Break in with a base map?

[Evilimports]

I think ill be going with the motoman method of breaking in an engine when the time comes but i have one problem, im going from bone stock to an hx35 and all suporting mods for 30psi and stand alone engine managment. So my question is, will a base map be good enough to beat on the car within those first crucial miles? Or should i leave the stock ecu and injectors in and keep boost low until after the break in period?

 

[viperlp01]

Damn that is a hard choice... What engine managment system are you using. Sometimes it will only take a few miles to get your basemap on the EMS, once you get that than you can start tuning for wot...

 

[Evilimports]

Im still trying to decide on the ems. Maybe haltech. If i start out with the oem computer ill still instal the ems after the break in

 

[viperlp01]

Right. The holset is a whole alot of turbo for the stock injectors. The boost levels would be so low.. Im talking like 8 psi in a huge turbo like that .. The turbo will not act like it should at all. It will be way below its efficeincy range. But Good luck man

 

[Burnett03]

I'd run the stock ecu, to many variables with ems on a break-in unless you have someone who knows what they are doing with the tune. I broke my motor in on dsmlink at gate pressure (18psi) but dsmlink is easier to get started than ems.

 

[Evilimports]

Right. The holset is a whole alot of turbo for the stock injectors. The boost levels would be so low.. Im talking like 8 psi in a huge turbo like that .. The turbo will not act like it should at all. It will be way below its efficeincy range. But Good luck man

well can the oem computer handle 1000cc injectors?

 

[snowborder714]

No.

Have you considered ECMlink, especially since you might have an EPROM ECU?

 

[Evilimports]

Well isn't the dsm link like $500 or $600? They way i look at it is thats half way or so to a full stand alone. I decided a while ago that i wouldnt buy anything that i would want to upgrade later, this way its cheeper in the long run ya know

 

[My1GLaser]

IMO, DSMlink is one of the few things that most people don't need to upgrade once they get it. It is an upgrade from an SAFC or MAFT and a logger, which is initially the first tuning step. Then DSMLink is the upgrade that 95% stick with. Some outgrow it, but...

I am sure I would like some of the additional features of a standalone, but people run 9s using link. (I'm sure even a few 8s) Especially with V3 which is superior in quite a few ways to V2. Just my .02.

 

[snowborder714]

If you feel a full standalone would be cheaper in the long run, then go for it. I just can't justify at this point needing anything more than ECMlink (especially with direct access and speed density). Nor can I justify having to pay someone else tune it, as well as dyno time - just to start the car. And with the ability to e-mail the creators of the program for log help, that right there is awesome.

But if you were to go with ECMlink, I can't see you losing money if you decide later that you need more (which with your build, I'm not sure what extra features a full stand alone would give you that'd be really worth it). It holds its value and there is always someone looking to buy it.

 

[toofast82]

I really don't see the need to go with AEM or Haltech with EcmLink available for much cheaper. You could also look into going with a reflashed Ecu as well.
If your 95 has an eprom ecu, you can have it socketed($60), Ostrich emulator($175) and use Tunerpro(free) with bin and xdf files from the DSMecuYahoo forums as your cheapest solution with full fuel/timing control

 

[jrohner]

But is there any advantage to going with something more? I would consider harder and more complicated to tune and set up as an disadvantage not an advantage.

Over 700awhp has been done on a flashed Evo ECU, so it's proven that even a fairly wild setup can be ran without aftermarket standalone engine management.

+1 on the EPROM tuning stated by toofast82, but after tuning an especially logging an Evo 8, I would now recommend an Evo 8 ECU over a 95 EPROM. It only took me a few minutes to install the Evo ECU into my car and get it running.

 

[toofast82]

but after tuning an especially logging an Evo 8, I would now recommend an Evo 8 ECU over a 95 EPROM. It only took me a few minutes to install the Evo ECU into my car and get it running.

Plus there are Speed Density roms available for the evo ecu
How much are these used ecus typically costing?
How much is the reflash cable?

 

[jrohner]

I somehow lucked out and got my ECU for $66 with shipping, but the other ones I've seen have went for 120-150. The 1.3U cable is $117, or the newer nicer 2.0 cable is about $180, and Evoscan is only $20 ($25 without a cable purchase).

 

[jrohner]

1I would be a little leary on trying to break in a new engine on a totally new setup and new EMS system with out a base map that you know for sure is fairly close. If I was just running a basic EPROM tune or Evo 8 reflash, I wouldn't be worried about it at all since it's what I'm familiar with, and it's quite easy to get a close base map without running and logging.

 

[toofast82]

I would try to keep the boost pretty conservative during break-in. The stock ecu should be able to handle this no problem with stock injectors and low boost. This should give you some time to read up on your tuning options and make your choice

 

[Evilimports]

Well you guys are starting to convince me to get dsmlink. So if i dont go with an evo ecu, how do you tell if the oem ecu is eprom?

 

[toofast82]

Well you guys are starting to convince me to get dsmlink. So if i dont go with an evo ecu, how do you tell if the oem ecu is eprom?

Just do the research of your options before you make the decision. Think of your future goals as well and upgrade once.
You can take the ecu cover off and visually see the eprom or try and match it up with known eprom model #s

 

[jrohner]

An EPROM ECU will have an E on the sticker where a non EPROM will have an M. The dsmlink site describes it too. Make sure and open it up to see the EPROM chip though, I wouldn't put all my trust in a sticker on a case that could've been swapped at some time.

 

[snowborder714]

epromid [ECMTuning - wiki]

 

[donniekak]

I would try to keep the boost pretty conservative during break-in. The stock ecu should be able to handle this no problem with stock injectors and low boost. This should give you some time to read up on your tuning options and make your choice

Low boost isn't a good reason to break in an engine on stock fuel. Not washing the cylinder walls is. I try to always break in engines with the stock fuel system, unless the system is already tuned and installed in the car. Like if someone blows up an engine and is replacing it with one of the same specs, and already have a well tuned system installed. I hate to say it, but if your breaking in a new engine at the same time as the initial tune on a stand alone, i recomend taking it to get broke in on a dyno. I would run the stock fuel system at wastegate boost and run it up to about 5000 rpm's in 3rd at wot and engine brake back to 2000 rpms 8-10 times with a cool down between pulls. Not a full cool down but a varying cruise from 30-50 mph.