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1G Broken fuel rail bolts

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scott90gsx420

10+ Year Contributor
603
5
Sep 25, 2010
nampa, Idaho
Ok so i broke my passenger side fuel rail bolt off.. It broke completely flush with the head..
I tried to start drilling it so i could get it with a easy out kit but as i was drilling the pilot hole the bolt started to go deeper. What i want to know is do the holes go all the way threw the head.
As in if i keep drilling will it keep spinning??? I don't wanna have to pull the head off because the bolt goes thru it.. Or Does the hole not go threw the head all the way and will eventually stop?? Like hit rock bottom and not go any deeper??:D..
 
Get the right tool....You can get a easy out kit at autozone free rentals. That should work for you
 
No idea if it goes all the way through but with the correct bit it will come out in seconds.
 
Get the right tool....You can get a easy out kit at autozone free rentals. That should work for you

+1 on use of an EZ out. Be really careful if you do this though, that you're doing it at a perfect vertical angle, otherwise you could drill through the block. I've seen this before, and it doesn't end well.
 
I picked up a set of left handed bits from Lowes. They're made by Kobalt and were fairly inexpensive. I used it to get a broken manifold stud out of my head. Worked like a charm.
 
Fuel rail bolt holes are not through holes.

Lol alright man thats all i needed to know.. Ive got an ez out i just didn't want to keep drilling the holes and have it keep pushing a bolt farther and farther in until it just falls somewhere in the motor..

Pretty much this happened months ago when i forgot to notice a spacer fell off, i over tightened the bolt and it snapped..

Ive checked it and it holds tight with two bolts.

I simply was removing this bolt as a test for my other issue so i didnt go in blindly with drilling out a much more important bolt(the carrier barring bolts for left cv axle snapped off in block going down road a couple weeks ago.....)

Lol sad to say ive become an alcoholic during this time without my car hahaha:D.

Now that ive got the tools i needed. And my uncles back in town if i end up needed a motor hoist to fix it il be back up and running before the end of the week..
 
Did you remove the A/C from the car. lot of people keep snapping the carrier bearing bolts when then remove the bracket for the A/C compressor. That bracket acts as a spacer.
 
Did you remove the A/C from the car. lot of people keep snapping the carrier bearing bolts when then remove the bracket for the A/C compressor. That bracket acts as a spacer.

A/C,components and all the lines were already out of the car when i bought it.. I didn't know it had to have those or else id have put them in when i built the motor..
Do these holes go all the way thru the block and into oil/water passages?? Or are they just drilled part of the way in..
Going to attack the job tomorrow so hopefully it is easily fixed and i don't have to pull the motor.. And will i be able to find the bracket on a N/A car or will i have to find a turbo car and hope i can find the stuff in there??
 
The only through hole (circled below) in the intake/back side of the block is the one to check if the rear balance shaft is in phase. The rest of them are blind.

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A/C bracket from any 2.0L 1G will work for you.
 

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or some washers that are the *exact* right size.

I mean, just "roughly" the right thickness washer will probably help your bolts last longer, but you'll probably still snap them. I cut my a/c bracket so only the one spacer you need is there and used that. Its the same thing as washers just the perfect size.

granted I don't own a dsm any longer....
 
The only through hole (circled below) in the intake/back side of the block is the one to check if the rear balance shaft is in phase. The rest of them are blind.

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A/C bracket from any 2.0L 1G will work for you.

Wow man thank you very much.. I am waiting to do this tomorrow. Everyone is telling me the bolts will only be like finger tight because they have no torque on them and that once i can get them backed out of the block i bit then I should be able to get the rest of it out with just my fingers..

So im going to just go and grab a reverse drill bit when the local tool shop opens back up tomorrow and try to just get it to back out that way so im not risking drilling in to far at an angle or something and ruining my threads.. At the very least it will still start a hole so it cant hurt anything..

Also will hit a junkyard tomorrow and get a A/C bracket LOL.. Im just going to cut it down i like having a very open engine bay and all my A/C stuff and power steering stuff is gone anyway.. Just got to do a wire-tuck and my bay will look 100%..

What are the chances the bolts for the carrier barring will not want to come out?? Like that they will somehow have torque on them still or something??
 

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Wow man thank you very much.. I am waiting to do this tomorrow. Everyone is telling me the bolts will only be like finger tight because they have no torque on them and that once i can get them backed out of the block i bit then I should be able to get the rest of it out with just my fingers..

It should be loose enough for your fingers unless it is cross-threaded for some reason or the threads got super rusty or stripped.

So im going to just go and grab a reverse drill bit when the local tool shop opens back up tomorrow and try to just get it to back out that way so im not risking drilling in to far at an angle or something and ruining my threads.. At the very least it will still start a hole so it cant hurt anything..

Start small with a pilot hole. Even if it goes a bit crooked, it has less of a chance of ruining the threads.

What are the chances the bolts for the carrier barring will not want to come out?? Like that they will somehow have torque on them still or something??

As before, very little chance they will have any torque on them.
 
It should be loose enough for your fingers unless it is cross-threaded for some reason or the threads got super rusty or stripped.



Start small with a pilot hole. Even if it goes a bit crooked, it has less of a chance of ruining the threads.



As before, very little chance they will have any torque on them.

Lol ok thanks a lot man. I'm going to wait until tomorrow and try and back it out with a reverse drill bit.. Im hoping that works and that it just drills in a bit then grabs the bolts and backs them out.....

And i doubt there will be rust or anything on them and im pretty sure there not cross threaded...

The motor was built a year ago so there shouldn't be any rust and i don't remember having any issues with putting the thing back together.

:aha: maby i should just go run the motor and the vibration of not having my balance shafts will cause it to back out:hmm: haha JK...
 
I just have a small diameter punch that i use to back them out, make sure not to hit the threads with it. I just put it against the edge on the broken bolt at an angle, pointed towards the direction that will remove the bolt. From there you just tap it, and it will turn the bolt out. The reverse drill bits and a easy out will work as well if done right.
 
Well i got the fuel rail bolt out..
Been trying to back the carrier barring bolts out and there not coming out at all.. So im thinking im screwed..
Im hoping my neighbor will let me borrow his motor hoist then i can at least get her out and try that way...

IDK get why there is torque on the bolts though everyone has told me there would be none but i guess i just have bad luck..

Well just talked to the neighbor and he is going to get his hoist back from his dad and let me borrow it so il have the motor out as soon as he gets that too me.
WHen i built the motor i pulled transfercase,tranny and motor at the same time..Can i just drop the t-case,and pull the motor&tranny only, or even just pull the motor??
 
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