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Alternator relocation and wiring

Posted by barza21, Feb 22, 2018

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  1. barza21

    barza21 Proven Member

    Joined Oct 11, 2006
    Fairbanks, Alaska
    Hey guys,

    Sharing some information in regards to the alternator relocation option for a 1g dsm. I purchased the alternator relocation kit from Jay racing. I opted to go with a saturn alternator as well. The kit for the saturn alternator is slightly different: the adjustment rod is shorter. With that being said, make sure that you purchase the correct alternator. I made the mistake of purchasing an alternator for a 1999 Saturn SC2 1.9L DOHC. The problem with this year alternator (1999) is the model: CS121. That model alternator does not have a screw hole that you would use to screw the adjustment rod bolt into. So far, from what I have found (somebody correct me if I am wrong), only the CS130 alternator style is the only one that has that screw hole machined into the housing (therefore I ended up returning CS121 and replacing with CS130 which is from a 1996 year model)

    Also, after doing a lot of reading about the wiring involving this mod, I found that a lot of people would have issues with voltage being low after the install. I have completed this modification and would like to share a little bit for information. Currently my idle sits at 700-750 rpm and my volts are between 14.2-14.3 at idle (with headlights on). Once rpm go up, volts go up to ~14.5. I currently have it wired as folows:

    F wire = 12v switched power from Cigarette lighter fuse.
    L wire = black/white wire from original alternator wiring.
    S wire = I haven't connected it, but I wired it into the cabin in case I want to experiment down the line.
    Alternator post = 4awg wire to distro bus where old alternator wires used to be.

    The "S" wire is the one I had my doubts about. Some people use it and some don't. I opted to string the wire, but will stow it for future use.

    One thing that jumped out to me in a lot of the articles that I read is that nobody would mention the grounding of the alternator itself very much. Jay's instructions state to remove some of the material for the bolts that hold the bracket, but I am not sure that is enough (seeing as the alternator body itself doesn't make direct contact with the bracket due to the paint on the bracket). So, what I did was sand (to expose bare metal) the contact point between the block and the bracket, and the bracket and alternator body (on the sides where the long bolt goes through). This ensured that there is a complete path to ground through the body of the alternator. After completing that, I got the results that I listed above.

    I hope this helps people that will attempt this mod down the line.



    Remember to disconnect the old alternator wires and cap them away or remove them completely from the car.
  2. godschylde777

    godschylde777 Proven Member

    Joined Jun 3, 2009
    houston, Texas
    Hi, I just ran into an issue. I have the Jay's alt relocation, but I think I have the wrong kit. I bout It a while ago. I have a Saturn alt, the one you have. I just destroyed the fan fins on it. They hit on the sub-frame. I believe I can remedy the issue by changing belts. What size is the belt you are using? Or is their a way to get rid of the fan?

    1K  0

    1997 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 2G DSM
  3. Planckscale

    Planckscale Proven Member

    Joined Oct 16, 2007
    Tanzania, Africa
    I hope this is note off topic, but I thought, I should ask here rather than open a new thread...
    If you move the alternator to the back (compressor location), how do you get to it for repair work/replacement?
    Because I don't see how you could get to it back there without dropping the engine...
  4. ThunderChild

    ThunderChild Supporting VIP

    Joined Jan 5, 2012
    Rathdrum, Idaho
    I had to take mine out from where the starter is at, which also required the downpipe be removed. It sucks. I took my kit off and put the alt back in the front, much easier to deal with, especially with the cyclone manifold etc.

    Street Build 113  3

    1990 Plymouth Laser N/T
    fwd · manual · 1G DSM

    233  8

    1987 Toyota Pickup/Hilux
    awd · manual · Misc Vehicles

    Street Build 745  7

    1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM

    Street Build 944  1

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 2K  10

    1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  5. Vegas smith

    Vegas smith Proven Member

    Joined Dec 2, 2002
    Houston, Texas
    On my 1g with a 1g intake manifold you can barely finagle it straight up and out of the engine bay. I have done this a couple of times. I just unbolt the PTU, coil and push the wiring harness out of the way.

    Street Build 3K  10

    1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  6. TSiAWD666

    TSiAWD666 Freelancer

    Joined Aug 15, 2003
    Herndon, Virginia
    If I recall correctly I pulled the half shaft out which is personally think is a bi***. I had the transfer case and downpipe off for other reasons and don't recall if they are necessary to get the half shaft out.

