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Budget head build

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10+ Year Contributor
2,123
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Aug 11, 2009
Allentown, Pennsylvania
I am trying to do a budget 420a head build. I have spare 4g63 parts so I wanna make a good combo for cheap.

Now I am planning on using stock valves with supertech seals.

The questions come to what cams and springs. If I were to get regrind cams, would the 4g63 springs be good enough?

Oh and I would use the PT cruiser rockers/lifters.
 
Yes the stock style 4g spring would fit on the 420a head.

But i doubt that the used stock 4g spring would be an upgrade due to age and fatigue.
 
If you plan on turboing soon I would reccommend you just get some titanium ones, that way you will have piece of mind when you do get to the turbo part. Thats just me though.
 
It's less the boost, more the inertia of the valve as it is opened that cause the springs to have problems. It is true that the boost doesn't help, but the seat pressure has to be pretty low to allow a valve to open due to boost. The spring has to stop the downward motion of the valve, and this is where the crusty old 4g63 springs are not the best option. It would be better to use evo springs, or potentially get a set of SRT-4 springs made for a 420a.

The valves won't have to be Ti. I've seen the stock valves handle much more boost than what you plan to run. I don't think I'd ever run anything but stock valves in an interference engine. Don't trust myself :D
 
This stuff is getting out of hand. Valve float is way over rated. We're not talking about a valve remaining closed, we're talking about a valve not closing (when we talk about valve float). This is normally a function of higher rpm's coupled with a "bigger" (ie higher lift) cam.

I get frustrated by a lot of this bullshit talk about how your valves are going to float unless you use dual freakin' springs from your goddamn front end! You guys ever ACTUALLY test out your theories on valve float? /rant.

Anyway, OP, I've run the 4G63's USED on Crower 3's in a turbo 420a set-up. There are numerous guys on the neon forums who have run the 4g63's (yeah, I'll take a little credit for passing that info on to them - pats himself on the back, LOL) Their spring pressures are much better than our stock valves (and stock have been run many times on boost). Here's a link to comparison info; 2GNT.com Forums - Viewing topic - The advantages of using 4G63 valve spring vs 420a springs; specs

Imo, these are a great choice for a "budget" head build. IF you are concerned about a set of used springs being worn, simply go to your local machine shop and have them test your springs. It'll take them all of 10 minutes to test all of your springs.

Since I'm here, I'll go to valve choice; nothing wrong with stock valve. BUT the reason I use SS valves is because of heat disappation and weight savings (that's a generic thought process for ANY head I rebuild. I have never actually compared the weights of our stock valves to a SS valve) . I've always gone with the "since I'm rebuilding I may as well go with SS valves" thought process. Now if you wanted to split the difference on your budget build, you may want to go with SS exhaust valves and stocker intakes because the exhaust valves obviously get more heat and the SS will dissappate the heat faster. But there is nothing really wrong with using the stockers (with the caveat that I would be sure to at least get new exhaust valves becasue of the aforementioned heat situation).

As for regrinds, I would recommend Delta. They have good quality product. I strongly advise you do NOT buy from DSMGraveyard. If you search on here the reason is obvious.

MB
 
This stuff is getting out of hand. Valve float is way over rated. We're not talking about a valve remaining closed, we're talking about a valve not closing (when we talk about valve float). This is normally a function of higher rpm's coupled with a "bigger" (ie higher lift) cam.

I get frustrated by a lot of this bullshit talk about how your valves are going to float unless you use dual freakin' springs from your goddamn front end! You guys ever ACTUALLY test out your theories on valve float? /rant.

Anyway, OP, I've run the 4G63's USED on Crower 3's in a turbo 420a set-up. There are numerous guys on the neon forums who have run the 4g63's (yeah, I'll take a little credit for passing that info on to them - pats himself on the back, LOL) Their spring pressures are much better than our stock valves (and stock have been run many times on boost). Here's a link to comparison info; 2GNT.com Forums - Viewing topic - The advantages of using 4G63 valve spring vs 420a springs; specs

Imo, these are a great choice for a "budget" head build. IF you are concerned about a set of used springs being worn, simply go to your local machine shop and have them test your springs. It'll take them all of 10 minutes to test all of your springs.

Since I'm here, I'll go to valve choice; nothing wrong with stock valve. BUT the reason I use SS valves is because of heat disappation and weight savings (that's a generic thought process for ANY head I rebuild. I have never actually compared the weights of our stock valves to a SS valve) . I've always gone with the "since I'm rebuilding I may as well go with SS valves" thought process. Now if you wanted to split the difference on your budget build, you may want to go with SS exhaust valves and stocker intakes because the exhaust valves obviously get more heat and the SS will dissappate the heat faster. But there is nothing really wrong with using the stockers (with the caveat that I would be sure to at least get new exhaust valves becasue of the aforementioned heat situation).

As for regrinds, I would recommend Delta. They have good quality product. I strongly advise you do NOT buy from DSMGraveyard. If you search on here the reason is obvious.

MB

This is why he's a wiseman.
some people should learn to only talk about things they can back up with facts.
I'd give you a high five if i could MB.
 
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