Engine still overheats

[JakeGS]

How's it going guys? First time posting so if there's any comments about not enough information or me doing/saying something wrong don the afraid to let me know.

Now onto the beginning of the story,
I have a 2.0L non turbo and it over heats occasionally, it seems to mostly happen after a decent amount of time on the interstate (20 -30 minutes give or take) it usually gets to about half way between the average mark and the top, and typically stays there, I'm stumped on the problem because I've already bled the air out, I've drained flushed and put in new coolant, I've changed the thermostat (which I thought was the problem since it literally fell apart and I had to use a magnet to get it out and then scoop out the rest that's not magnetized with my hands ) replaced radiator cap and I just changed my oil today it didn't look as if the head was leaking coolant into the oil pan and the exhaust looks/smells normal, both fans I think are working normal ( if I'm right only the driver side fan stays on when it gets to avg temp and the passenger side only comes on due to over heating or if ac is on)
I don't think it's my radiator because my radiator looks fairly new, that only leaves my water pump. So do you guys think I should try anything else before going through with that whole big replacement?


And if I do replace my water pump what else should I go ahead and do? I'm guessing UDP and timing belt while I'm done there

Thanks in advance guys

 

[92AWDHX40]

Do a compression test and get the results the problem could be there, do that simple to do, and get back with results if its out of spec you need a head gasket. Water pump sure possible if its leaking on that side of the car. Do the obvious first.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I'm thinking water pump or the ECT sensor. But since this is similar to another post I was helping on last night, here's some more info: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/478349-overheating.html

Hope it helps.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Sound like its clogged alittle honestly. If you had to scoop out the thermostat what do you think the rest looks like! Have you tried a coolant pressure test yet? This will help verify it holds pressure and there's no small leak throwing things off! If your thermostat was that corroded I'm betting the water pump impellers and inside of the radiator look the same! When you drained the system did you flush it good with a hose? Like thru the block and radiator?

 

[JakeGS]

Thanks for the fast replies guys!
Yes I have flushed the entire system completely, and I haven't noticed any coolant loss, leaks, or wet spots on the ground.
A friend told me to take off the radiator cap and when the thermostat opens up gas it a little and the coolant should flow really we'll if not it's either the water pump or the radiator, so tomorrow I'm gonna go ahead and try that and also go ahead and bleed the air out again if I notice any pockets and I'll probably go ahead and get a compression test done even if it flows freely.

And thanks for the link, I actually already saw that before I posted this, his (from my experience) sounds more like a sensor problem or a pressure problem though since he says his gauge is moving irradically, usually if there's a problem it'll move slow and steadily not just jump.

 

[JakeGS]

Compression test turned out good, with cranking it 5 times it came out as :
1: 200
2: 190
3: 190
4: 190

And I believe it's sopose to be between 175-225 if I'm right

I went a head and took off the radiator to try to see if i could easily flush it before attempting the water pump job, although it did flow freely after I drained it I could shake it and still hear water, so of course I got a new one and so far so good!

Thanks for the help and input!

 

[19jdmdsm91]

Try a pressure test on the radiator. The clamps used on our cars take a dump after the years and you could get a small leak while driving. It happened to me 2 weeks ago. Did a rad pressure test and the pounds were dropping almost instantly with no coolant on the ground. I replaced the clamps that were leaking and then checked again to find it holding pressure. Good luck!

 

[DSM1G90]

When ever I see a DODGE setup where the T-stat is placed at a horizontal position I do this trick to eliminate, or at least reduce this issue. I learned this from many DODGE mechanics when the "K" cars came into being with that 2.2L motor.

It was a new design but a flawed design that Chrysler came out with and will never figure out why Chrysler kept this design in their motors.

My little trick to aid in burping the system is: on a new T-stat install, I drill a .050" hole in the flange if there is no jiggle valve and have that drilled hole at the 12:00 position. This aid in removing the blocked hot air under the t-stat and still allows the t-stat to remain functionable.

-DSM