2G Car not shifting into reverse or drive.

[BooStairs]

1995 eagle talon FWD

Was coming to a stop off of the highway and the car downshifted and started bouncing between neutral and 3rd but never went down to 2nd or 1st.
It went into limp mode and stayed in 3rd as i stopped, so I took it to a nearby parking lot to check fluid level for burnt smell or discoloration (there wasn't anything out of the ordinary but it was overfilled a bit).

tried putting it in gear, nothing without pressing the gas a small bit and it'll jerk into gear and then immediately jerk back to neutral. tried putting it in reverse, still nothing.
unplugged the TCU to force limp mode and it shifted to 3rd when in drive with no drivability issues but still had no reverse.

I checked for tcu codes when I got home and no codes (with led and backprobing the obd2 connector pin 4 & 6).
I had a pretty cheap multimeter hooked up to it earlier to check for codes but it wasnt very accurate. it looked like it showed tcu code 11 and 12 but with the LED it showed no codes with the constant blinking

tried some other things like putting it directly into low. it jerked the car forward twice before it managed to get into 1st. I didn't want to risk anything so I moved it forward like 10 ft to test for 1st and heard a weird higher pitched grind or belt noise when I stopped pressing the gas a bit and slowed it to a stop.

tried putting it directly in 2nd, nothing happened (neutral like reverse)

I'm a bit at a loss for what to do right now. especially with this coming out of nowhere with no other outstanding issues like a loud grinding noise, pop, or jerk when i was slowing down off the highway. If you have any suggestions for diagnosing, please lmk


I'm going to attach some videos and hopefully it'll help with helping find the issue.

Checking for TCU codes

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Noise under the car when I put it in drive

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Jerking twice before shifting into 1st gear when in low

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cheap af Multimeter voltage reading from obd2

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[DogWhistle]

The P R N D commands are dictated by the shift cable. It seems like perhaps your adjustment nut, on top of the transmission, slipped and the transmission thinks its between gears.

Also, on a DSM trans, the proper fluid level reading is only achieved when the trans is in Neutral, not Park.

Check both of these items again and see if they help.

 

[BooStairs]

The P R N D commands are dictated by the shift cable. It seems like perhaps your adjustment nut, on top of the transmission, slipped and the transmission thinks its between gears.

Also, on a DSM trans, the proper fluid level reading is only achieved when the trans is in Neutral, not Park.

Check both of these items again and see if they help.

fluid level is a bit overfilled and an light maroon color instead of bright red. so i'll switch the fluid

the shift bracket is in two pieces with a snapped bolt, i wouldnt even try welding it back together. Do you know of the part number of this?

need a new motor mount, tranny mount, and shift bracket in total. the tranny cooler hoses are leaking a bit so those need to be swapped out.

 

[DogWhistle]

At least you're closer to getting the sources located. Good job finding the problems.

If you contact Stevie Miller or Performance Part Out, they will have a used bracket for you, and you won't even have to know the part number.

Their contact info isn't handy, but maybe some other members might have it.

 

[BooStairs]

At least you're closer to getting the sources located. Good job finding the problems.

If you contact Stevie Miller or Performance Part Out, they will have a used bracket for you, and you won't even have to know the part number.

Their contact info isn't handy, but maybe some other members might have it.

I live near Christian A., added him on FB a bit ago and he sold me a bracket today. just picked it up, we’ll see if this will fix the issue.

 

[BooStairs]

At least you're closer to getting the sources located. Good job finding the problems.

If you contact Stevie Miller or Performance Part Out, they will have a used bracket for you, and you won't even have to know the part number.

Their contact info isn't handy, but maybe some other members might have it.

looks like i saw wrong, the bracket is fully intact. just took it out and cleaned it up. this adjustment but you’re talking about, is it on top of the lever for the shift cable?

 

[BooStairs]

At least you're closer to getting the sources located. Good job finding the problems.

If you contact Stevie Miller or Performance Part Out, they will have a used bracket for you, and you won't even have to know the part number.

Their contact info isn't handy, but maybe some other members might have it.

actually. am i missing something here? or is it supposed to be detached… it’s the shift lever

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[DogWhistle]

Can you zoom out on that picture when you take it again? The shifter “arm” bolts to a pivoting shaft on the transmission, and also has a second bolt to pinch the end of the shifter cable.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Isn't there an electrical switch mounted to the shift tower? My 1gb has one under the shifter linkage, on top of the shift select lever on the transmission.
I couldn't tell from the picture if it had one or not. It is circled in red in the picture I posted. Surely it does have it, but I couldn't see enough of the trans in your picture.

