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Cam test: I will be dyno test: delta hks 272, delta K272 and BC 272 cams!!!!

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ok what if ## tuner claims they dont need to degreed? i have always thought u needed to degree aftermarket cams but my tuner thinks otherwise. what kind of performance gains am i missing out on?
None because if you are eventually going to dyno tune you will get the most out of the cams anyway!
Here is some information I found years ago and have been tuning this way with great success! some might disagree they are entiled to that! Look back at my post #10 my dyno vs my buddies dyno. His car lopes like a V8 too much overlap in my opinion but his car is set up for extremely high drag type hp. My car loped a little with the 264s when first installed I applied the principle below and tuned out the lope by speading the lobe center and created a torque monster. Its all boils down to where you want your power to be in your rpm range!

Camshaft Tuning Info


On four stroke engines, it is important to realize that the cam rotates once for every two rotations of the crankshaft.

Volumetric efficiency is based on cylinder fill. If a 2.0L engine is filled with 2.0L of an air/fuel mixture, we say its volumetric efficiency is 100%. If a 2.0L engine fills with 3.0L of an air/fuel mixture, we say its volumetric efficiency is 150%. A forced induction engine will have a larger than 100% volumetric efficiency since the intake charge and combustion chamber are being pressurized. A naturally aspirated engine can also have a slightly larger than 100% volumetric efficiency, but it will only happen for a short duration, and is usually only in the peak of the powerband.

The art of designing camshaft profiles is meant to increase the volumetric efficiency in the RPM range that the customer requires. Camshafts don't make magical horsepower from nowhere, they simply move the powerband around by changing the volumetric efficiency to attain the desired results.

The four strokes of the engine are:
Exhaust
Intake
Compression
Combustion
**The "start" is not important because it's a CYCLE, meaning it repeats**

Looking at a camshaft, the sequence would be as follows:
The exhaust lobe pushes open the exhaust valve and the piston comes up to push the exhaust out, then starts to close. The intake starts to open, just as the exhaust is closing, piston goes down, and the intake valve closes. Then both valves stay closed for the compression and combustion strokes. This means that the first lobe to come through the rotation will be the exhaust lobe, immediately followed by the intake lobe.

Overlap is the point where the exhaust valve is closing, and the intake valve is just opening.

To increase overlap, you have to RETARD the EXHAUST, and/or ADVANCE the INTAKE.
To reduce overlap, you have to ADVANCE the EXHAUST, and/or RETARD the INTAKE.

Simple cam tuning rules for NATURALLY ASPIRATED engines:
Advancing both cams => more low-RPM power, less high-RPM power
Retarding both cams => more high-RPM power, less low-RPM power
Less overlap => more low-RPM power, less high-RPM power
More overlap => more high-RPM power, less low-RPM power

In a naturally aspirated engine, the extra overlap is called "scavenging". Scavenging is using the out-flowing exhaust to help draw in the next intake charge (partially causing lumpy idle).

Simple cam tuning rules for BOOSTED engines:
Advance intake and exhaust => more low-RPM power, less high-RPM power
Retard intake and exhaust => more high-RPM power, less low-RPM power
Less overlap => lower EGTs, faster turbo spool, less fuel
More overlap => higher EGTs, slower turbo spool, more fuel

Boosted engines don't like overlap. The incoming cold air and fuel cools down the outgoing exhaust charge, condensing the exhaust gasses. This is VERY counter-productive in a turbo application since the engine needs no help from scavenging to fill the cylinder. I've heard this being called "turbo chill".

Cool, condensed gasses in the same space push less hard on the turbo, causing lag. HOT gasses are better at spooling the turbo, thus the advanced exhaust timing to open the valve sooner in the power stroke. This steals some of those hot, expanding exhaust gasses to help spin the turbo a little faster. When the piston is near the bottom of the bore, hardly any energy is going into rotating the crank anyway, so stealing expanding gasses won't hurt anything. The retarded intake just helps cut down the overlap further.

Retarding overall cam timing:
Retarding overall cam timing is better for high-RPM power. This is because the valves are closing later. The intake valve is closing AFTER the piston has started to travel back up the bore for the start of compression stroke. This is terrible at low RPM because the intake air velocity is low, and air that was once in the cylinder is now being pushed back into the intake manifold and causing turbulence.

At high-RPM, the rules change. Air has weight, and thanks to Sir Issac Newton, we know that once it is moving, it doesn't want to stop moving. This means that the air can continue to flow into and fill the cylinder, EVEN AFTER the piston has begun to travel UP the cylinder bore. This can allow an engine to exceed 100% volumetric efficiency, if even by a small amount.

