Bogging out/ Cutting out/ as soon as it hits boost..

[SavageMotors92]

I have looked at the other threads for over a week now....

(Please read everything before replying)


I had washed the "outside" of my car and took it for a drive that night...

The next morning I warmed my car up and leave the neighborhood, when I hit the straight away and got on the boost it started to sputter shake and occasionally pop...

My timing is still good "no skipped teeth"


I am not able to find anything any other posts similar to my issues..

I have replaced my O2 sensor and plugs ( gapped to .025 )



Description of issue while driving



-Car will rev to redline in neutral perfectly

-When I take off it feels good until I hit any boost whatsoever....
-It will hit 1-5-10 ( random) psi before cutting out and or popping

- I am able to drive the car just fine only in vacuum though.




I will be doing a boost leak test soon ( I already made a BLT), I just need to get a real compressor instead of this damn roadside emergency P.O.S compressor.....



What I want to know is, what are any other probable causes that excludes a boost leak?

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Plugs, wires...

 

[99ECLIPSEGSXDSM]

^ +1. That's what was happening to me when my wires were bad

 

[idkiliketurbos]

I'd agree with wires. On one of my dsm's I had the same issue where you could feel the car bucking slightly while under load but in neutral you could rev all you want. Change them out and your problem will most likely be fixed.

 

[jayson427]

Well when you washed it then went driving at night the water or moisture could of cracked a vac line and the wires could be bad like previously said

 

[TopGun8818]

I would say it's either a boost leak (often times a popped off coupler) or it needs a new fuel filter which would explain the bogging and sputtering.

 

[SavageMotors92]

Thanks for the tips guys, ill be working on it later and ill post what I did and if it wotks.

 

[black97spyder]

I had the same symptoms when one of my intercooler couplers had came loose and was leaking boost at my j-pipe. And another time at my stock Smic.

 

[gsx50501]

blt check then also check your plug gap. spark blow out so like everyone else said im sure you dont need to hear it 15X more times my buddys evo x had bad boost leak and fell on its face the same way. had you turbo honda once and had bad gap that cause blow out that caused same condition could be one or the other

 

[SavageMotors92]

I wasn't able to work on it today, I got off work too late.

But I got the plugs gapped at .025, just some new cheap o.e. plugsd

I looked visually for anything that could have popped off, then I tightened all the connections.

I guess Ill be replacing wires, and a fuel filter and next. Hopefully that solves my problems.

 

[yayocc393]

I've been having this problem too, and it's probably the plugs/wires, but ill get it when i have the money, not right now -__- good luck! Let me know if it fixes it

 

[97_4g63t]

Check for tears in your couplers too not just being on and tight. Before you just buy new wires pull them off and inspect them. Tears, cuts, not on all the way or even moisture in them. Maybe swap a friends that you know are good. Check electrical plugs for moisture or just loose. Check what you can before just guessing and buying something. Good luck bro

 

[miguelmcv]

It should be just a bad coupler not being tight enough, You will not see it on the boost leak ether if you don't use enough psi, so make sure to use enough psi to make it pop out.

Spark plugs and wires can cause some problems as well, but even with bad plugs and wires you should be able to be on boost.

A bad coupler (not tight enough) some times can hold boost and some times can't, it all depends on the moment and/or road which a lot of vibration can help to pup it out and some times they can hold when it boost smoothly.

Just do a boost leak down test with enough psi and you should be able to find it, make sure it holds pressure for a couple of minutes, if it doesn't hold then you still have a leak some where, the pressure will come down slowly which that's normal.

 

[Simadowna119]

If a coupler was blown it would most likely idle like shit and die everytime you let off the throttle. In my experience (owned 4 DSMs everyone had boost leaks at one point) if you have a vaccume leak the car will most likely surge at idle or just idle like shit, if you have a small boost leak the car should still build boost but the fall off slowely or fast depending on the size of leak, NOT cut out, and buck ect. If it only leaks under boost is should idle and run find but fall off when boosting and perhaps not build as much as it used to but not cut out and buck. But that's just my opinion from my experiences.

I would say there is a problem with the spark. Could be wires or plugs but JUST as likely it could be your ignition coil or power transistor next to the coil. Both cheap parts.

A mechanic may tell you to pull the plugs, leave them hooked up and put them on metal to see if they get spark when you crank it, but remeber it only acts up under boost so that won't tell you a damn thing.

There are misc ways to test the power transistor and ignition coil on vfaq.com

Hope this helps

 

[gsx50501]

If a coupler was blown it would most likely idle like shit and die everytime you let off the throttle. In my experience (owned 4 DSMs everyone had boost leaks at one point) if you have a vaccume leak the car will most likely surge at idle or just idle like shit, if you have a small boost leak the car should still build boost but the fall off slowely or fast depending on the size of leak, NOT cut out, and buck ect. If it only leaks under boost is should idle and run find but fall off when boosting and perhaps not build as much as it used to but not cut out and buck. But that's just my opinion from my experiences.

I would say there is a problem with the spark. Could be wires or plugs but JUST as likely it could be your ignition coil or power transistor next to the coil. Both cheap parts.

