2G boostin 1/2 head studs help!!!

[TheFlashDSM]

im legit putting my head onto my block right now!

i had boostin 1/2 head studs put in, do i need to tigten the head stud into the block tight, or do i hand tight them or a specific torque.

it says 105ft lbs i have to torque these to. what ft lb should i do? ex. - 20ft - 60ft - 80ft - 105ft? (i just made this up)

help asap!!!

@Boostin Performance

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Arp's go in just tight with the hex wrench and bottomed all the way out. I would expect Boostin's to be the same but I am running L19's in my 6 bolt. Thats how they went in.

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Arp's go in just tight with the hex wrench and bottomed all the way out. I would expect Boostin's to be the same but I am running L19's in my 6 bolt. Thats how they went in.

so just snug them with the hex right? thats how i remember all my arp's use to be i just wasnt sure about these and wait till you see them there beautiful!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Yep. Use lube so they don't gall on you unless you are using locktite. I don't deem it neccessary but some use blue. Arp assembly lube for me or similar.
1/2"ers should hold the head down!!!

 

[TheFlashDSM]

@1990TSIAWDTALON

it say 105ft lbs i have to torque these to. what ft lb should i do? ex. - 20ft - 60ft - 80ft - 105ft? (i just made this up)

 

[jakk220]

Make sure you run a thread chase down in there first and clean any gunk out. I have thought my studs were seated before and they werent because i didnt use a thread chase

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Make sure you run a thread chase down in there first and clean any gunk out. I have thought my studs were seated before and they werent because i didnt use a thread chase

the machine shop did all the work for them, so yes there good i even double checked

 

[jakk220]

Never hurts to mention it

 

[TheFlashDSM]

Never hurts to mention it

any idea on the O.P. tho, the torque specs to reach 105ft lbs?

 

[gsxeclipse102]

Id do 20-40-65-105

The last jump needs to be higher then the others

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I did mine about the same.
40-60-80-110-110
The 110 is my own decision and I always check the final value twice.

 

[C'LO]

I would just wait to ask boostin, I mean you are so close and it's such a critical part in my opinion and usually cylinder heads there is a torque sequence as you mentioned and a pattern.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

The FSM has the torque pattern, that doesn't change with head stud size. The install really can't be different but if you have the free time to wait, @Boostin Performance will get you your answer. Maybe the tag will get them to chime in.

 

[gofer]

To install the ARP's...

1. Spray brake clean in the threads and run a thread chaser (not a tap) down each one. Shoot compressed air in there to remove any debris. Repeat as necessary until you aren't getting anything out of them. I don't care what the engine builder/machine shop told you they did, do it yourself for peace of mind because they aren't going to cover your blown HG down the road.
2. Thread the studs in by hand (no lube) and ensure they easily bottom out in each thread of the block without snagging on the way down.
3. Remove studs.
4. Install headgasket and head on the block. Some do this after they've already got the ARP's hand tightened into the block but I prefer not to mare the threads on the studs as I drop the head over them.
5. Lube the block end of the studs with ARP Ultra-Torque lube then thread them in by hand until you feel them bottom out. You shouldn't need to use ANY tools to thread them into the block. FINGER TIGHT ONLY!
6. Lube the nut end of the stud with ARP Ultra-Torque lube.
7. Lube the washer (both sides) with ARP Ultra-Torque lube, then drop them on the studs (if the washers are beveled then the beveled side goes up). I've never personally seen the 1/2" studs that Boostin' uses so they maybe beveled...
8. Lube the nut with ARP Ultra-Torque lube, then thread them on the studs by hand until they are tight.
9. You want to torque the nuts in (3) equal steps so if states 105ft/lbs using ARP Ultra-Torque lubricant then I'd recommend doing 35 - 70 - 105 in the order that the FSM calls for...

This would be MY preferred method of installation if this were my motor. Of course Boostin' will be able to give you their exact method since they assy. motors with these all the time so if you can't wait, call them instead of trying to catch them on the forum.

(847) 781-1600 Open M-F 8am to 5pm (CST)
​

 

[jakk220]

To install the ARP's...

1. Spray brake clean in the threads and run a thread chaser (not a tap) down each one. Shoot compressed air in there to remove any debris. Repeat as necessary until you aren't getting anything out of them. I don't care what the engine builder/machine shop told you they did, do it yourself for peace of mind because they aren't going to cover your blown HG down the road.
2. Thread the studs in by hand (no lube) and ensure they easily bottom out in each thread of the block without snagging on the way down.
3. Remove studs.
4. Install headgasket and head on the block. Some do this after they've already got the ARP's hand tightened into the block but I prefer not to mare the threads on the studs as I drop the head over them.
5. Lube the block end of the studs with ARP Ultra-Torque lube then thread them in by hand until you feel them bottom out. You shouldn't need to use ANY tools to thread them into the block. FINGER TIGHT ONLY!
6. Lube the nut end of the stud with ARP Ultra-Torque lube.
7. Lube the washer (both sides) with ARP Ultra-Torque lube, then drop them on the studs (if the washers are beveled then the beveled side goes up). I've never personally seen the 1/2" studs that Boostin' uses so they maybe beveled...
8. Lube the nut with ARP Ultra-Torque lube, then thread them on the studs by hand until they are tight.
9. You want to torque the nuts in (3) equal steps so if states 105ft/lbs using ARP Ultra-Torque lubricant then I'd recommend doing 35 - 70 - 105 in the order that the FSM calls for...

