The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

1G removing engine splash shield - Broken Bolts

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Red Rider

10+ Year Contributor
103
47
Aug 12, 2009
NW, Connecticut
I'm removing the left engine splash shield on the way to removing the lower timing cover and checking if the balance shaft belt has come off, this is post timing belt breaking and bent valves. (1990 GST) So far 2 bolts have sheared off out of the 6 or so that hold it in place. So 3 questions:

Is there a way you can spray penetrating oil into the threads? On the tire side it looks like the fasteners go into a box beam, (no access?) and on the radiator side I can't see or get to those either.

Has anyone else snapped these off and then drilled and tapped new holes? Seems like the only way out.

Or if I don't drive the car in the winter, does it matter that much if you just leave the splash shield off?
 
Glad you got it off and thanks for updating us with the results. At least with it out of the way you can see what it’s going to take to try to tackle the extraction and replacement. If it was my car, I would hope to be able to reinstall it and not just leave it off.
 
Yes, one of those body fasteners that likes to rust. Mine has a p/s leak so bad that everything on the drivers side of the engine and thereabouts was coated in a handy layer of penetrating oil, so I never had quite the issue as you. But I did have that same problem on my front bumper cover. Get the drill.... At least those bolts are mild steel. Might be worth a few rounds of propane torch and liquid wrench, and then a left-hand bit. Some might just “unscrew” from that. You can certainly leave it off without much consequence, either. Just looks a little unfinished.
 
Any bolt that hasn’t been touched around the wheel wells have A LOT of rust build up on the threads and most will break unless it’s a car from the south. I find for those where you can reach behind (after bolt snapped) and get at the bolt from the other side sometimes comes out the other end with a pair of vice grips or else you’ll just have to drill and tap them. If you have a small impact, loosen little then tighten back and forth will break the rust (50/50 shot they’ll come out clean. I can’t tell you how many bolts I’ve broken but if you’re good at drilling, that’s a huge plus. Map torch is your best friend on bolts your can heat up and a much better chance of breaking the loose
 
Last edited:
MAP TORCH, not just a MAP gas unit. I just bought one like Tony is talking about that comes with an Oxygen bottle and that little dam thing is MIGHTY when it comes to fasteners (like my RED LOCKTITED torque converter bolts). Highly suggest one for these old cars. This is the setup I have and got it for $75 at True Value Hardware.
Marty
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top