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[BooStairs]

Can you zoom out on that picture when you take it again? The shifter “arm” bolts to a pivoting shaft on the transmission, and also has a second bolt to pinch the end of the shifter cable.

okay, also is this where it’s supposed to be when in park? or should it line up with that far dot?

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[DogWhistle]

If I recall correctly, the “holes” line up in Neutral. Car not running / parking brake set / place selector in Neutral. Loosen the shift cable bolt and manually move the transmission lever to align the holes. Make sure the floor shifter is still in the Neutral position, then, retighten the shifting cable nut and test to make sure the car can easily access all of the gear positions.

Important: Test the Park position to make sure the floor shifter goes solidly into Park when moved into Park.

 

[BooStairs]

If I recall correctly, the “holes” line up in Neutral. Car not running / parking brake set / place selector in Neutral. Loosen the shift cable bolt and manually move the transmission lever to align the holes. Make sure the floor shifter is still in the Neutral position, then, retighten the shifting cable nut and test to make sure the car can easily access all of the gear positions.

Important: Test the Park position to make sure the floor shifter goes solidly into Park when moved into Park.

yes, did this and adjusted it to the correct place in neutral and tested the park (it works)

I think my clutch has to be burnt or in pieces especially with my shift cable now adjusted properly.
my fluids are very overfilled to the top of the hot section on the dipstick but when the car is on and in neutral it's filled like 3-4 inches on the wire above the plastic bit. maybe I got debris in the pan from the burnt clutch or losing pressure some other way, but I can't think of another reason why my reverse would stay neutral and my 1st/drive has trouble engaging. it cant be a bad pump if it goes into 3rd at full line pressure when in limp mode


I can put it into low and it'll go into gear with a pretty big jerk like as if i was going into 3rd with the tcu unplugged.

I'm going to do a line pressure test and maybe pull the pan tomorrow when I can get it on the lift, do you know of the procedure and specifications for the line pressure test? because i cant find it on alldata.

image is of fluid on the dipstick going all the way to the edge of the paper on the stick.
the video is the noise when in drive, I'm not particularly sure what it is but it's a bit loud.

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[BooStairs]

Isn't there an electrical switch mounted to the shift tower? My 1gb has one under the shifter linkage, on top of the shift select lever on the transmission.
I couldn't tell from the picture if it had one or not. It is circled in red in the picture I posted. Surely it does have it, but I couldn't see enough of the trans in your picture.

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yes it does, it's right next to the lever and the dipstick. same place in that image

 

[DogWhistle]

yes, did this and adjusted it to the correct place in neutral and tested the park (it works)

I think my clutch has to be burnt or in pieces especially with my shift cable now adjusted properly.
my fluids are very overfilled to the top of the hot section on the dipstick but when the car is on and in neutral it's filled like 3-4 inches on the wire above the plastic bit. maybe I got debris in the pan from the burnt clutch or losing pressure some other way, but I can't think of another reason why my reverse would stay neutral and my 1st/drive has trouble engaging. it cant be a bad pump if it goes into 3rd at full line pressure when in limp mode


I can put it into low and it'll go into gear with a pretty big jerk like as if i was going into 3rd with the tcu unplugged.

I'm going to do a line pressure test and maybe pull the pan tomorrow when I can get it on the lift, do you know of the procedure and specifications for the line pressure test? because i cant find it on alldata.

image is of fluid on the dipstick going all the way to the edge of the paper on the stick.
the video is the noise when in drive, I'm not particularly sure what it is but it's a bit loud.

There are still a few mechanical things you need to do before jumping into measuring line pressure. Line pressure on the DSM auto requires a specific threaded fitting and knowledge of the multiple ports needing to be accessed in order to get an accurate picture of what's happening.

Yes, drop the pan and examine it for debris. You might also want to take off the end cover and check the condition of the end clutches -- a known factory weak spot in these transmissions -- and consider replacing those.

The line pressure and gear changes are handled by a series of four servos. Most times, owners will replace those as they lose their responsiveness over time. Since they are all part of the same harness inside the transmission, they are most often replaced as a set.

Finally, change the filter and refill it with new fluid to the correct level.

If there are still problems, you may be able to pick up some pointers from other members here about how to check the condition of the torque converter. You can hope the previous owner didn't perform a lot of power launches.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

There are still a few mechanical things you need to do before jumping into measuring line pressure. Line pressure on the DSM auto requires a specific threaded fitting and knowledge of the multiple ports needing to be accessed in order to get an accurate picture of what's happening.

