Car cutting back

[Rockyp]

I've seen similar posts, but all either have no answer or problems (such as turning left) that don't pertain to me.
This weekend i changed all of my Vacuum lines and replaced my 2G bov with a 1G. I know i have oil in my intake pipes because when i spool the turbo too high, the UICP blows off the coupler. I'm taking care of that this weekend. For now i'm laying off the acceleration (reaching about 6-7psi). when i hold the car at about 52-57MPH, it feels like the car loses HP, not electrical power. It's not a misfire and i'm not catching a light. I'm running pump gas and i hear the fuel pump running. I checked the MAF for any bent pins after i removed it this weekend. It still seems to be an intake or fuel problem, so not really my specialty. Also, i changed the plugs and wires last week, all NGK. Any ideas?

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

I would get the coupler fixed and do a boost leak test. Maybe do a fuel filter too, just to rule that out. Good luck.

 

[Rockyp]

What's the best way to do a fuel filter? I read about leaving the old on and mounting a new one a few inches higher and routing a 6an line. i also heard to just take it to a mechanic. one sounds best for time, the other best for money. I guess this is only a 2G problem, i'm not sure what to do. how hard would it be to bypass an old filter and where would i run it? i know nothing about fuel systems in this car yet. i'm reading as much as i can. for some reason those wonderful picture step by step instructions on sites don't look quite the same once i start.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Bite the bullet and change the filter correctly. Remove your battery and UICP and get to work with some vise grips and rust breaking spray like WD-40 or PB Blaster.

The only reason you should be looking for a reason to bypass the current fuel filter besides being lazy and not wanting to deal with it is if you are about to perform a complete Fuel System upgrade. Besides that, change the fuel filter so you can rule that out.

 

[Rockyp]

Will do. I'll get some liquid wrench today. also, i played with it a little this morning and found it only surges while maintaining speed going uphill. So, when i'm going up hill and i lightly press the throttle to maintain 55mph, it surges. It's not a slight surge either, it's like being on a track and running through patches of deep snow. could the BOV i just changed be causing an issue? i'm using a 2g-1g adapter and it has a t bolt clamp with rtv spread around the adapter to "fill in" whatever gaps may be present. From what i hear about boost leaks, it would cause a slight jerk, but it would be present while accelerating at all times. with a mostly stock 2G, what's a decent logging setup. i have windows 7, and it looks like the EVOScan with USB on dsmchips.com is compatible with Vista and below. And if EVOScan is a good setup and i have a 99 GSX, do i have to do any upgrades to my ECU like a re-flash. I read up on it, but can't quite figure out if it'll be a pulg-n-play thing or if i'll have more to do before it'll work properly.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Do a boost leak test with soapy water. That's the real way to get rid of any 'gaps.'

As far as a logger setup, I've not had much luck with anything including ECMlink because it seems like the 95Eprom ECU is garbage. As far you you go, though, with your spiffy flashable ECU, Evoscan will be a plug-N-Play sort of thing. I have 2 cables if you need 1. Evoscan, itself, I believe I also have my old account stuff that another helpful member from these forums lended to me when they stopped using it.

 

[Rockyp]

I just need something to log what's going on right now. Don't really need ecmlink at this point in my mods, i'm just trying to come up with more data that might help me out. I was checking out EVOScan's site and it's all about evos and subis. The cable i think i need is the 1.3D $57 cable for logging, but if i grab the more expensive cable 1.3R $97 could i tune my car as well and have quicker datalogging speeds? It would be better to spend the extra $40 now instead of $97 later if that's the case. I don't know if i'm reading this chart correct.

Deciding on what cable you need.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

Knock!!

 

[Rockyp]

If it was knock, i'd hear it before it gets corrected. I'm pretty sure the fuel filter's getting clogged. It has to be a fuel/air problem.

 

[dsmrollerz90]

You dont hear knock. I'm not talking about knocking rods, I'm talking about air/fuel ratios not cumbusting. I used to feel the same thing, get a FMIC and switch to e85 and you can kiss knock goodbye!!!

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

........Or Properly tune your car and find a way to monitor Knock, as he's on the road to doing by looking into Logging applications...

 

[Rockyp]

Now it sounds like sand is running through the engine at idle (imagine rusted pistons in a rusted block). Really starting to piss me off. I may try to put the last spark plugs/wire set back on to t/s. There were no issues before changing plugs, wires, vacuum lines, pcv, and bov. If this is a bad case of knock, how bad is it to drive? It's my daily driver and I'm in the military.

You dont hear knock. I'm not talking about knocking rods, I'm talking about air/fuel ratios not cumbusting. I used to feel the same thing, get a FMIC and switch to e85 and you can kiss knock goodbye!!!

There are no E85 stations in alaska. kinda pointless. i'm following buschur racing's upgrade path. maintenance first! that's what got me in this situation.

UPDATE: We took apart all the intercooler pipes and applies hairspray and new t bolt clamps. Checked the turbo for play and there was none, although the blades have seen better days. must have been a boost leak problem because we found many problems with coupler connections. Ran like a champ this morning. Still changing the fuel filter this weekend just for the hell of it. Thanks for all the help.