1G Car diying when breaking after acceleration

[Moovingon1GEclipse]

I just did timing belt change, with water pump, belts pulleys, etc, but now the car sometimes dies.

Let's say I accelerate to 4k rpm in third gear and press de breaks and clutch. The car dies if I brake to hard or take the foot of the gas super fast.

It had happen once or twice before the timing belt change but now happens every time I drive it instead of every month or so. It sat for 2 weeks outside, can that have any impact on it?

I'm thinking that may be timing belt being off by 1 tooth or something like that. idle it's weird, it doesn't go up to 1.5k and slowly come to 750+/- when it starts it kinda wobbles, i have to give it gas for a while to keep it at 1.5k/1k then slowly decompress the gas after a bit and it stays normal and it's stays like that without go up and down and if it does it's barely. (previously the idle was not as bad but it was pretty similar if I didn't touched it for a few days )

My issue is the dying of the car, since when it dies the steering becomes pretty heavy and my biggest problem is this happening in a roundabout or in a intersection.

I'm taking it to a mechanic the next Monday but the problem is that's a 45min drive and I dunno if I wanna push it that much ...

 

[Mech Addict]

Sounds more like a throttle body issue. Did you do the timing belt, or your mechanic?

 

[Moovingon1GEclipse]

Sounds more like a throttle body issue. Did you do the timing belt, or your mechanic?

I did it myself.

Yeah to me makes no sense being the timing belt, even if it was one tooth off, i don't think this would happen.

I'm thinking idle control valve, throttle body, something to do with the air system.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Sounds like idle surge to me as well. A few thing I would check
-Make sure idle switch on throttle body is working
-Check resistance across ISC coils
-Check for vacuum leaks
-Check mechanical & base timing

 

[CrackedDSM]

You’re not venting the blow off valve to the atmosphere are you? It sounds like symptoms of an unrecirculated blow off valve. Especially it dying after a pull or having to feather the throttle/gas to keep it alive.

 

[AWD-Tony]

You’re not venting the blow off valve to the atmosphere are you? It sounds like symptoms of an unrecirculated blow off valve. Especially it dying after a pull or having to feather the throttle/gas to keep it alive.

I think he's NA 4g.

@Moovingon1GEclipse please fill out your profile

 

[pauleyman]

I just did timming belt change, with water pump, belts pullyes etc ... but now the car sometimes dies ...
Let's say I accelerate to 4k rpm in third gear and press de breaks and clutch. The car dies if I brake to hard or take the foot of the gas super fast ...
It had happen once or twice before the timming belt change but now happens everytime I drive it instead of every 1month or so ... it sat for 2 weeks outside, can that have any impact on it? I'm thinking that may be timming belt of by 1 teeth or something like that ... idle it's weird ... it doesn't go up to 1.5k and slowly come to 750+/- when it starts it kinda wobbles, i have to give it gas for a while to keep it at 1.5k/1k then slowly decompress the gas after a bit and it stays normal and it's stays like that without go up and down and if it does it's barely. ( previously the idle was not as bad but it was pretty similar if I didn't touched it for a few days ) but my issue is the dying of the car .... since when it dies the steering becomes pretty heavy and my biggest problem is this happening in a roundabout or in a intersection. I'm taking it to a mechanic the next Monday but the problem is that's a 45mint drive and I dunno if I wanna push it that much ...

If the car didn't run exactly the same after the timing belt change then you definately didn't do something correctly. Go back and check mechanical timing. There isn't too much you have to unplug on a 1g so it's doubtful you did something wrong wiring during the job.
Check this first and get back with us. You sound unsure if you got it right. You do know how to check it properly? If not we can explain.

 

[pauleyman]

Please fill out a profile.

 

[steve]

I think he's NA 4g.

Euro 1G

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/car-just-dies-after-working-completly-fine.539858

 

[waltah]

I just did timing belt change, with water pump, belts pulleys, etc, but now the car sometimes dies.

Let's say I accelerate to 4k rpm in third gear and press de breaks and clutch. The car dies if I brake to hard or take the foot of the gas super fast
... it doesn't go up to 1.5k and slowly come to 750+/- when it starts it kinda wobbles, i have to give it gas for a while to keep it at 1.5k/1k then slowly decompress the gas after a bit and it stays normal and it's stays like that without go up and down and if it does it's barely. (previously the idle was not as bad but it was pretty similar if I didn't touched it for a few days )

These are the classic signs of the closed throttle position switch not doing its job.

When your foot comes off the accelerator or when you start the car (foot off) the PCM should know that it's in control of the RPM. On starting it'll give you enough fast idle RPM to keep it running on a cold day until the car warms up, then it'll give you the proper 750 (or whatever) RPM. When you take your foot off while cruising the PCM controls the RPM so the car doesn't die.

It can only do that if the switch works. If it doesn't you get the symptoms you've got. That's where I'd look first. Could be the adjustment, could be a bad switch, could be a wiring problem ...

 

[Moovingon1GEclipse]

I think he's NA 4g.

@Moovingon1GEclipse please fill out your profile

Yeah it's NA just put it in now thank you

 

[Moovingon1GEclipse]

If the car didn't run exactly the same after the timing belt change then you definately didn't do something correctly. Go back and check mechanical timing. There isn't too much you have to unplug on a 1g so it's doubtful you did something wrong wiring during the job.
Check this first and get back with us. You sound unsure if you got it right. You do know how to check it properly? If not we can explain.

Yeah all the timing marks were correct and i even sent photos and videos to a person who rebuilt a 4g63, exactly same year as mine and told me everything is fine marks wise etc, even oil pump was correct with the rotating back and forward method to rock into the mark turned the engine before starting and the timing marks were all spot on.

And it already had symptoms before the timing belt change

 

[Moovingon1GEclipse]

These are the classic signs of the closed throttle position switch not doing its job.

When your foot comes off the accelerator or when you start the car (foot off) the PCM should know that it's in control of the RPM. On starting it'll give you enough fast idle RPM to keep it running on a cold day until the car warms up, then it'll give you the proper 750 (or whatever) RPM. When you take your foot off while cruising the PCM controls the RPM so the car doesn't die.

It can only do that if the switch works. If it doesn't you get the symptoms you've got. That's where I'd look first. Could be the adjustment, could be a bad switch, could be a wiring problem ...

Yeah I had the same idea. My feeling from within tells me that's it's something related to air system... or idle air control valve, throttle body something like that. Maybe an idle surge or something like that

Sorry the late replies been really busy, will let it at the shop tomorrow cause right now I work 10h day 1 day off and no garage, so I can't really do it currently and will let it at the hands of someone trust worthy (I hope)