This is so true. Even DTR had to make his own fittings for his trans dyno since the thread pitch and fittings are very unique. I think he told me that he had to use the plugs out of a salvage trans, and drill them out and put tubing on them to test his transmissions.

 

[BooStairs]

There are still a few mechanical things you need to do before jumping into measuring line pressure. Line pressure on the DSM auto requires a specific threaded fitting and knowledge of the multiple ports needing to be accessed in order to get an accurate picture of what's happening.

Yes, drop the pan and examine it for debris. You might also want to take off the end cover and check the condition of the end clutches -- a known factory weak spot in these transmissions -- and consider replacing those.

The line pressure and gear changes are handled by a series of four servos. Most times, owners will replace those as they lose their responsiveness over time. Since they are all part of the same harness inside the transmission, they are most often replaced as a set.

Finally, change the filter and refill it with new fluid to the correct level.

If there are still problems, you may be able to pick up some pointers from other members here about how to check the condition of the torque converter. You can hope the previous owner didn't perform a lot of power launches.

alright for sure, so I should I go through and test resistance at those servos while I'm at it? any suggestions for trans oil or just go classic valvoline atf?

 

[BooStairs]

This is so true. Even DTR had to make his own fittings for his trans dyno since the thread pitch and fittings are very unique. I think he told me that he had to use the plugs out of a salvage trans, and drill them out and put tubing on them to test his transmissions.

i looked up the special part numbers of the adapter and the specific gauge, both go for $100+

 

[DogWhistle]

alright for sure, so I should I go through and test resistance at those servos while I'm at it? any suggestions for trans oil or just go classic valvoline atf?

Don't bother resistance testing the servos since they will undoubtedly perform differently working against hydraulic pressure. Sometimes it's the wire harness that has pinches. Just replace them all.

You can use the Valvoline ATF as long as it is the ATF+4 formula.

 

[BooStairs]

Don't bother resistance testing the servos since they will undoubtedly perform differently working against hydraulic pressure. Sometimes it's the wire harness that has pinches. Just replace them all.

You can use the Valvoline ATF as long as it is the ATF+4 formula.

alright, can i get the part numbers for these or can i easily find them on something like rockauto?

 

[DogWhistle]

alright, can i get the part numbers for these or can i easily find them on something like rockauto?

Sorry, we don't have the part numbers. @dustyboner, or others may be able to help you track those down.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I don't want to have this thread go back and forth, but when I picked up my trans at Darren's shop, I asked him what fluid he recommended and he straight out said DEXTRON III because it had more grip to the fluid than the newer fluids, and he said that is what you want with these. I did use Dextron III and the trans works and feels GREAT! I figured he would know since he is in the business of rebuilding them for us all.

 

[BooStairs]

Sorry, we don't have the part numbers. @dustyboner, or others may be able to help you track those down.

alright, bec i saw "shift solenoids" which i would assume is what you're talking about. but no servos.

 

[DogWhistle]

ask

alright, bec i saw "shift solenoids" which i would assume is what you're talking about. but no servos.

Yes.

 

[enriquez2000]

I don't want to have this thread go back and forth, but when I picked up my trans at Darren's shop, I asked him what fluid he recommended and he straight out said DEXTRON III because it had more grip to the fluid than the newer fluids, and he said that is what you want with these. I did use Dextron III and the trans works and feels GREAT! I figured he would know since he is in the business of rebuilding them for us all.

John at Ipt says regular old atf+ IV

Kiggly says John Deere Hy-Gard universal
tractor fluid and Redline Racing ATF

Ive stuck with Johns recommendations as he is one of our trans gurus but whatever keeps your trans alive.. stick with it!

As for the issue here. Being this is a 95 you should be able to hook up a quality reader(snap on works well) to OBD port and verify the electronic gear selector is telling the car to shift through PRND.

After that pull the pan and look for shrapnel. Once youre there you might as well change solenoids if they have never been done.

Hoping for the best for you!

 

[motomattx]

You likely have hard parts failures, more likely stripped out splines in one or more of the clutch hubs, the 2g auto has an annoying feature (at least on my Spyder) whereas the car will downshift when you tap the brake more than one time, this forced downshift will happen even at fairly high road speeds, Mitsubishi says this is done to aid breaking, I don't like it one bit and I am sure that it is one of the reasons for these cars stripping splines in the hard parts in the transmissions, its a common problem on the Dsm transmission, they all use the same basket and some of them are not hardened enough to withstand hard downshifts or upshifts over and over, that and rocking the car in snow or mud if its stuck tears those splines up and last time I had to replace that part Mitsubishi had no new ones in the country and I ended up calling a transmission shop and finding a good used one to install.