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1G Block after crankwalk

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Nosfest

Probationary Member
4
1
Jan 1, 2020
Otlando, Florida
Well, this is how the block looks after the engine crankwalked. There was still a sliver of the bearing left but most of it was gone. Yes, everything is getting replaced, just want to know if this block is still usable. I think its not but would really like to know if everyone else thinks the same. Thanks in advance for the help.

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Sadly, it is where the thrust bearing goes. Middle cap, backside of it.
 
I see it crankwalked badly. Usually when you have really bad crankwalk, you should look for another block. Perhaps still repairable/reusable but if considering about the money to recondition the block and the risk to reuse it, get another one may be cheaper.
 
Doesn't matter if 6 bolt or 7 bolt. Technically the same once if the crankwalk occurs. As I already said above that if the crankwalk was really bad one, usually you replace the block, too. But this is something hard to tell online, you should ask a machine shop who is familiar to 4g6 engine if it's still reusable or not. What I can say here is it may be safer if you would replace the block.
You should have checked the crankwalk when you felt related symptom. And shouldn't have driven the car if it was walking even a little. To rebuild the engine sooner is better. At the very beginning of crankwalk, you can still reuse even the crank. If you keep driving the car little more, you need to replace the crank. Most of people recognize the crankwalk at this moment. And then if you keep driving the car more from here, you would need another block, too.
 
If the crank touched the block where the thrust flange is supposed to be the block is junk. There are no oversized thrust bearings.

I’m sure you could have the surface machined and use some shim stock, but it’s not a 350 and this isn’t 65’.
 
My bad, forgot about this. Crank has already been thrown in the garbage. It was grounded down about 1/16” on the thrust mating surface. Thrust bearing was about to dissapear completely. It was razor thin and equally as sharp. Crank didn’t touched the block right in the middle of the thust area just the outer part because of the lip that was created by the bearing. If you put a new bearing in it doesn’t move, goes in thight. I bought the car like that. Owner thought it was probably a bad clutch but it turned out to be the crank. It had an act 2600 pressure plate in it. But, i just couldn’t resist a 2g gsx with no rust, clean title and only $4k. I’ll probably end up using that block for a stock build and just use another block for the build i want. Looking for 5-700hp out of it. Now just need to find a good reputable machine shop in my area to get it going. Haven’t been given any names in the orlando/north of orlando area.
 
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