Advancing overall cam timing:
Advancing overall cam timing is better for low-RPM power. This is because the valves are closing a little sooner. The intake valve is closing AT or NEAR when the piston is at the bottom of the bore for the start of the compression stroke. This is great at low RPM because the intake air velocity is low and easily affected by changes in the direction of piston movement in the engine. Almost as soon as the piston gets to the bottom of the bore on the intake stroke, the valve gets slammed shut so no air can escape as the piston begins to travel back up the cylinder on the compression cycle.

At high-RPM, this may become a restriction since the air has inertia and responds a little slower to pressure changes, potentially choking the air flow to the engine a little.

Conclusion:
This information is aimed at allowing tuners to understand what happens when cam timing is altered. When a larger duration camshaft is being installed, unless the lobe centerlines have been changed, the overlap will be increased. If installing larger camshafts in a turbo application, advancing the exhaust and retarding the intake will reduce the inherent increase in overlap caused by upgrading to a larger profile. Most cam grinders, especially regrinders, put the new profile in the same position as the old profile because it is easier, or the only way possible. This has to be changed when the cams are installed in an engine to attain the desired result.
A forced-induction engine should idle smooth when properly tuned, and a naturally aspirated engine should be "lumpy" and have a lope if it is tuned aggressively towards the high-RPM range. If a forced induction engine is loping at idle, fuel is being wasted, turbo spool time is being increased (more lag), and power is being lost.
 
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Camshafts don't make magical horsepower from nowhere, they simply move the powerband around by changing the volumetric efficiency to attain the desired results

Camshafts do make power from nowhere :)

They don't move the hp band around directly. ". . .an engine's VE curve and torque curve very closely resemble each other" (click). They move the torque band around. 400 torque at 4K makes less hp than 400 torque at 6K. Since HP is torque over time. OR the rpms is a coefficent (multiple) of torque to calculate hp. Click.

Simply put, you can keep overlap, ramp rate, lift all the same. But if you simply move the torque curve up the rpm range by altering the duration, then you increase your peak hp number. If you have high enough rev limit, then the powerband won't be peaky. Altering cam timing will make it "peaky" (narrower power band). Move VE up the rpm range you alter peak HP. Cam timing can do that or overlap can do that. Again retarding cam timing alone increases peak hp but narrows the powerband.
 
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Camshafts do make power from nowhere :)

They don't move the hp band around directly. ". . .an engine's VE curve and torque curve very closely resemble each other" (click). They move the torque band around. 400 torque at 4K makes less hp than 400 torque at 6K. Since HP is torque over time. OR the rpms is a coefficent (multiple) of torque to calculate hp. Click.

Simply put, you can keep overlap, ramp rate, lift all the same. But if you simply move the torque curve up the rpm range by altering the duration, then you increase your peak hp number. If you have high enough rev limit, then the powerband won't be peaky. Altering cam timing will make it "peaky" (narrower power band). Move VE up the rpm range you alter peak HP. Cam timing can do that or overlap can do that. Again retarding cam timing alone increases peak hp but narrows the powerband.
I understand what you are saying and you are more than welcom to your view. I am all about the results!I finally got the bc cams dialed using the method above and idle is smooth the vacuum sits at 20hg and the car pulls like a monster. All this is seat of the butt dyno compared to my previous cams. I ended up having to retard the intake cam about 5 degrees and I advanced the exhaust cam about 2 degrees. I have tried several different settings and this is the best settings until the car gets strapped to the dyno!:rolleyes:
 
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Get her to tha dyno :)

WRT altering cam timing, I mean just retarding your total timing to net higher VE at a higher rpm range when your duration wasn't intended to deal with the momentum of the aircharge at that range. THAT is what will make a motor more peaky. Adding overlap or taking overlap away can certainly provide more power under the curve (opposite of peaky) depending on the setup and initial drop-in state of the cam grind. . .
 
Advanced the intake and retarded the exhaust. I was going out on a limb with you running a stock intake manifold ( I was hesitant to say the intake cam may not need to be changed, or even retarded 1 degree depending on your headgasket), but looks like it still worked out for you. :)
 
Get her to tha dyno :)

WRT altering cam timing, I mean just retarding your total timing to net higher VE at a higher rpm range when your duration wasn't intended to deal with the momentum of the aircharge at that range. THAT is what will make a motor more peaky. Adding overlap or taking overlap away can certainly provide more power under the curve (opposite of peaky) depending on the setup and initial drop-in state of the cam grind. . .

