Pivot Ball over shimmed

[Raymos24]

Update:

I went to adjust the clutch today and after an hour of trying to adjust it, still no dice. I did exactly what Jack suggests and I turned it counter clock wise trying to get the slave to actually go in and nothing. I then proceeded to "reset" everything and I turn it clockwise all the way until the slave was as hard as a rock. I then began to turn the clutch rod counter clock wise again until the slave would go in, and I adjusted to the point where the clutch was next to the floor and the slave would only move 1/4 of an inch if that. Do you think the slave is broken? Maybe there is a ridiculous amount of air in the lines and I need to bleed them?

PS: I should probably add that when I adjusted the clutch all the way down near the firewall, the clutch pedal would struggle to come all the way back up sometimes and I needed to help it up with my foot. IT goes away if I adjust the clutch pedal higher. Do you think my master cylinder is also malfunctioning? Thanks for the help so far but it seems like adjusting the clutch did not solve the slave not going in issue.

I forgot to mention that my fluid in the resevoir got dark extremely quickly and it seems like the liquid coming out of the slave is dark also.

 

[Raymos24]

So are there any suggestions going forward with this issue? Just a reminder my slave cylinder will not depress fully not matter how my clutch rod under the firewall is adjusted. It only fully depresses if I crack open the bleeder valve.

 

[red1993gsallmt]

clutch drag is a pita, dont shim a new fork and ball

 

[PieEyedPiper]

So are there any suggestions going forward with this issue? Just a reminder my slave cylinder will not depress fully not matter how my clutch rod under the firewall is adjusted. It only fully depresses if I crack open the bleeder valve.

The only way that the slave will not depress is if the bleeder hole is covered. So, that means if you've adjusted your master to both extremes and never found the threshold that will allow you to manually depress the slave that there is still something wrong with the adjustment of the master. I mean, I'm assuming both cylinders are in good working order here, but there's really no other cause for this.

Has the master ever been rebuilt? Is it a parts store master or OEM? It's possible the rod included with yours, if it isn't OEM, isn't giving you enough adjustment.

 

[ed1380]

An overshimmed pivot ball will always put pressure on the fingers(not good) Shimming the slave back is the best solution short of removing the transmission.