auto trans upgrades

[Sinister96]

just read 4 pages of a post on this topic and to new to post a reply\ question on there so have to do it here i guess. last auto i had was a zx3 focus with a diablo sport piggy back which changed the shift points among others at WOT, now ive seen ipt's shift kit and read about raising pressure and the blue wire mod which i plan to do once the other issues with trans are fixed, but my question was should i forgo the shift kit in exchange for a reprogrammed TCU for full pressure and higher shift rpm at WOT. tried to pm Bender, but again cant pm yet.
Oh one other thing, was i correct in reading that all 2g's have emprom TCU?
Thx in advance.

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

Well if i were you; I would simply just upgrade your trans cooler, end clutch kit and shift kit. follow the upgrades in the same order in which I mentioned and you should be good.

Hmmm I DK if all 2g's have an EPROM TCU. I know mine does and its a 98.

 

[dsmusmc]

This might help. Kiggly Racing - kigglyracing.com

I had a TCU that wasn't an eprom.

 

[97gst_spyder]

Not all TCU's are Eprom. Mine is out if a 96 awd and it was. But the only true way is to open it up.

I would get a shift kit before a programmed TCU.

 

[68442]

Only thing done to mine is a new end clutch and and a chipped tcu from Dave Katz. Totally changed the car. I am having him up the rpms on another chip at the moment and drove again with the stock tcu, what a slug.

Firm hard shifts over 20 to 30% throttle and very hard at 100%, get rubber in 2nd full throttle and it chirps the front left tire going into OD instead of a lazy shift.

I have a shift kit but never installed it, if I ever tear the tranny apart I might but right now I see no need.

Here is his site if curious.
http://www.foreignmuscle.com/

 

[Cirus_93TSI]

if your going to do the kiggly blue wire mod i wouldnt bother with a chipped tcu, since you dont need the tcu at all once the wiring mod is done.
my buddy is running that set up in his 1g awd auto, no tcu, blue wire mod and a ratchet shifter, with a toggle switch to activate 4th gear/od.
im sure a chipped tcu would help alot, but it seems like a waste of money if your going to be manually shifting with the blue wire mod in the future.

 

[Sinister96]

Hey thx guys, actually i was talking about Bender's blue wire mod, full pressure ONLY at WOT using TCU to control shifts, but i plan on looking into both methods more in depth.
Yesterday autzone pulled a 1175 code- solenoid error- so guess imma take out the valve body and put in a new set, so was thinking of going ahead and doing the shift kit while its out.
On another note, took my car to friends mechanic and threw it on the lift, dont see leaking anywhere but trans pan and\or maybe x-fer case. That was a relief, was told it was the front seal.

 

[knochgoon24]

I'm getting the P1750 solenoid error, but on my car, it's because the T/C lockup isn't working. You may want to see if you can recreate the error so you have an idea which part is it. Then, if for some reason it still isn't working right after the fix, you can start narrowing down your choices.


And I'd also look into a chipped TCU.

 

[Sinister96]

not sure how i would be able to "recreate" the error. it was there when i got the car i unplugged the battery to do somethings and it cleared, then came back.
I haven't got on it at all, mostly 1\4-1\2 throttle in the last 3 days ive had it. Interestingly enough today on the way home, i put it in first (gear selector) and it drove up to about 5k easy no stuttering or bogging, when its in drive itll go to about 3-4k and shift hard then get a little boggy around 3k in second with some surges. None of that happened when in in first (gear selector).
Does that shed any light on the subject for anyone?
I'm really hoping its gonna be a easy solenoid fix and not something that requires the trans took out. I can do most repairs in my driveway but pulling the trans isnt possible for me and mechanics seem to wanna charge outrageous prices these days.
One other thing, anyone think that cheap trans fluid would lead to solenoid failure? I've read about wrong type in manuals acting up but what about the auto's. I'm thinking when the trans was put in the previous onwer or mechanic was cheap and put some bad stuff in which fried the solenoids. Maybe shift solenoid to be exact.
Thx for the input everyone
Oh and imma do the shift kit, and the tcu reprog. Who do i talk to about having it done?

Just checked out EFI Performance. Wish they were closer to me or i could make it there.

 

[dsmtun3r98gst]

If you plan on doing the shift kit. One thing that I would highly recommend that you get is the 2 separator plates for the valve body. The only way to find out if you need to change them is by opening up the valve body and checking if any of the holes are worn out due to the stock steel checkball which controls the line pressure has been very active and bouncing around too much and wearing it out.(there is no fix for it other than getting new ones in case your wondering.

 

[knochgoon24]

My plate has 230,000 miles on it when I did my shift kit and showed very little wear, if any. I doubt many people would have that problem.

 

[Sinister96]

think i should pick some up locally just in case? If they show no signs of wear i can still take them back.

 

[69_luv]

Not sure if this helps you or not but I pulled my trans out in my driveway twice, it's not that bad at all, but DON'T forget to brace the engine or you will break a mount.

As far as your code have you done a boost leak test? Smooth power with gear selector in 1st but not when shifting gears in drive sounds off. I ran into your code when my trans blew a line and ran low on fluid. I caught it before it ran out but the damage was still done. But bogging in power between gears I find mostly when running really rich, I have also seen it with a exhaust leak, intercooler leak.

Just yesterday I tried to run a Walbro 255 instead of my 190 without a FPR and my wideband was all over the place, I had hesitation and bucking between gears.

Question does your power curve change at all when you are up to temp versus being cold? Has any of your transmission lines been changed, moved, replaced, do you have an after cooler, has your stock cooler been moved? If you move the stock cooler in place of a FMIC and ditched the hard lines and used the wrong tubing?

 

[Sinister96]

actually i do have an awful exhaust leak at the stock mesh part before the cat. as far as the cooler and lines i havent a clue, the trasn was replaced about 80k my a dealer, and i believe again about 2 months ago per previous owner. im 5 days into this car, i know i got the code, it shifts bad in drive, is leaking fluid, and i just heard some crazy ass noise when i started it up that rose in volume and sounded like a rod broke off then went away and drove like its been, . what did i get myself into. DSM love i guess!
oh and if the temp gauge isnt above the first line the car stalls.
Trans is top off in fluid and wount shift into 4th until i held it at 5k and let off gas, but it down shifted as smooth as i could imagine, i couldn't hear or notice it downshifting all the way to stop.

just got an offer to trade all my auto parts in "as-is" condition for a 5speed t-case and other require pieces for a swap.
should i scrap the auto idea or continue to troubleshoot?

 

[69_luv]

Wow you have a handful...
I would make a check list and we priorities. Fix exhaust leak, any boost leaks, recirculate the BOV, figure out if you are tuned, then make sure that everything is ready for upgrades. There is no point putting an aftermarket stall converter, or valves body if something else is broken and will cause premature failure of the other.

On a side note me personally would never give up an auto...

 

[Sinister96]

yea i have a laundry list of things, but the big part is finding out what exactly is wrong. Then i can find out what to fix first. Its still funny to me that it runs good and stong in when i manually put it in first.
But if its just the solenoids\tcu and a exhaust leak itll be fine.
If the exhaust leak was causing the stutter i would think it would be in all gears.
I'm having the TCU hooked up to some sort of diagnostic computer tomorrow and being took for a road test to try to get to the bottom of it.
If the the solenoids imma buy them from a dsmtuners member install and have the exhaust temporarily patch if that seems to resolve the issue ill move on to the other things mentioned. But i do wanna make sure there isnt major trans problems before i start investing in shift and end clutch kits. Dont wanna spend money on performance and then not be able to afford repairs, .