This would be MY preferred method of installation if this were my motor. Of course Boostin' will be able to give you their exact method since they assy. motors with these all the time so if you can't wait, call them instead of trying to catch them on the forum.

(847) 781-1600 Open M-F 8am to 5pm (CST)
​

I second all of that except I do one or two things different. I don't use ARP lube on the end of the stud that goes in the block. I also make sure to use some WD40 when running the thread chase.

I agree with using a chase even if it was at the machine shop. Just because debris from machining and what not could be in there. I thought mine was okay too until I learned the hard way

 

[TheFlashDSM]

To install the ARP's...

1. Spray brake clean in the threads and run a thread chaser (not a tap) down each one. Shoot compressed air in there to remove any debris. Repeat as necessary until you aren't getting anything out of them. I don't care what the engine builder/machine shop told you they did, do it yourself for peace of mind because they aren't going to cover your blown HG down the road.
2. Thread the studs in by hand (no lube) and ensure they easily bottom out in each thread of the block without snagging on the way down.
3. Remove studs.
4. Install headgasket and head on the block. Some do this after they've already got the ARP's hand tightened into the block but I prefer not to mare the threads on the studs as I drop the head over them.
5. Lube the block end of the studs with ARP Ultra-Torque lube then thread them in by hand until you feel them bottom out. You shouldn't need to use ANY tools to thread them into the block. FINGER TIGHT ONLY!
6. Lube the nut end of the stud with ARP Ultra-Torque lube.
7. Lube the washer (both sides) with ARP Ultra-Torque lube, then drop them on the studs (if the washers are beveled then the beveled side goes up). I've never personally seen the 1/2" studs that Boostin' uses so they maybe beveled...
8. Lube the nut with ARP Ultra-Torque lube, then thread them on the studs by hand until they are tight.
9. You want to torque the nuts in (3) equal steps so if states 105ft/lbs using ARP Ultra-Torque lubricant then I'd recommend doing 35 - 70 - 105 in the order that the FSM calls for...

This would be MY preferred method of installation if this were my motor. Of course Boostin' will be able to give you their exact method since they assy. motors with these all the time so if you can't wait, call them instead of trying to catch them on the forum.

(847) 781-1600 Open M-F 8am to 5pm (CST)
​

awesome, im run a thread chaser then do this, im the mean time ive been putting accessories back on!

 

[jakk220]

Summit Racing sells a thread chaser made by ARP that works really good. It's an arm and a leg on the price though.

 

[jakk220]

And just as a heads up whatever you do dont use a tap to clean it out.

 

[Boostin Performance]

Give us a call at the shop! We'd be happy to answer any questions you have.

Boostin Performance
847-781-1600

 

[bastarddsm]

To install the ARP's...

1. Spray brake clean in the threads and run a thread chaser (not a tap) down each one. Shoot compressed air in there to remove any debris. Repeat as necessary until you aren't getting anything out of them. I don't care what the engine builder/machine shop told you they did, do it yourself for peace of mind because they aren't going to cover your blown HG down the road.
2. Thread the studs in by hand (no lube) and ensure they easily bottom out in each thread of the block without snagging on the way down.
3. Remove studs.
4. Install headgasket and head on the block. Some do this after they've already got the ARP's hand tightened into the block but I prefer not to mare the threads on the studs as I drop the head over them.
5. Lube the block end of the studs with ARP Ultra-Torque lube then thread them in by hand until you feel them bottom out. You shouldn't need to use ANY tools to thread them into the block. FINGER TIGHT ONLY!
6. Lube the nut end of the stud with ARP Ultra-Torque lube.
7. Lube the washer (both sides) with ARP Ultra-Torque lube, then drop them on the studs (if the washers are beveled then the beveled side goes up). I've never personally seen the 1/2" studs that Boostin' uses so they maybe beveled...
8. Lube the nut with ARP Ultra-Torque lube, then thread them on the studs by hand until they are tight.
9. You want to torque the nuts in (3) equal steps so if states 105ft/lbs using ARP Ultra-Torque lubricant then I'd recommend doing 35 - 70 - 105 in the order that the FSM calls for...

This would be MY preferred method of installation if this were my motor. Of course Boostin' will be able to give you their exact method since they assy. motors with these all the time so if you can't wait, call them instead of trying to catch them on the forum.

(847) 781-1600 Open M-F 8am to 5pm (CST)
​

A key point to remember with this is that it's nice to do it this way as you can drop the washers into place before you put the studs in. Usually there are a couple washers that have slight interference with the valve springs and seats.