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Crankwalk fix

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Ahhhh.... that is this fix, the pic you linked to.

If you look close at the added thrust washer, it has the roll pins in the oil grooves.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/453033-crankwalk-fix-7bolt-others.html

Yes, and I will update the tech to include the Clevite part # TW-596 S

...Instead of drilling to add the separate split thrust ....Why not just use another stock thrust bearings on the outside too? ...
...

You are welcome to try. My recollection includes:
1. you must buy a full bearing set $40-$80 to get the single item you want.
2. The Middle main having the thrust is wider than the others
3. Since it is wider it would be unsupported.

I was worried about using only the top also. The added complexity is not worth the battle in my opinion. The girdle is much further away from the flange as compared with the block.
 
Yes, and I will update the tech to include the Clevite part # TW-596 S



You are welcome to try. My recollection includes:
1. you must buy a full bearing set $40-$80 to get the single item you want.
2. The Middle main having the thrust is wider than the others
3. Since it is wider it would be unsupported.

I was worried about using only the top also. The added complexity is not worth the battle in my opinion. The girdle is much further away from the flange as compared with the block.

Yeah i was taking in assumption that the middle main was the same size as the rest. If it is bigger then the rest then there is a definite problem.

I am not a guru when it comes to building an engine but i just had a thought...
 
Sorry for the thread interuption, but: I agree 1000% with this. Regardless of the hows, whys, ifs, etc, etc of crankwalk, nobody could convince me that shoving hard on one end of the crank when everything is cold and dry is somehow a GOOD thing.

I agree to an extent, however every car with a clutch stock comes with that switch. And yet majority of them have no issues. No one can answer why crank walk happens to some and not others. . .
 
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