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1G removing engine splash shield - Broken Bolts

Red Rider

Probationary Member
Aug 12, 2009
NW, Connecticut
I'm removing the left engine splash shield on the way to removing the lower timing cover and checking if the balance shaft belt has come off, this is post timing belt breaking and bent valves. (1990 GST) So far 2 bolts have sheared off out of the 6 or so that hold it in place. So 3 questions:

Is there a way you can spray penetrating oil into the threads? On the tire side it looks like the fasteners go into a box beam, (no access?) and on the radiator side I can't see or get to those either.

Has anyone else snapped these off and then drilled and tapped new holes? Seems like the only way out.

Or if I don't drive the car in the winter, does it matter that much if you just leave the splash shield off?

Red Rider

Probationary Member
Aug 12, 2009
NW, Connecticut
So 50 views and no wisdom offered, I decided to try the weaker of my two air impact wrenches on 75lbs of air. Score: 2 released, 3 sheared, one plastic clip that was a breeze.


Proven Member
Nov 25, 2002
Pearl River, Louisiana
Glad you got it off and thanks for updating us with the results. At least with it out of the way you can see what it’s going to take to try to tackle the extraction and replacement. If it was my car, I would hope to be able to reinstall it and not just leave it off.

Mech Addict

Proven Member
Jun 9, 2019
Jackson, Wyoming
Yes, one of those body fasteners that likes to rust. Mine has a p/s leak so bad that everything on the drivers side of the engine and thereabouts was coated in a handy layer of penetrating oil, so I never had quite the issue as you. But I did have that same problem on my front bumper cover. Get the drill.... At least those bolts are mild steel. Might be worth a few rounds of propane torch and liquid wrench, and then a left-hand bit. Some might just “unscrew” from that. You can certainly leave it off without much consequence, either. Just looks a little unfinished.


Proven Member
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
Any bolt that hasn’t been touched around the wheel wells have A LOT of rust build up on the threads and most will break unless it’s a car from the south. I find for those where you can reach behind (after bolt snapped) and get at the bolt from the other side sometimes comes out the other end with a pair of vice grips or else you’ll just have to drill and tap them. If you have a small impact, loosen little then tighten back and forth will break the rust (50/50 shot they’ll come out clean. I can’t tell you how many bolts I’ve broken but if you’re good at drilling, that’s a huge plus. Map torch is your best friend on bolts your can heat up and a much better chance of breaking the loose
Last edited:
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
MAP TORCH, not just a MAP gas unit. I just bought one like Tony is talking about that comes with an Oxygen bottle and that little dam thing is MIGHTY when it comes to fasteners (like my RED LOCKTITED torque converter bolts). Highly suggest one for these old cars. This is the setup I have and got it for $75 at True Value Hardware.
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