Bogging out/ Cutting out/ as soon as it hits boost..

[SavageMotors92]

I have looked at the other threads for over a week now....

(Please read everything before replying)


I had washed the "outside" of my car and took it for a drive that night...

The next morning I warmed my car up and leave the neighborhood, when I hit the straight away and got on the boost it started to sputter shake and occasionally pop...

My timing is still good "no skipped teeth"


I am not able to find anything any other posts similar to my issues..

I have replaced my O2 sensor and plugs ( gapped to .025 )



Description of issue while driving



-Car will rev to redline in neutral perfectly

-When I take off it feels good until I hit any boost whatsoever....
-It will hit 1-5-10 ( random) psi before cutting out and or popping

- I am able to drive the car just fine only in vacuum though.




I will be doing a boost leak test soon ( I already made a BLT), I just need to get a real compressor instead of this damn roadside emergency P.O.S compressor.....



What I want to know is, what are any other probable causes that excludes a boost leak?

 

[joeyvtec]

what kind of plugs are you running? and you might need to change them cause they could have fouled, happened to my friends evo8, ran fine then the next day it wouldnt boost and poped at like 4k. changed the plugs and it ran fine, cheap and easy, i would try that

 

[JeffroTheDSMGuy]

This seems more like a fuel issue. I'd change the filter check the pump and also the regulators have been know to go bad. Boost leaks whether it's large or small are relatively consistent. With a large leak it won't build much if any pressure and will buck and fart, and with a small leak it will usually bleed off boost pressure and only build a little or boost and drop. Just my .02

Is your stock bov still recirculated? I just noticed in your profile you have a cai. If not I've noticed these cars don't like to boost under wot with that unhooked

 

[turboglenn]

just to backup the other posts wth basic guidelines, anytime you get a clean rev with no load and then breaking up under boost it can always be traced to two places, either a bad component in the ignition or a leak in the IC piping when using a MAF system. (there is always an exception, but no matter how much i've told myself "it can't be ignition", everytime i get done troubleshooting adn fix an issue like that it's came down to something in the spark system.. i'm SD so MAF leaks can't do much but rob HP from me now..makes it worht the switch on that alone LD )
Fuel system lacking can be a cause but you shuld notice a lean AFR well before feeling it, especially if you're duplicating it and not breakign engine parts or burning holes in pistons

 

[ToxicFlesh]

My problem just got solved. I checked the spark plug wires time and time again for cuts, scrapes, cracks and so on and not once found anything.even at night to see if they were arching...But decided to change my spark plug wires just so I know it was done and what do ya know.....full boost through the rpms and WOT!!!!. I could have fixed this months ago if I would have just bought them when I bought my spark plugs. So the tech said even though I couldn't see anything wrong, there were hair line cracks from them being a little hard from the engines heat every day and when I moved my wires around I was only causing more hair line cracks that you can't see "go figure"

 

[Colt4G63 also]

Plugs, wires...

Yep, go figure...

 

[SavageMotors92]

I am trying to get money for those wires... Its not an easy mission without a J.O.B. but luckily I start a job this week...

My wires do look pretty old and greasy.... So Ill definitely get those replaced soon

My BOV recirculation tube keeps popping off my BOV!! Plastic POS...

Fixing my coupler did help a lot... but I still need a compressor for a BLT.

CEL came on twice today, the first time my maf came unclipped and the second time it is code P0110 for my IATS (Idle Air Temp Sensor)

Hopefully getting plug wires tomorrow...

 

[SavageMotors92]

check for boost leaks in your injector seals.

I did that recently with the BLT I did with the crappy compressor.. It didnt blow any bubbles with the soapy water..

Ill be checking there again once I have a "real" compressor.

 

[M4s73r]

Sounds like water/moisture in the intake system. take your intercooler pipe off the TB and turbo, blow compressed air through the intercooler piping. let it dry out. Take off your MAF, and use some CRC MAF cleaner on it. (available at advanced auto).

PS let it sit for a couple of day and the problem will fix itself.

 

[brownie956]

From the info you gave, looks like your spark plugs could have a good deal to do with it. Check to make sure you have the correct heat range. Assuming your mods are updated on your profile, you should be running BPR6ES with a .028-.032" gap. Any colder heat range is useless for what you're running and will only cause it to run less efficiently. Auto parts stores list them specifically as .031". The .025" gap is too little of a gap, and could be the culprit, or at least contributing to running crappy under boost. That'd be the first thing I would change, then move to wires, ensure you're O2 is on correctly, and boost leak test.

 

[SavageMotors92]

Thank you all for your input,

I went out and got plug wires today and it now runs great...!

GO FIGURE..

Car still feels a little slow but im guessing it is caused by a small Boost leak or my maf needs to be cleaned..

So my next thing to do will be a BLT and cleaning out my electronics..


things replaced:

plugs
wires = ( Problem+Solution )
02 sensor...

 

[talon314]

Your probably running realy rich or realy lean when you go into boost. i had this same problem and got a wideband and found out i was runnin super rich at boost