    Road Race Build 13K  12  371

    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    377 whp · 416 lb/ft · 2G DSM
  7. d1prospect

    d1prospect Proven Member

    Joined Mar 14, 2004
    Glen Bunie, Maryland
    Loved the relocation idea, until I had to actually change mine. Not worth the hassle unless you absolutely need the space up front. I almost ended up noticing my frame on my 2g to accommodate but that wasn’t right. So I put my alt back up front. My apologies for chiming I’m on your thread.

    Drag Race Build 3K  15

    1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST
    fwd · manual · 2G DSM
  8. Macgyver'sDSM

    Macgyver'sDSM Proven Member

    Joined Feb 20, 2017
    On the lake, Wisconsin
    Removing my throttle body and a section of my intercooler pipe I am able to sneak the alternator under my intake manifold. I would imagine if you have a stock size battery tray that would have to be removed also.

    Street Build 2K  10

    1995 Eagle Talon TSi
    awd · manual · 2G DSM
  9. Planckscale

    Planckscale Proven Member

    Joined Oct 16, 2007
    Tanzania, Africa
    Boy...there are serious issues with this mod. Sounds like people have been internalizing the pain of doing this mod for too long!
    Some have found a way to get to it, but with lots of pain :mad:. I think I am going to holdout for now and find away to funnel cool air in there instead. I already got the exhaust manifold, use a non-stainless o2 housing, and Wrap the down pipe and o2 housing. But it is still hot ...I need to do more.
  10. llxkevinxll

    llxkevinxll Proven Member

    Joined Jan 29, 2012
    Cleveland, Ohio
    Throwing in my two cents for anyone considering this swap...

    1. The Jay racing kit comes with a bracket to move the ps pump to the outer portion of the pulley. Don't use this. Leave the ps pump in the factory location and instead wrap a 315mm belt around the crank and water pump. No tensioner obviously so it will be tight but allowing the ps pump belt to wrap 180 degrees around the pulley helps with throwing belts. Which mine did frequently before moving it back to factory mounting.

    2. The 'S' wire mentioned in the first post is the alternator "sense" wire. Without it, it does not know how much or how little to charge. Attach this to your battery positive terminal. This allows the alternator to 'sense' the system load. When fans come on and you turn the radio on, the voltage at the battery will droop some, the alternator sees that and supplies more current to compensate.

    Autocross Build 2K  3

    1996 Eagle Talon TSi AWD
    13.06 @ 105.75 · 2G DSM

    Street Build 1K  1

    1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    awd · manual · 1G DSM
  11. diambo4life

    diambo4life Proven Member

    Joined Apr 18, 2002
    Edmond, Oklahoma
    This is from my post on the .ORG about my install in the VR4 which is probably a little tighter than a 1G. If you are lazy, read below. :)

    Last edited: Jun 6, 2018

    Drag Race Build 515  1

    1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    manual · 1G DSM

    Street Build 3K  24

    1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
    710 whp · 501 lb/ft · Galant VR-4
  12. TSiAWD666

    TSiAWD666 Freelancer

    Joined Aug 15, 2003
    Herndon, Virginia
    Right, it's a pain to do but there are reasons to put yourself through it. For me I needed to do it to make room for my turbo system, a BW EFR 7670 with internal gate turbine housing which is reeeally wide. It made it so the downturn of the o2 housing would hit the alternator in the OEM location. Another reason to do it is for heat due to proximity with the exhaust, especially aftermarket ones even when those were wrapped. While I personally made a heat shield for my alternator that worked perfectly, many people never think of it or bother to make one, and opt instead to move the alternator to the backside of the block to avoid the heat altogether.

    As mentioned above don't use that bullshit offset power steering bracket with the jay racing kit, but instead use three belts. Here are the belts you will need:

    Alternator to Crankshaft Pulley: Bando 4PK 830 (other numbers 4040327 and 327K4)
    Power Steering to Water Pump: MD310617 (also Dayco 20-8993)
    Water Pump to Crankshaft Pulley: Napa 25-040320 (also Bando 4PK 817, Gates K040320)

    The water pump to crank belt will need to be walked onto the crank, which can be done with care by hand, or a screw driver, or better yet a tool for walking belts on. I screwed it up three times and each time had to loosen the water pump to get the belt off and start over (which in itself is a pain because you can only get a wrench on the bolts due to the frame rail).

    Road Race Build 13K  12  371

    1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
    377 whp · 416 lb/ft · 2G DSM
  13. Planckscale

    Planckscale Proven Member

    Joined Oct 16, 2007
    Tanzania, Africa
    Your advice well taken. My biggest concern is on how to get to it for repairs...

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