2G Competition Clutch Pivot Ball

[Mauispyder]

Hi,
This question is for anyone that has used the completion clutch fork and pivot ball.
The pivot ball ships with what looks like a nylon washer on it. I’m just trying to find out if I leave it on or take it off. The directions don’t specify. They do have a picture of a pivot ball with the nylon washer on though. Included is a picture of the ball and washer I got, lying on the directions that have the picture. Mine is the bigger one with the bent up washer.
TIA!
Edit I can’t upload the picture currently

 

[twicks69]

Take off the washer please.

 

[Mauispyder]

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[Mauispyder]

Take off the washer please.

Thanks !!
I almost pm’d you

 

[er82]

Check that the clutch fork is centered. I swapped transmissions and had to shim the fulcrum. Also dont overtorque it, it snaps off.

 

[twicks69]

It should be hand tight, like 8-10 ft/lbs is plenty. It is not going anywhere.

You should only be shimming the pivot if your flywheel is out of spec due to being resurfaced, or if there is another component having a problem/ out of spec as a bandage fix.

 

[Mauispyder]

Got it, I know how the oem sits in there. So I was taken aback when I saw the CC ball had a bent up plastic washer on it. Then the IKEA-like directions showed a pivot ball with a nylon washer, so I figured I better ask. I’d have measured the height of oem as well since it’s essentially unworn. And I use all new components every time since it costs more here to get something machined properly than to get it brand new (anyone need a couple of flywheels?). Actually I am reusing my two year old fork boot

 

[twicks69]

The OEM pivot ball and the Competition clutch version are identical other than material. Be sure to not over torque the Competition one, as I have seen them shear before from people putting more than 12 ft/lb on them. I have sheared 4 or 5 on install back in the day.

Also, do not use any loctite on the screw that holds the spring clip on to the fork, simply go hand tight with a screwdriver. Historically, Competition Clutch would send it assembled with the pivot ball and washer installed in the fork. If you tried to remove the screw, it would shear because they used green loctite sleeve retainer on it (dumb), and you would have to put the fork in a vise, then use a body panel trim tab removal tool to pop it out without damaging the spring clip. Good times.

 

[Mauispyder]

Yuk, makes oem look more attractive