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2G Car drivable not shifting

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Savage8960

Probationary Member
16
0
Aug 16, 2020
Maryland, Maryland
Hi I just brought a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.4L MFI SOHC 4cyl and I put on a new intake kit went to get tagged and on way home the car seemed like it is not shifting it’s not red lining I was doing 85-90MPH and only about 5-5.5 rpm I believe can’t remember right off but wasn’t red line (again).

I checked the transmission fluid and it’s like a light grey/ black not cloudy it’s translucent still have reverse, park, but won’t go into Low or 2 gear, it still is driving but just not shifting up or down shifting.

I read it’s in limp mode. Ican’t hook code reader to it connect has no power only has 92,000 original miles..

Any information about this issue is greatly appreciated... I can’t wait to get this fixed so I can have a 10sec car ...!!.!.!

Ok ok that was a joke I was reading a forum about some guy wanting a 10 sec car and still street worthy so I could not help myself to say that.... anyway...

Pls help and thanks in advance to my new DSM FAM...
 

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you really should fix your obd port so you can get a code out of it . that way it could give you and idea on where to start.
 
First off what are you doing driving close to 100mph in a car that you just got that you know nothing about? how do you know the ball joint isn't about to fall apart? you dont and if that were to break which they are known to do that would be practically a death sentence to you or a passenger or another person or family on the road when you lose control of that car, you need to think about more than yourself and not do stupid stuff like that, Im pretty sure your family or friends wouldn't like to have a funeral for you next week if they dont have to. As far as the problems, those transmissions sometimes strip splines out internally on some of the drums and it sounds like that could be a problem here. Your problem could be electrical, you need to pull codes as mentioned, if your tcu is working and there are multiple codes its probably a mechanical failure inside of the transmission.
 
First off what are you doing driving close to 100mph in a car that you just got that you know nothing about? how do you know the ball joint isn't about to fall apart? you dont and if that were to break which they are known to do that would be practically a death sentence to you or a passenger or another person or family on the road when you lose control of that car, you need to think about more than yourself and not do stupid stuff like that, Im pretty sure your family or friends wouldn't like to have a funeral for you next week if they dont have to. As far as the problems, those transmissions sometimes strip splines out internally on some of the drums and it sounds like that could be a problem here. Your problem could be electrical, you need to pull codes as mentioned, if your tcu is working and there are multiple codes its probably a mechanical failure inside of the transmission.


Cool thanks for that information and for the first part was un called for I was not in public roadways no passengers and I would not have done t to cause harm to anyone I was on a private air strip of a friend’s..so the part where u implied I was being selfish and thinking “ STUPID “ I wasn’t Not that much of a dimwit LOL...

Now that that part is over may I ask if you knw how I could pull codes if obd port is not working after I replaced fuses and still nothing?? I knw I need the codes but can’t seem to get them I am going to try again tomorrow but any info helps
 
Well the codes are pulled from the TCU, a blown fuse isn't going to stop you from being able to read a code unless the TCU isn't getting power to it from a fuse issue.

If that blew there is a reason, so have you confirmed that the TCU is getting power and ground?

That would be the first place to start, all you need to do is to look at the wiring schematic and see which pins on the TCU connector supply power and ground and make sure that those are there. Then if they are we can then find out why there is no output to the port to read codes from it, you might just have a bad ecu or power issue.

When you said that the fluid was grey, that is usually a sign of hard part damage, but let's start at the beginning with power and ground. Also don't drive like an idiot on airstrips either, a plane could hit you.

What part of Maryland? I'm coming for H2o!
 
Well the codes are pulled from the TCU, a blown fuse isn't going to stop you from being able to read a code unless the TCU isn't getting power to it from a fuse issue.

If that blew there is a reason, so have you confirmed that the TCU is getting power and ground?

That would be the first place to start, all you need to do is to look at the wiring schematic and see which pins on the TCU connector supply power and ground and make sure that those are there. Then if they are we can then find out why there is no output to the port to read codes from it, you might just have a bad ecu or power issue.

