1G another shim pivot ball thread

[NHerron]

Do you have any tips on where to start measuring what -if every spec checks out on the clutch, FW, crank end play, PP, TOB. Things like trans bellhousing flange, whether the starter plate is there or not, poor bellhousing cast provision for pivot, how to even check the fork, etc

This happens from time to time on the forums even with new parts

Thanks for dropping by

 

[95GSTowner]

Pivot ball snapped off in the transmission...

It was this one: FORGED STEEL MY ASS

Makes me question the fork now...

Anyways, drilled a 1/8 hole in the center of the broken bolt in the transmission (drilled super easy, almost like alluminum) and I'm gonna pick up some easy outs tomorrow and hope it goes well.

FUUUUUUUUUUUUUU.

My Clutch Masters Pivot Ball had 0 miles on it and yet it snapped off with ease. I took pics with my crappy phone to show what happened. I tried to use an easy out and that snapped off inside it. So I had to take my transmission to a Machine Shop and he got it out. He also heli-coiled the hole for added support. Cost me $40. I bought a new OEM pivot ball, shimmed with a very thick washer and now clutch is great. Fork lines up just a lil past center towards the slave. Anyway, I just wanted to post my experience with the Clutch Masters Pivot Ball so others may be aware of the cheap quality. I think their Clutch Fork is Great though.

 

[twicks69]

This is like the third or fourth time I have seen this, what the heck torque are you tightening the pivot ball to??? Hand tight is like 12ft/lbs.

I am going to continue recommending the OEM TOB and pivot ball to be used with the Competition Clutch clutch fork. The pivot ball is not forged steel, the fork is supposedly.

 

[95GSTowner]

This is like the third or fourth time I have seen this, what the heck torque are you tightening the pivot ball to??? Hand tight is like 12ft/lbs.

I am going to continue recommending the OEM TOB and pivot ball to be used with the Competition Clutch clutch fork. The pivot ball is not forged steel, the fork is supposedly.

It was screwed in by hand and then about a 1/2 turn with a 1/4" small ratchet. One thing I will say is my clutch fork was hitting the bell housing which is why I had to shim. It was hitting the bell housing at the engagement point which was about an inch from the floor. From there I had to push with everything I had to push the pedal the rest of the way to the floor. I'm guessing that put excessive pressure on the pivot ball. I only did this about 4 times. Then removed the trans, put the socket on the ball, barely turned with 1 hand and it fell off. So it's probably safe to say it was because of the added pressure made it crack and when I turned the ratchet it snapped off. funny thing is, the previous owner drove the car around 6k miles with the fork hitting the bell housing using the oem fork & oem pivot ball and it never broke. Point is a 16 year old oem pivot ball handled it for 6k miles and the clutch masters lasted about 4 clutch pedal presses. It's proven to me that the OEM ball is stronger.

 

[Brad Bell]

Did you ever conclude if the shim worked well on your south bend clutch? I got a stage 2 daily SB clutch and am having crazy disengagement issues.

 

[twicks69]

Did you ever conclude if the shim worked well on your south bend clutch? I got a stage 2 daily SB clutch and am having crazy disengagement issues.

Brad, this is not a 420a transmission thread, you should not have to shim the F5MC1 (T350 / A578) pivot ball. The pivot ball in your transmission is a press-fit part that is splined, it should have no reason to be removed and shimmed. If the pivot ball plastic cap is worn down or egg-shaped then you would use a slide hammer and remove it with a removal tool on the slide hammer.

I'm telling you Brad, your problem is still elsewhere; either pedal assembly, or something's out of spec. Did you look at the wear pads on the clutch fork where the TOB contacts it? It is a notorious wear issue on your transmission and SRT4 T850 transmissions.

 

[Brad Bell]

Brad, this is not a 420a transmission thread, you should not have to shim the F5MC1 (T350 / A578) pivot ball. The pivot ball in your transmission is a press-fit part that is splined, it should have no reason to be removed and shimmed. If the pivot ball plastic cap is worn down or egg-shaped then you would use a slide hammer and remove it with a removal tool on the slide hammer.

I'm telling you Brad, your problem is still elsewhere; either pedal assembly, or something's out of spec. Did you look at the wear pads on the clutch fork where the TOB contacts it? It is a notorious wear issue on your transmission and SRT4 T850 transmissions.

Yes I realize the pivot ball on my transmission is a press fit design, but I don't see why you couldn't shim it with a slim washer. I replaced both the clutch fork and the pivot ball with brand new OEM ones when I installed my SB clutch a few months ago, probably only about a couple hundred miles on them.

 

[jakk220]

I get no one is right 100% of the time, but there a certain people I don't usually question on certain things. Like Justin and turbos, Ricky and tuning, Andrew and aero...to name a few. Well Tim and transmissions / clutches is one of them. Take his advice and use it if he is willing to help you.

 

[twicks69]

Yes I realize the pivot ball on my transmission is a press fit design, but I don't see why you couldn't shim it with a slim washer. I replaced both the clutch fork and the pivot ball with brand new OEM ones when I installed my SB clutch a few months ago, probably only about a couple hundred miles on them.

If you want to give it a whirl, go for it.

I typically use a Miller C-3752 slide hammer with a Miller 6891 removal tool (discontinued tool).

Here is a shade-tree way of doing it without a slide hammer (SRT4 T850 shown).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Another on a T350 with a steering wheel remover ,

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also, do some searching here - http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=collapse_topics&forum=34&page=

 

[Brad Bell]

If you want to give it a whirl, go for it.

I typically use a Miller C-3752 slide hammer with a Miller 6891 removal tool (discontinued tool).

Here is a shade-tree way of doing it without a slide hammer (SRT4 T850 shown).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Another on a T350 with a steering wheel remover ,

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Also, do some searching here - http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=collapse_topics&forum=34&page=

Thank you for the videos, I believe I have a slide hammer laying around somewhere haha.

 

[twicks69]

You could also set up a slide hammer vise grips

 

[chrysler kid]

It was screwed in by hand and then about a 1/2 turn with a 1/4" small ratchet. One thing I will say is my clutch fork was hitting the bell housing which is why I had to shim. It was hitting the bell housing at the engagement point which was about an inch from the floor. From there I had to push with everything I had to push the pedal the rest of the way to the floor. I'm guessing that put excessive pressure on the pivot ball. I only did this about 4 times. Then removed the trans, put the socket on the ball, barely turned with 1 hand and it fell off. So it's probably safe to say it was because of the added pressure made it crack and when I turned the ratchet it snapped off. funny thing is, the previous owner drove the car around 6k miles with the fork hitting the bell housing using the oem fork & oem pivot ball and it never broke. Point is a 16 year old oem pivot ball handled it for 6k miles and the clutch masters lasted about 4 clutch pedal presses. It's proven to me that the OEM ball is stronger.

FML, this describes the exact issue I'm having.

Old trans must have had a small shim in it, my new one doesn't and now at the bottom of the pedal it feels like a manual clutch cable