Bolt+Timing Belt=Timing Jump & Valves hitting/ Now won't start

[Boomdeeze]

Long story short the bolts backed out of my HKS cam gears and fell down the cover which got lodged between the belt and a gear. My belt skipped and my intake cam advanced which caused the valves to hit the piston. I removed the head and tested the head, the valves were not bent. Reinstalled the head and did the timing which is spot on.

After everything was reconnected I tried to start it but it will not go. When I try to start it, it pulses and tries to start in waves but goes back to just the starter turning it over. If I back off the starter when it is trying to start, it will stay sputtering for about one second and die. I have gone through and checked everything to make sure it is all plugged in. Cold compression in the cylinders is 175-180-175-150. I know #1 is lower but it is a cold test and wouldn't cause the no start. I am getting fuel which lead me to think it is spark. I didn't change anything from before when it idles perfect. Thought it was maybe the CAS but swapped it out and had the same problem.

I did look in cylinder 1 through the plug hole and could see what appeared to be metal chunks on the piston. I put a magnet in there and turns out is is just bubbles of e85 sitting on the piston. I took all the plugs out, cleaned them and assured they were gapped correctly. Just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what sensor or setting to check in DSMLink. I will attach a log if it will let me. I have gone through MANY no start/sputtering threads and tried many of them. Running out of ideas here.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

My initial thought would be to check to make sure the AC connector and crank angle sensor connector are not swapped.

 

[pauleyman]

Did you check the trigger plate and make sure it wasn't damaged?

 

[Boomdeeze]

The car was converted to a 6 bolt and has the 1G CAS so no Crank angle sensor. The A/C was deleted and also the plug so no issue there. It is almost like the spark signal is going at the wrong time but the CAS is not 180* out and everything is connected.

 

[gst-turbo]

Are you sure the spark plugs wires are in the correct order

 

[OGDSM1989]

You did rotate the timing assembly a few times when you did the timing after the "bolt mishap' ... just making sure everything is free and moving just fine, oil pump ( I am guessing Balance shafts are eliminated ). Your sure your getting a good spark ... I would try a different coil pack and see if that helps.

 

[Boomdeeze]

Yes I swapped my plugs 1>3 & 2>4. Yes everything was spinning freely after I reassembled the engine and timed it. I the balance shaft was deleted and has the racing shaft delete rather than the stub shaft. I swapped my EVO 3 coil pack out for another coil and it did the same exact thing. I guess I haven't checked the strength of the spark after the head was put back on. Are there any other sensor that control spark with the Cam Angle Sensor that I should check?

Also is anyone able to read my log and have advise there?

 

[Boomdeeze]

Just a little update, I went through and rechecked everything tonight. I checked for spark by turning the car on and spinning the CAS by hand which did alternate the coils sparking every 1/2 turn. The IAC also made noise while spinning the CAS, is that normal?

I went through and checked the injector plugs for power which all had except one wire which I fixed. All wires had power. I have the FIC EasyTune box so one wire had 18v and the other had 12v, is this correct? I am getting fuel as all four spark plugs were wet with fuel when removed.

I rechecked my mechanical timing which is spot on. The CAS is installed correctly. I swapped out the spark plugs, plug wires and resistor pack. I messed with the deadtime to see if it made any difference which it did not. After cranking the car for 10 seconds, my WB would read right around 14.7. Is this normal without the car running? The WB is installed after the flex section so approximately 18 inches from the turbo.

Can someone please help me out, I am beyond frustrated which is probably making me miss something easy.

 

[motomattx]

I find it hard to believe that pistons met valves and nothing was damaged, compression numbers dont always tell the whole story.

 

[Boomdeeze]

The cam gear bolts on the adjustable cam gears were loose so the valves would hit and allowed the cam to stop instead of forcing the valve in to the vision enough to bend. I pulled the head and poured gas in the combustion dome and nothing leaked by the valves, so they sealed.

 

[Boomdeeze]

I am almost to the point of saying screw it and taking the head back off to replace the valves anyway. I will just buy some more OEM valves and another MLS Head Gasket and dedicated another Saturday to seeing the inside of her again..

 

[Boomdeeze]

If you look in the log I posted, when the car is not running it shows -28.9 inHg but shows close to 0 in the logs where the car actually started. Would this cause the car to not start and dump fuel? Maybe my omni4bar went bad?

 

[Type1DSMr]

Which injectors are you running? I see under your DA table with the battadj for injectors you have all the volts set at 495, change those numbers back to stock as that's way too low across all the volts. Also, you may wanna charge your battery as it's going down to 10v.

GST with PSI just posted this information in another thread for stock injbattadj values-
7 2115
9 1155
12 840
14 645
16 555
19 450

 

[Boomdeeze]

Type1DSMr- I have an FIC EasyTune box so the injectors now receive a constant voltage so that is why my settings are like that. I tested the voltage at the injector plugs and all is good there.

 

[Type1DSMr]

I have no experience with the FIC easy tune box so yeah.... However, which injectors are you using FIC 1000cc? I didn't notice the Omni bar settings changing from -28.9 to 0 in the log when the car was starting.

 

[Boomdeeze]

I am using FIC 1450s. The Omni 4 Bar is suppose to read close to 0 with the car not started but no matter what I do it stays at -28.9, I'm assuming it is dead. I ordered a new one so will report back once it arrives. Basically the car thinks is has -28.9 inHg which probably explains the amount of gas being put in the cylinders, heck that is twice as much as it has when it actually runs!