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1G Cant get my tps lower then 4.03 volts

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I still cant get my tps lower then 4.03volts.. if i move it clockwise it gos to 4.86volts. And all the way to left it will only go down to 4.03.. how do i get it .63?? The chiltons book says have it between .48 and .52. Thats half a volt right?? I cant get it lower then 4 volts.. why?? Beeen messing with it for over 5 hours. And no luck
 
Are you checking it with a closed throttle or wide open throttle? Wide open throttle will give you around a 4.8 reading and you should set it closed. The .63 is for people with ECMLink otherwise factory suggests .48-.52v.
 
When its closed it reads 4.86 n wide open Brings it to like .3...

I messed with that damn thing for over 5 hours n got no where!!
Im so frustrated ..these are my test leads i made..

I was checking with my volt meter off the yellow which is signal back to the ecu and black ground. With the key to the on position and the engine not running i was getting 4.86ish. If i moved the TPS counter-clockwise the lowest it would go is 4.03.

I double checked everything like 10times, smoked a million cigs. idk man..
thanks for your help tho.. im thinkin mabe my MAF might have went out because that is the only other thing i touched when i took TB off and i cleaned the crusted coolant stuck on it with sensor cleaner..

Trying not to touch the wire in the center.. i think i can check continuity on that right?
 

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Well what's the rest of the story? Why are you even doing this test? Did you replace something? Did you set your throttle cable? Did you then set the idle position switch? If you haven't, then read the link I sent you.

My guess is you didn't set the throttle cable correctly or the IPS is screwed in way too far. Or...you reinstalled the tps wrong.
 
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Well what's the rest of the story.

The reason im doing this ... the car was running fine .. i didnt drive it much. Just started it every other week or so.. so one day i started it. Ran NORMAL and when i gave it gas the throttle stuck open. So i looked in the throttle body and it was gunked up with dried white coolant.. The fiav gasket that goes between the top and bottom of the throttle body went bad and from sitting and gummed the throttle plate and shaft up.. soo i unplugged everything and took the throttle body off.. i forgot to mark where the TPS was like a idiot and i removed that and the FIAV and O_ring as all the ports and every was clogged with the dried coolant. Also i found a small piece of metal over the port for the FIAV which the previous owner did for reasons idk.. so i removed the metal after i read it was just to stop the high idle at warm up.. but when i put everything back together the idle was at like 2700 and didnt sound right. So i took it all back apart and put the metal piece back in.. now the idle is at 1400/1500rpms and runs real choppy like.. the thing i dont get is it ran great with all the shit stuck in it except for getting stuck open... and now that its clean it runs like crap..............

Also i removed that metal piece cause i wanted it back stock. I didnt think it would screw me up.. also think i need to do a vacuum test.. do you know what size the outlet is on a stock turbo?? I didnt have a tape measure with me today.
 
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I just dont see why the TPS could be 4v or even 1v for that matter if the throttle plate was closed and the TPS is somewhere in the middle of its adjustment it should be close to .5-.6v not 4v unless the TPS is bad and sending voltage like the throttle plate is open.

What does the voltage say when you have it hooked up and you open the throttle plate to wide open?
 
What does the voltage say when you have it hooked up and you open the throttle plate to wide open?

.33 is like its backwords

.33 WIDE OPEN...……. AND anywhere from 4.86 all the way clockwise and if I put it all the way counter clockwise its like 4.03...

ughhhhh!!!! I wish you where in JERSEY so I could show you,, its something stupid
 
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.33v wide open? Thats a problem. Seems like it wasnt put back on properly so that it reads wide open when its closed and closed when its wide open, the ECU isnt getting the right readings so you are seeing a bad idle. The of the TPS is to give the ECU different voltage signals based on how much the throttle plate is opened. Though I thought the IPS is supposed to tell the ECU that the plate is closed but I dont know how the different readings would impact the ECU and what it does to the idle speed control motor.

Either way its giving the voltage backwards and it shouldnt be so its a problem. I have an S90 and a 2g tps sitting off the car that I can take pictures of and post on here tomorrow after work so you can check if you installed it right. I just dont see how it could be getting a 4.8v closed and .33v wide open. That is just completely strange.

Alright. I just had to go get the TPS and my S90. So when installing it you can do it 2 ways depending on which way you want the plug to face. But most common is that the plug is straight up when you slide it onto the throttle body, and then you turn it clockwise about 80 degrees or so. Im just trying to figure out how the TPS can be wide open but the throttle body cant but you can still open go to wide open throttle.
 
