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Aftermarket Valve springs

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Inverted540

Probationary Member
25
0
Jul 28, 2005
Arvada, Colorado
OK i bought a stage 3 1g cylinder head and there is the option of getting aftermarket valve springs. Is it worth an extra 200 dollars and if so what is the benefit of the aftermarket springs?
 
This entirely depends on what you're planning for your car.

If you plan on running a "hot" cam such as a 272/FP2 or FP3 on your 2.0 liter you may want to seriously look at them.

If you plan on revving past 8k on a cam like that, you should almost definitely get upgraded springs.

However if they are Crower springs, I'd suggest going with either a better spring, or not getting them.

None of the above are written in stone rules, however they seem to be the general guidelines people follow. Valve springs are one of those things that are not always "neccesary" but are WAYY cheaper/easier to have done while you're doing the rest of the head, rather than taking it all back apart, just to change springs.
 
Very well put. Depending on how high you want to rev it and what cam's you are going to use it isn't a must. With my built motor I have right now with HKS 264/272 setup I am still using the stock springs because I won't turn it over 7200 at most. Took them out and tested them and they hadn't sagged at all and retained there spring pressure. Once again it just depends on your style of driving and what you want to do with it.
 
I plan on using hks 272/272 camshafts. I will be running dsmlink and have all the mods done. What is a good set of springs?
 
Inverted540 said:
I plan on using hks 272/272 camshafts. I will be running dsmlink and have all the mods done. What is a good set of springs?

I would take a look at SuperTechs or the springs EnginTecs offers.
 
Valve springs are needed if you rev up your engine past your normal redline. If you've just invested into a head and have an option to add them on for that price, you might as well, especially if you are going with some aggresive cams. In the long run, it'll be one less thing to worry about.
 
If you get cams that have higher lift or longer duration than the stock cams your going to want heavier/stronger springs to make sure you get the valve closed before the piston hits them and to keep you from experiencing valve float. Even if you are not reving past the stock redline.
 
I actually run the manley springs and titanium retainers from sbr. These are mated to comp 101200's and holding ferrea 1mm os stainless valves. I rev between 8-8500 rpm and havent had any issues. They have also seen 9k rpm a few times but are still holding strong.

The crowers are single spring just as my manleys are. I dont have any first hand experience with crower springs but crower has always been a good manufacturer. I wouldnt use their cams because of the small size but beyond that, most of their parts are top notch.

drivemusicnow Why do you dislike the crower springs? I think you should explain your issues if you are going to advise against them.
 
I had a set of Cower springs for my Integra Type R. They were dual springs, however. Nonetheless, they handled my constant reving of 12K. As for their single springs for the Eclipse, my buddy has them matched with titanium retainers and HKS 272/272 cams and they work great-he runs it hard daily and has had no head problems in over a year and a half. Crower offers great products, IMO.
 
ISUJakey said:
Crowers are single springs. I believe there are better options than the Crowers. More information: http://www.engintecs.com/html/valve_springs.html

Good research but how many people really understand what they are saying? Does anyone here asking really understand the harmonics of valve springs other than me? And does anyone understand the point of having higher closed and open spring pressures?


Well, all valve springs have harmonics(results in valve chaffing, sunken valves, pitted seats, high rpm valve flutter, etc) but hasnt been a proven issue with dsm's or many ohc applications for that matter.

As far as installed pressures, thats all good but increasing open pressures that much could be detrimental to performance and parts. Just think, open pressure for a hydraulic cam should be around 150-200 lbs. Now, increase that by 33% and what do you have? All of a sudden, it just went to 200-266 lbs so what do you think the hydraulic lifter does under extreme pressures? It either fails or bleeds down, ultimately causing valve lift to be less than what it should be. It sounds like a good sales pitch but realistically, Its almost worthless unless they also offer a good hydraulic lifter to stand up to their aggressive springs.

Just my .02 so if anyone with some experience in engine tech and experience with these particular springs, please chime in.
 
92awddsm said:
I actually run the manley springs and titanium retainers from sbr. These are mated to comp 101200's and holding ferrea 1mm os stainless valves. I rev between 8-8500 rpm and havent had any issues. They have also seen 9k rpm a few times but are still holding strong.

The crowers are single spring just as my manleys are. I dont have any first hand experience with crower springs but crower has always been a good manufacturer. I wouldnt use their cams because of the small size but beyond that, most of their parts are top notch.

drivemusicnow Why do you dislike the crower springs? I think you should explain your issues if you are going to advise against them.

The Link ISUJakey provided is from Engintecs website. Mitch (Suparata on here) is building my motor, and has posted physical data of force at X length of both Crowers, Stock, and the ones he uses. (Search nabr archives... it is not exactly the most uhh... polite WTF thread, but the info is there)

I'm not going to turn this into an advertisement for him, however I respect and trust him more than 99% of the people in the DSM world, and he has given me every reason to do so.

To the original poster. I would not go with the Crower springs. If you do plan on reving past 8000 on a consistant basis, I'd suggest trying to find other springs (ferrea, or talk to Mitch) or at least getting the stockers shimmed slightly, and checked for coil binding with 272s (shouldn't, but just make sure)
While I don't think this is the best solution, talk to your machinist and see what he thinks. Afterall, hes the one who will be doing the work, you don't want to ask him to do something hes not comfortable doing.
 
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