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Can i run my catch can lines this way?

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talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
869
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
My oil catch can use to run from the side of the valve cover to the oil catch can and then back to the intake pipe but i saw this pic and figured i can run it this way also?

Pcv valve hose to oil catch can back to the side of the valve cover and cap off the intake pipe where it connects to the pcv hose because my new intake pipe doesnt have a port on it to run the other line and i really dont wanna drill into it. I got the stock intake manifold if that makes a difference and no filter ontop of the catch can.
 

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it will make a mess everywhere like that since its vented on the top it will allow oil and combustion gasses to escape. even with the filter there.

IF the pcv and the valve cover are going to the same can it should be a sealed can with a vac source to evacuate the head while at idle to remove any combustion and airborn oil
 
I'd say 9 out of 10 people I see running catch cans have it setup exactly like this with no problem.
 
He said in his OP the CC he has does NOT have a filter on top like the one in the picture, its sealed. To the OP, if you'd like to see how a CC is supposed to be setup go to our Tech Articles and read through them. I know Craig didn't spend hours typing this one up just to keep seeing threads like this one.

The 4g63t PCV Valve System

:dsm:
 
I have read many post's, and everyone has their own opinion. I personally am going to run the 2 catch can method, as the pvc is connected to the intake mani for a purpose, and its purpose is to create a vacuum to pull out the gases to reburn.
 
He said in his OP the CC he has does NOT have a filter on top like the one in the picture, its sealed. To the OP, if you'd like to see how a CC is supposed to be setup go to our Tech Articles and read through them. I know Craig didn't spend hours typing this one up just to keep seeing threads like this one.

:ohdamn: Doh, i totally did not see that line in there. In that case i retract my statement
 
The way i have it now is: pcv valve to the intake how it comes stock and i got a hose going from the side of valve cover to catch can but then the line thats suppose to be going to the intake pipe is not hooked up because i have no port on the intake pipe is this bad? I dont notice any difference and my dipstick doesnt pop out or anything like that..
 
If you want to run it like the picture in your OP you remove the PCV valve and use a fitting to the CC, then back to the side of the VC. Don't forget to cap the fitting on the IM that would normally connect to the PCV valve if you do it this way.

:dsm:
 
If you want to run it like the picture in your OP you remove the PCV valve and use a fitting to the CC, then back to the side of the VC. Don't forget to cap the fitting on the IM that would normally connect to the PCV valve if you do it this way.

:dsm:

so i remove the pcv valve and screw in a fitting instead? what size fitting would i need?
 
I think i heard that the old fitting from the intake manifold fits right in place of the p.c.v valve. Im going to try it today.
 
I know Craig didn't spend hours typing this one up just to keep seeing threads like this one.

Thanks Corey...not that it will ever change though. :)


because i have no port on the intake pipe is this bad?

Read the article Gofer linked to. If you want to set your PCV system up correctly, there is plenty of info there to guide you. If you don't feel like reading and doing it properly, then it doesn't really matter what you do because it won't make much difference.

What is your new intake pipe made from? I haven't found one yet that can't be easily drilled and a fitting installed to set up the system properly. ;)

I dont notice any difference and my dipstick doesnt pop out or anything like that..

That could just mean you have a really nice tight-fitting dipstick, but still enough pressure to affect oil draining from the turbo (as one example). If you want to know how much CC pressure you are truly seeing, measure it.
 
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Thanks Corey...not that it will ever change though. :)

OP, read the article Gofer linked to. If you want to set your PCV system up correctly, there is plenty of info there to guide you. If you don't feel like reading and doing it properly, then it doesn't really matter what you do because it won't make much difference.

What is your new intake made from? I haven't found one yet that can't be easily drilled and a fitting installed to set up the system properly.

So your saying the setup in the picture is wrong?

You've got to get a 1/8" NPT fitting and then run a 1/8" NPT tap in the PCV port on the valve cover.

:dsm:

Can i just take the pcv valve to menards and match the size threads with a npt and screw the npt in there and connect it to the catch can? why would i have to drill if i can get the same size npt as the pcv valve?
 
So your saying the setup in the picture is wrong?

What I'm saying is that the way it's done in that picture is very inefficient and bordering on useless until CC pressure is high enough to overcome atmospheric pressure and whatever pressure drop there is across the filter and lines. In other words, the CC will most likely always be under some amount of positive pressure.

If you consider that "wrong"... then yes. :D

Can i just take the pcv valve to menards and match the size threads with a npt and screw the npt in there and connect it to the catch can? why would i have to drill if i can get the same size npt as the pcv valve?

The PCV valve has threads which are not exactly 1/8" NPT, but very close to it. (I believe they are actually BSP threads). You don't have to drill the VC; just pull it off and run a 1/8" NPT tap through it, which will tweak the threads just enough for a standard fitting to thread into. Be sure to drill upwards so the shavings fall out and not into the VC. Better yet, hold a vacuum hose up close while tapping it (do it safely!).

With that said, using that port for anything other than a PCV valve (especially without suction on it) isn't going to gain you a lot. The ID cross-sectional area of most 1/8" fittings probably won't be more than about .008 square inches, which needless to say can't flow much air under low pressure.

For a simplified example; assuming 1 psi of CC pressure, a temperature of 150*F, and a pressure drop of .1 psi through a 10 inch long hose...you can theoretically flow this much air:

1/8" inside diameter: 0.285 CFM
1/4" inside diameter : 1.861 CFM
5/16" inside diameter : 3.403 CFM
3/8" inside diameter : 5.568 CFM

We're ignoring pipe roughness, local resistance coefficient, flow turbulence, etc.... but you get the point. Bigger is better if you aren't "pulling" air from the other end. That little 1/8" opening (actually less than that) isn't gonna do much.

FWIW, the line going from the PCV valve to the can in that pic looks to be -6AN, which would be somewhere around .34" ID...considerably better than 1/8" NPT but still not ideal since it is an open can.
 
I would like to note too, I run my catch can setup EXACTLY like the picture in the OP and I blow nasty looking oil out if every time I track the car. I have my battery below it so it spews all over the top of my battery, then down to the sub-frame, and then it drips onto the pavement.

If I were to get another CC setup I would get a sealed tank with (2) hoses running to it from the valve cover and a hose running to the intake to create a small vacuum.

:dsm:
 
I was thinking of re tapping my CC with a third inlet to run my pcv to my catch can. As of right now my CC has a line from the side of my vc to cc then to intake pipe. Is it ok to do it that way? Could I use the vacuum source for a map sensor?
 
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