A mechanic may tell you to pull the plugs, leave them hooked up and put them on metal to see if they get spark when you crank it, but remeber it only acts up under boost so that won't tell you a damn thing.

There are misc ways to test the power transistor and ignition coil on vfaq.com

Hope this helps

a bad boost leak CAN cause it to cut out and buck, reason being the mass air flow sensor wont be affected by the boost leak the same way the engine will be ie... your mass air flow sees so many grams of air running by it lets say 8 psi yet with your boost leak you only get 4-5psi to the engine well your car is still going to give you enough fuel for 8 psi. with more fuel then air it can flood out that cyl. or more depending on how much air flows through each runner(the incoming psi is already been disrupted in its path making it harder for the fuel to atomize with the air). the buck can be after letting off the pedal and having that built up fuel igniting. My buddys evo x had 2 inch gash in the piping and it idled and ran fine until under boost. when under boost it fell on its face sputtered etc. not trying to step on toes but but do the easy checks first before you really dig in.

 

[Simadowna119]

Yeah that makes sence, not how my cars have acted with boost leaks but I get what your saying.

SavageMotors do you have a CEL? Or does the CEL flicker or come on when the problem occurs? If so diagnosing the CEL with a meter or dsmlink if you have the ecu for it may be the way to go. But if you want to just hunt for it I'd check for boost leaks, then move to ignition system, then maf, if you didn't replace the fuel filter when you bought the car then replace it and if you did then I highly doubt that's the problem.

 

[BoostKrazy]

Hey bro, its Tyler from facebook, if you wanna/think your car will make it to phoenix, me and my buddy will help you out..

 

[ToxicFlesh]

Hello everyone. Been awhile since I been on. I kinda have the same issue. I am going to do a boost leak test along with wires and plugs. Under boost if I hardly use my throttle I boost just fine. I can get my boost about 12psi. But if I give it 1/4 - 1/2 throttle it sounds like I have a popcorn machine and I lose power and boost falls flat on its face. Idles fine and drives perfect not on boost. So I should follow the same steps as you all are giving him? or does the popcorn/machine gun sound like something different? Oh, its not loud like a gunshot "bang" I didn't even hear it over my radio the first time, I felt my car shaking. Like a seizure until I backed off the throttle.

 

[Riceburning101]

stock turbo profile needs updating? i had to run the bpr6es for a day with my 16g since the parts stores around here are terrible with keeping a stock of the bpr7es. I had them gapped around .025 couldnt boost worth a shit same issues dropped the 7es's in gapped .028 and it was like a new car. never had a bad icm let me drive or rev to redline but possible.

 

[SavageMotors92]

Still waiting on a compressor, Ill have it later today.

I did break a coupler ( on the cold side of the turbo ), it was really hard an it snapped. So I got a new one. Where do the most common leaks happen?

I know I have a leak at my idle/air screw on my TB and another small leak at the BOV




There arent any check engine lights, I have had it come on twice recently though. once for the 02 and another time because the MPS was unplugged.


I will be replacing the fuel filter soon just so I know its good.


Tyler- I'll do a BLT today and change the plug wires within a couple days, if it solves my problem I'd be down to chill. if not Im pretty sure I can limp it up there.


Well I hope I got a reply to everyone, its all great information thanks...

 

[Riceburning101]

get a new o-ring for the biss screw it can affect idle and cause the issues your having. reseat that bov or use some light permatex on the flange. you would be surprised on the performance gains when the amount of boost your hitting is actually reaching the engine

 

[gsx50501]

Still waiting on a compressor, Ill have it later today.

I did break a coupler ( on the cold side of the turbo ), it was really hard an it snapped. So I got a new one. Where do the most common leaks happen?

I know I have a leak at my idle/air screw on my TB and another small leak at the BOV




There arent any check engine lights, I have had it come on twice recently though. once for the 02 and another time because the MPS was unplugged.


I will be replacing the fuel filter soon just so I know its good.


Tyler- I'll do a BLT today and change the plug wires within a couple days, if it solves my problem I'd be down to chill. if not Im pretty sure I can limp it up there.


Well I hope I got a reply to everyone, its all great information thanks...

you did have a bad coupler !! so did you put on a new one and take it for a spin yet ?

 

[SavageMotors92]

I still dont have a compressor yet, but I have tightened up my intake and BOV again (Now they For sure dont leak), then I took the car for a test drive and it will boost now up to 10-15 psi but only if I hit the throttle slowly or "pedal it" (it still wants to cut out and buck during boost, but not as bad as it was)

(It is also feeling pretty gutless in boost. )

So im guessing that I still have a boost leak still and I also need to change my wires out...

Thanks in advance for any more input...

 

[gsx50501]

I still dont have a compressor yet, but I have tightened up my intake and BOV again (Now they For sure dont leak), then I took the car for a test drive and it will boost now up to 10-15 psi but only if I hit the throttle slowly or "pedal it" (it still wants to cut out and buck during boost, but not as bad as it was)

(It is also feeling pretty gutless in boost. )

So im guessing that I still have a boost leak still and I also need to change my wires out...

Thanks in advance for any more input...

spark sounds to be your issue now

 

[arabeclipse]

Plugs should be at 0.28 and I'd check your wires too.