The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support Rix Racing

broken turbo bolts

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

16gevoiii

Probationary Member
16
1
Jan 2, 2007
south bay, California
hey guys,just know that i reasearched and did not find anything on how to remove the RRE turbo bolt replacements for stock ones.first off i did soak with PB blaster for 2 days and it started to give on 1 out 4 and 3 broke leaving 1/2 to 1/4" of thread left.i tried heating it,using brand name stud removers but no joy.
any ideas?i am ready to just upgrade and get a new 20g
thanks for your help
 
Its a common problem that is a massive PITA. I think everyone that has worked on a DSM has had this problem. You could weld a washer/nut on the broken stud and take it out that way. Its what im going to end up having to do with mine also...
 
Have you tried EZ outs? They will destroy the studs though. They have always worked for me. Use them with heat if you can. Just heat up around the stud, not the actual stud. Also what are you using to heat with? oxy acetylene?
 
Drill press, slow and steady. Make sure it is center. Oil for lube works as things speed up.Slowly go to a bigger bit and it will remove the stud. Go big right before contacting the threads, and then retap the hole to ensure the threads are clean. Lube the new bolt and hand thread it in. Should be nice and easy. If threads are damaged, put a coil in it.
 
just using mapp gas for heat and it is actually still connected to engine hoping to get it out that way.since the bolts on the o2 housing are now that much harder to remove due to movement.
i have tried ez out,but my bits suck!any suggestions as to what type for such a hard metal?
thanks guys

Drill press, slow and steady. Make sure it is center. Oil for lube works as things speed up.Slowly go to a bigger bit and it will remove the stud. Go big right before contacting the threads, and then retap the hole to ensure the threads are clean. Lube the new bolt and hand thread it in. Should be nice and easy. If threads are damaged, put a coil in it.

i will due that as soon as i get it out
thanks
 
You need to just drill the bolts out. I've tried quite a few times to screw them out by welding a nut to it (which works great with other bolts), it never works and just makes drilling them out MUCH harder.

DON'T let it get red hot when drilling and get a drill doctor to keep your bits sharp.
 
You need to just drill the bolts out. I've tried quite a few times to screw them out by welding a nut to it (which works great with other bolts), it never works and just makes drilling them out MUCH harder.

DON'T let it get red hot when drilling and get a drill doctor to keep your bits sharp.

sounds like good advice,but what is drill doctor?
 
EZ outs work magnificent, I broke a cam cap bolt and the EZ out took it out easily, just be care you dont slip when drilling it out.
 
Take the turbine housing off and take it to a machine shop or garage. Look for one with an old guy working at it. He may be able to burn the broken stud out of the housing without damaging the threads in the housing. From what I hear, it's mostly the old timers that know how to do it. Seems to be a lost art.
 
Just apply heat, or EZ out, or Drill either way, and if you do mess the threads up, buy an adapter kit and just drill and retap the threads to the corresponding bolts. They make kits for all thread sizes. I'm sure just about any auto store sells em.
 
i think i will do that.thanks for your help!
it a bear to get these out

appreciate all your help and advice guys and will let you know what what route i went to help someone else out
 
After spending hundreds of dollars on ez outs, and thread repair solutions i finally found what really works, and doesn't have this problem. Drill the holes out and use nuts, and bolts, problem solved. If they get seized together, just break the bolt with an impact or large breaker bar.
 
tried something similiar and still did not come out.i did manage to break one loose but it would not come out
i am going to parts and machine shop to either buy what i need or just have them remove bolts depending on cost
thanks
 
I snapped off an ARP turbo bolt in the turbine housing yesterday and just drilled it out with a bit made for steel. Got a set of bits from Lowes for $20. Just be sure to use a lot of cutting fluid.
 
Carbide bits are kind of expensive but are the best for drilling out hard steel.
 
The thread size is M10x1.25. This is a fine pitch thread. Be careful if you buy a thread repair kit because most are M10x1.5.

Also, you don't want to use your generic hardware store bolts. They can't take the heat.

When you say they can't take the heat, do you mean for long periods of time? I only ask because I had grade 8 bolts from Lowe's holding my 14b to the stock manifold for like 2 years. Daily driven, and a few times at the track, too. The only problem I had was they came loose a couple times, I think... But maybe that was "operator headspace"!:shhh:
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top