The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support STM Tuned

Will this catch can idea work?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Is it alright for my build to delete to PCV valve and have 2 fittings off of the valve cover and then one go to the 4" fp intake?

Or do I really have to buy 2 cans and have one from the valve cover to the intake and one from the intake manifold to the PCV valve.



Thanks,.
 
Yeah I read that before. I know how everything works but I just want to know which method I should chose and what are the side effects of each setup.

Here is a picture, let me know which one is good for a 450whp car.

The motor is new and just rebuilt with a manley/manley combo so its not like the car has bad blowby problems.

Which would be the best to ensure a healthy engine (which should have the factory made to start).


Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • zzzzzzz.jpg
    zzzzzzz.jpg
    31.2 KB · Views: 76
Running two catch cans with a check valve is the way to go IMHO, because you get such a good vacuum pull at idle during warmup to help pull all those nasty gasses out. The can with the check valve is the can I said in my previous post #18 catches ALOT of stuff on my setup. I just don't think you would get as good of a vacuum/pull on it at idle with it running to the turbo inlet. The more of that crap you can keep out of your oil the better if you ask me.:)
 
I think I might go with 99gst_racer's setup because at 450whp, its not going to be a daily driver, but still will be driven pretty much in the summer.



is it okay to delete the PCV valve and run 2 inlets and 1 outlet to the intake?
 
I posted a thread on here before about catch cans and which I should run.

I decided I can't do 2 cans because of the clutter and money for 2.

I want to delete the PCV valve and run a 2 inlet and 1 outlet design with -10AN fittings.

I heard I will get around .2 pressure while idle/non boost, but no positive while driving in boost.

Is that .2 even a big deal?

This is the same as Paul Volks setup

This thread. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/372279-my-new-crankcase-evactuation-system-2.html


So really now from re reading this, do I want a 2 in and 1 out or a 2 in and 2 out?
 
i shaved my engine bay and mounted my oil catch can to my firewall on the passenger side ....i duno if that will help
 
The thread you linked to says to do as many out as you do in. I didn't opt. for this method. When I had my catch can build I had 2 -10 in and 1 -10 out.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Here are the 3 ideas I am considering.

1. 2 IN AND 1 OUT

2. 2 IN AND 2 OUT

3. 2 IN AND VENTED (Does this cause unmetered air? even though it is just coming from the VC and there is no vacuum lines.

Which is the best setup?
 
Here are the 3 ideas I am considering.

1. 2 IN AND 1 OUT

2. 2 IN AND 2 OUT

3. 2 IN AND VENTED (Does this cause unmetered air? even though it is just coming from the VC and there is no vacuum lines.

Which is the best setup?

Yes, venting your can will cause air metering issues.
I like 1 in 2 out, personally(velocity). What are your goals? Why are you making such an elaborate setup?

I'm very satisfied with mine, just tweaked it yesterday.
Homemade = $6 and every bit as functional as some of the more expensive setups.
 
I'm very satisfied with mine, just tweaked it yesterday.
Homemade = $6 and every bit as functional as some of the more expensive setups.
You should post the homemade setup you put together, I'd like to see it and I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one.

:dsm:
 
OP, you said you read the link Gofer took the time to put up for you, so why are you talking about ditching the PCV valve?
What suction does a dead end Catch Can create with a breather? Ya, none.
How does that Can help evacuate crankcase pressure and gases at idle and cruise? It doesn't it only gets whatever pressure the crankcase can push through it vs having a draw from the intake manifold. = Not great for idle or oil.

Why does everyone think that adding 10 lines that all lead back to the inlet pipe do a better job than the stock one? The turbo is creating the vacuum or suction, which is a very small amount, so adding 20 more lines to it isn't going to do anything other than cost you more. Want more crankcase evacuation, add a vacuum pump that pulls more than 1" to suck it out. Making the line a -10 which is attached to a fitting in the valve cover that has a 1/4" ID is pointless. Adding your own fittings to the cover that all lead back to the inlet pipe just wasted whatever time and $ you spent on it. You were better off getting an Electric Vacuum pump that pulls 4-6" and using the single line.

1 Can is needed with a -6 line going to it and the turbo. If you install a Kynar US Plastic check valve, like the one in Gofers link, you won't get oil in your intake during WOT. This thread is way out of control. There, I just saved you probably $100 at least.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top