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1G Broken CV shaft or input shaft for tranny

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awdtsi_90

15+ Year Contributor
294
177
Jan 21, 2011
Wichita, Kansas
This is the drivers side front shaft on a 1990 AWD Talon. From my memory when we pulled out the shaft to replace it there was a shaft that came out with it instead of being flat like in the pic. What could it be?

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When I put my auto car together, I almost had the motor in and thought "why not go ahead and put the half shaft on now". I am sure glad I did. One bolt was broken off in the block but the other was fine and I had never noticed the broken bolt. I got it extracted by welding a nut to it and backing it out. I then replaced both with grade 12 allen headed bolts. I hope yours is half as easy to get out. Crossing fingers! 🤞
 
The half shaft slips into the center differential on a AWD car. It is splined so other than wobbling out the splines, IDK if the dif bearing would be wore. When you get the shaft out, see if the center differential slops around any at all. It should still be solid but who knows how long the shaft was not in the correct position.
I attached a picture of the center diff from Kurts Whiteshed Speed website so you can see what the half shaft slips into.
Please, if anyone can give better advice to our member, jump in and help! I don't want to be giving erroneous information.

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There we go. Thank you Paul! :thumb:
I was questioning my references. Sure appreciate you sitting me straight!
 
It's just a splined shaft. Take the whole assembly out of the car, axle bearing housing and half shaft. You can separate the axle from the half shaft fairly easily with hand tools etc. If the bearing housing/bearing is ok you can reassemble the new axle to the halfshaft and reinstall. I suspect you have problems with the bearing or housing. You won't know until you go look.
 
I am going to look this weekend. I will jack up the car and take a look. I'm also going to see if I can't get the Talon started.

I ordered a new starter and clutch slave cylinder because the pedal seems sticky down toward the floor. It doesn't get stuck but feels sticky. Looked under the car and the slave cylinder was rusted so I ordered one and I got it on sale for 15 from Advanced Auto Parts.

The clutch was replaced when the motor was rebuilt 9 years ago. Has less then 5,000 miles on motor, suspension, turbo, clutch, flywheel just it literally sit for 9 years.

Thank you very much Marty & Pauly
 
No problem. Paul is always a good person to get input from, especially in the transmission department. He helped walk me through a total rebuild and I was ever so thankful.
 
So I ran my hand along the axle yesterday and I'm going to jack it up to look today but as I was following the axle yesterday I felt the housing and it felt like its still bolted to the block. I could feel the bearing/seal is almost gone in it tho. I'll get pics and a better look today but I have not been able to find a bearing to replace it.

Any idea or does anyone have a part number that's available for it, or is that something I just take to a shop and have them get the bearing and press it in? Is there anything else I need to get or do whenever I replace it?
 
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Sounds like you don't have the Factory Service Manual (FSM). You should get a 1990 copy because of all the differences but for now the PDF's will answer much of your questions.


IIRC, there are also seals that have to be replaced when you replace the IM Shaft bearing.
I split the axle from the IM Shaft with a dead blow hammer being careful not to drop the axle on my feet.

 
Here is a video of the intermediate shaft bearing shot.
It looks like there is nothing in that hole, so here are exploded assembly drawings that show what was originally in there.
This is how Mitsubishi shows it - from an actual dealer, MitsubishiPartsNow (Capital City Mitsubishi parts department):

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And this is how Febest shows it (below) on the Amazon page where they sell the bearing and seals as a kit.
Link to the Amazon page:
30X62X16 Febest AS-306216-KIT OEM MB526956

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I haven't seen these Febest parts but it looks to me like they have the right idea, and the bearing dimensionally is a 30x62x16 according to "everybody". The Amazon page right now says "2 in stock". There are lots of other ways to buy a 30x62x16 sealed ball bearing (just the bearing) but I would probably get this kit which is only $35.

BTW on the Amazon page, if you tell it that your car is an Eagle Talon it will say "does not fit". But if you tell it your car is a Mitsubishi Eclipse it says "This Fits". It's probably just the thing where some sellers don't bother to include the Eagle brand in their listings, which happens a lot.
 

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I hope it's not a big job. It's just 2 bolts to remove the housing and get the bearing pressed in right then put the housing back on and slide the shaft and axel on. or is there more to it? I'm a very entry level beginner mechanic at the moment.

I think that's about right. It sounds like you've done press fit things before so with that going for you I think it will be ok. Plus help when you need it from guys in here who have done this particular bearing before!
 
Well I'm gonna save up some money and take the car to fusion works racing here in Wichita KS. He is the one back in the day who actually did all the work on the car with the new motor rebuild, new turbo, clutch, flywheel, suspension, re wire so I'm just gonna let him do it and a very good thorough look over the car.

I talked to him today and told him I wasn't looking for power at the moment I just want to get the car a dependable daily driver for nostalgic and old times. Plus I love the car, throw some tunes in it, and it's a perfect car to daily. Its AWD, got power, it looks good, turbo noises, & its almost a classic with such a huge role in the car culture. He can get everything going and tuned up for me then from there in time I can replace injectors, fuel pump, FPR, install the FMIC and learn DSMLink with not having to figure out problems starting off and learning.

It will be about $1,200 in labor for what needs done. Slave & master clutch cylinder replacement & bleed, brake cylinder and bleed, intermediate shaft bearing kit, install wideband gauge, a full inspection over car then a tune. That's not including parts :( which I have the slave cylinder for clutch already and need everything else but gotta start somewhere.
 
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