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2G Starter and alternator wiring

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goldeninja20

10+ Year Contributor
589
3
Dec 5, 2010
Norton, Massachusetts
I would like to improve upon my starter and alternator wiring. I did a battery relocation and have a distribution stud in my engine bay. I want to run 4 gauge straight from starter to the stud (is this sufficient?). As for my alternator wiring, what should i do? I was thinking 4 gauge from alternator to fuse box and 4 gauge from fuse box to distribution stud. But doesnt the alternator go to 2 spots on the fuse box, so should i run 2 4 gauge wires from alternator to fuse box.
 
I picked up 25 feet of 0 gauge wire for the battery relocation. I wont need all 25 feet to do the relocation, I will have some left over. Will 0 gauge be overkill for starter to 12v post in engine bay? Is there such thing as overkill when it comes to wiring?
 
0 gauge is fine but kinda overkill. 4 gauge would have been fine. Is it CCA or pure stranded copper wire?
 
there is no downside for going heavier except the weight and the hassle of running the larger wire. usually its a step up in gauge for every 20 ft to prevent voltage drop. I have done a bunch of battery relocation's and wiring work and the 4 gauge has worked fine. Only time I have ever had to go thicker was on a 3000gt vr4 with a aem ems that was picky with the voltage it had to see to start the car.

One thing to think about is if your running everything to a distribution block and the battery is is in the trunk to make sure the wire and the distribution block is well protected to prevent shorting it out.

also when you did the battery relocation is this a track car? if it is make sure you did the approved nhra method for battery relocation. it used to be they would let it slide but in the last few years they have gotten a lot stricter about it and its hard to lie when they see no battery under the hood.
 
there is no downside for going heavier except the weight and the hassle of running the larger wire. usually its a step up in gauge for every 20 ft to prevent voltage drop. I have done a bunch of battery relocation's and wiring work and the 4 gauge has worked fine. Only time I have ever had to go thicker was on a 3000gt vr4 with a aem ems that was picky with the voltage it had to see to start the car.

One thing to think about is if your running everything to a distribution block and the battery is is in the trunk to make sure the wire and the distribution block is well protected to prevent shorting it out.

also when you did the battery relocation is this a track car? if it is make sure you did the approved nhra method for battery relocation. it used to be they would let it slide but in the last few years they have gotten a lot stricter about it and its hard to lie when they see no battery under the hood.

Not a track car. More or less it is because i dont have the bracket the battery sits on and it will clean up my bay. I want to run 0 gauge just because i feel safe. My ecu only has 13.3 volts right now with the battery in the front. I like the assurance of 0 gauge wire. As for starter, my wire now will be too short (so im going to need to redo it. I also have circuit breaker i will be running in-line from battery to distribution post.

As for alternater wiring, Can i just run 1 wire to the fusebox, the factory has 2 white wires i believe, Could i just run 1 4 gauge wire from alternator to distribution post with an inline fuse and skip the fuse box?
 
the two white wires are 8 gauge so 1 four would be fine to replace them with. i just use an all copper crush on end on mine and go right to the bolt on the fuse box.
 
havent looked at them in a while but i believe they both go to the one side of the alternator fuse in the box
 
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