:thumb: I tried to get her in their today but couldn't sqeeze me in maybe wendsday.
 
Well finally got around to dynoing the Bc 272s. Results, at same boost level 31psi they made 10hp more than the hks 264 bc numbers came in at 514hp and 466tq spool was the same as the 264s until about 5500rpm is when the 272s did there number. With the 264 31psi is all I could run without any significant knock. With the bc 272s The car didn't knock any so I turned the boost up to 33psi and Made 529hp and 488Tq @ 6500rpm I did realize one thing though this is probably the most airflow the stock intake manifold can handle it started to choke after 6500rpm. One thing for sure it is possible to make over 500hp with stock intake manifold using Bc 272 cams. I must say I am very impressed with these cams I can't imagine if I had Some BC 280s and a Smim what kind of numbers the car would put out Next up on the test block will be the Delta hks 272 grind. We are scheduled for next Saturday but might be able to get in early. Sorry for the delay in between cam test but its very time consuming . I will post the two dyno sheets as soon as dyno lab send them to me via email/pdf
 
I like this test. I read your test criteria and it seems very well thought out and offers "real world" data. I'm anxious to see all the results.

Mike
 
Great BC review!!
About the 1g intake thats good news 500 HP is the max on the 1g intake before it starts to choke off and that RPM I have to agree with as well as I saw the same on the dyno myself. Problem with going with a SMIM is you loose so much low end torque for any kind of street driving its just not worth it.
 
Great BC review!!
About the 1g intake thats good news 500 HP is the max on the 1g intake before it starts to choke off and that RPM I have to agree with as well as I saw the same on the dyno myself. Problem with going with a SMIM is you loose so much low end torque for any kind of street driving its just not worth it.

Yeah I know. I really like the streetable 500whp. Maybe I will extrude hone the stock manifold and maybe gain a little more flow so as to have a happy balance. LOL
 
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Be sure to do it after the cam tests!

Also, losing the low end torque is a bunch of crock! When I went with my JMF Street, I was able to build an extra 5 lbs of boost brake torquing. It also dropped my 1/4 mile time from 13.3 to 12.5. This was on a low shifting automatic, Big 16g, and a maf translator.

A SMIM is WELL worth it IMO.

Then again, this is what I replaced the Street version with:

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Great to see the numbers in. I can't wait to see the atual graphs to really compare the powerbands. Do you have logs of the dyno runs?

Here are the logs from the two dyno runs. I set timing very conservative:D

here is the second log @ 33psi. knotice how the stock intake starts to choke:shhh:
 

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I noticed on the first pull of 31 psi the air flow was great all the way threw out the pull it never dropped off like the the 33 psi pull ??????
 
Nice! I was hoping you have the log of the hks 264s for comparison sake. I want to compare the two logs.

Go to this thread and look at post number 7:thumb: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dyno-talk/349759-welcome-me-500hp-club-bw-s259.html

I noticed on the first pull of 31 psi the air flow was great all the way threw out the pull it never dropped off like the the 33 psi pull ??????

I think the stock ignition system was also taking a hit. The car sputtered once or twice during the 33psi pull so we turned the boost down to 31psi no sputter knock or anything just smooth power this is what I drove home with:D:hmm:
 
THIS IS AN AWESOME TEST!!!!! I have bc272s and i get crap about how they aren't hks or fp or something dumb like that. I really like them granted the only other cams i've had were stock hahaha! At least now i now they are good to 500hp:D

All i can say is GO BC WOOT WOOT!!:hellyeah:

But what im really interested is to see is how they will stack up against the other272s, to be honest i know they aren't going to be at the top but i dont think they are way behind all the others like everyone seems to think. I guess only time (and the dyno :sneaky:) will tell
 
Be sure to do it after the cam tests!

Also, losing the low end torque is a bunch of crock! When I went with my JMF Street, I was able to build an extra 5 lbs of boost brake torquing. It also dropped my 1/4 mile time from 13.3 to 12.5. This was on a low shifting automatic, Big 16g, and a maf translator.

A SMIM is WELL worth it IMO.

Then again, this is what I replaced the Street version with:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Nice! Upgrading is definitely not out of the question!
 
So since im not cool, can you post a picture of the logs rather than dat files. I cant read those on my mac. Or can you just post up what it means. Thanks
 
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