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Alright. I just had to go get the TPS and my S90.

Yea take a picture tomorrow please.
There is no slack on the plug to have it any other way then how i have it.
i read the same lines over n over outta the chiltons book today.. i checked all my connections and like i said if i move it counter clock wise all the way the lowest it will go in 4.03v and clockwise 4.86ish.. And depending where i set that when i open the throttle all the way it will go to .32ish..

My car is like 5 mins from my place. Im trying to get it running right so i can insure hèr and drive the beast
 
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It doesnt look like it can be installed backwards because if the TPS is turned to read 4.8v the throttle body wont open, or if it is installed wrong the throttle plate wont open, at least from my looking over of things. Unless you have the jumpers backwards or something?

So I wrote down the pin number, wire color and what it does.

1g TPS
1- Green/Red (+5v Sensor Power)
2- Green/White (TPS Output Volage)
3- NC (no connection)
4- Green/Black (Ground)
(Thanks to Steve's Post in another thread)

Depending on how you are checking it since you have to get to the bottom bolt to be able to move the TPS around, if you move the fuel rail then you can just probe the connector itself. Positive going to where the green and white wire is and negative going to the green and black wire. Just dont cram the probes into the connector. They should just slide in pretty well with no major binding and then check it.

If you are taking the throttle body off then you will have to use jumper wires.

I just probe the connector but I am able to since I am using a 2g connector which comes with extra wire. I just slide by throttle body on the studs a little bit test and adjust it and bolt the throttle body back.
 
It doesnt look like it can be installed backwards because if the TPS is turned to read 4.8v the throttle body wont open, or if it is installed wrong the throttle plate wont open, at least from my looking over of things. Unless you have the jumpers backwards or something?

So I wrote down the pin number, wire color and what it does.

1g TPS
1- Green/Red (+5v Sensor Power)
2- Green/White (TPS Output Volage)
3- NC (no connection)
4- Green/Black (Ground)
(Thanks to Steve's Post in another thread)

Depending on how you are checking it since you have to get to the bottom bolt to be able to move the TPS around, if you move the fuel rail then you can just probe the connector itself. Positive going to where the green and white wire is and negative going to the green and black wire. Just dont cram the probes into the connector. They should just slide in pretty well with no major binding and then check it.

If you are taking the throttle body off then you will have to use jumper wires.

I just probe the connector but I am able to since I am using a 2g connector which comes with extra wire. I just slide by throttle body on the studs a little bit test and adjust it and bolt the throttle body back.
I check the wires.. and i have 4.8ish going to the TPS.. i take the throttle bodie off and use my test leads n aligator clips to test it..picture at bottom.. i even soldered them and keep them straight. The weird thing is i just stopped over at my car to get the turbo inlet size to i can make a boost leak check. And i found out that threw my SUPER AFC theres a option for sensor check. And im almost positive the third one is the tps. Cause its within the. 5 range when moved and i got it to .49 .50v and when i put the pedal to the floor it gos to 4.79ish.. so i think i got that set right. Idk why i cant get them numbers when im checking it under the hood tho?..confusing
 

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I def think i have a vacuum leak tho cause my boost/vacuum gauge sits at 10 on the vacuum side.. and it its usualy always around 15.

I just received this in the mail, found it on amazon. Pretty cool.
 

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I for the life of me messed with trying to put the tps on the throttle body to have it work like the voltage was describing and the only way I could get it is if the throttle plate was about half way open. How the tps is designed means that it can only open one way which is with the throttle plate opening.

Maybe some wires were crossed or something. But I'll look at my tps that I know is at .5v and take a picture so you can compare them.

If there is no vacuum leak it could be the throttle plate being open too far. If that isn' it it could be in the cooling system. These engines should operate between 185-205 degrees, if it isn' the computer will feed it more air to try to get it to operating temperatures.
 
I for the life of me messed with trying to put the tps on the throttle body to have it work like the voltage was describing and the only way I could get it is if the throttle plate was about half way open. How the tps is designed means that it can only open one way which is with the throttle plate opening.

Maybe some wires were crossed or something. But I'll look at my tps that I know is at .5v and take a picture so you can compare them.

If there is no vacuum leak it could be the throttle plate being open too far. If that isn' it it could be in the cooling system. These engines should operate between 185-205 degrees, if it isn' the computer will feed it more air to try to get it to operating temperatures.
Did you ever take a pic of your tps?
 
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