When you said that the fluid was grey, that is usually a sign of hard part damage, but let's start at the beginning with power and ground. Also don't drive like an idiot on airstrips either, a plane could hit you.
Copy that I'll get on that first thing in the morning and I am in Salisbury MD about 35-40 mins from ocean city MD...

What part of Maryland? I'm coming for H2o!
O it’s that time of year again I forgot all about that are u going to be in ur GSM clips?
 
Very familiar with Salisbury, that's where the WalMart is, and the Home Depot etc. I'm starting to know that place like I know Norwalk, the last few years I have gone there a few times a year, usually once in the summer for a few days and then in Sep for H2o. I don't take the DSM, its too much to babysit it, etc.
 
O it’s that time of year again I forgot all about that are u going to be in ur GSM clips?
Very familiar with Salisbury, that's where the WalMart is, and the Home Depot etc. I'm starting to know that place like I know Norwalk, the last few years I have gone there a few times a year, usually once in the summer for a few days and then in Sep for H2o. I don't take the DSM, its too much to babysit it, etc.
cool and yea I’m in that area not to far from the Wally World
 
As a "TEST", Disconnect the battery for a while, reconmect and start and test for 1st gear. Your transmission computer is in "limp" mode as there is something confusing tbe computer. Mine was the VSS. It can be a # of things, like pulse generators, dirty solenoids, capacitor in the computer.
I got tired of trying to fix the factory transmission computer so I run a Smartshift 100.1 computer to control my transmission now. Its like LINK for the transmission.
 
Where is the VSS location at I checked the one on this that is not it

As a "TEST", Disconnect the battery for a while, reconmect and start and test for 1st gear. Your transmission computer is in "limp" mode as there is something confusing tbe computer. Mine was the VSS. It can be a # of things, like pulse generators, dirty solenoids, capacitor in the computer.
I got tired of trying to fix the factory transmission computer so I run a Smartshift 100.1 computer to control my transmission now. Its like LINK for the transmission.
Also how did you go about that?

The person I got the DSM from is getting a transmission but I am going to change VSS and take to get codes pulled today hopefully
 
"Sometimes" when you unhook the battery it will reset the transmission computer (for a while).
In my case, I just wired in a new MODERN computer. :)
http://forcedfour.com/smart100_1.htm
 
"Sometimes" when you unhook the battery it will reset the transmission computer (for a while).
In my case, I just wired in a new MODERN computer. :)

Do you knw where the VSS location is I was told on top left but that’s not correct spot I want to put this part on to see if that changes anything
 
I'm not very familiar with the 2g models but thought they were right where the speedometer cable hooks up on the transmission.
My 1g is in the dash, built into the speedometer via a reed switch and to my knowledge isn't serviceable other than swapping my dash or speedometer out. Yours is supposed to be much better and I thought it was right on the trans.
 
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this is the obd port the white one was hooked to the back of the black one on a clip I don’t know how to get it to work to pull codes I checked all fuses and The code reader works in my other vehicle not getting any power from this HELP PLS!!!!!?!?!
 

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As a "TEST", Disconnect the battery for a while, reconmect and start and test for 1st gear. Your transmission computer is in "limp" mode as there is something confusing tbe computer. Mine was the VSS. It can be a # of things, like pulse generators, dirty solenoids, capacitor in the computer.
I got tired of trying to fix the factory transmission computer so I run a Smartshift 100.1 computer to control my transmission now. Its like LINK for the transmission.
Also so did u fix the problem or did u not find out since it didn’t come out of limp mode
 
I couldn't "fix" the VSS signal that was throwing it i to LIMP mode so I bought the SmartShift and have it "ignore" limp mode which fixed it.
It also sounds like you need a fluid (ATF+4) and filter change.
 
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I couldn't "fix" the VSS signal that was throwing it i to LIMP mode so I bought the SmartShift and have it "ignore" limp mode which fixed it.
It also sounds like you need a fluid (ATF+4) and filter change.

yes i just order that yesterday from auto zone and can u send me the info and the correct smart shift and the info u have to put in to order so I can order that today
 

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