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Aftermarket ball joints that change the roll center?

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Front outer tie rods and ball joint spacers for a 1.5" drop on a Volvo S60R.

The ball joint spacer may be confusing you, I think our ball joints are different. For an R, the pivoting bolt faces down and uses 2 bolts on the side to bolt it into the upright so you have to put a spacer between the ball joint and the upright to correct geometry. It will still utilize stock ball joints and stock control arms.
 
Front outer tie rods and ball joint spacers for a 1.5" drop on a Volvo S60R.

The ball joint spacer may be confusing you, I think our ball joints are different. For an R, the pivoting bolt faces down and uses 2 bolts on the side to bolt it into the upright so you have to put a spacer between the ball joint and the upright to correct geometry. It will still utilize stock ball joints and stock control arms.

It's unfortunate that this design isn't more common. Would make roll center adjustments so much simpler.
 
This is from a bmw m3 e 46 , this is what we all are after right a kt that fits right in .

http://rejsa.nu/im/_garaget/7274_2010-03-24-dsc04239.jpg

http://rejsa.nu/im/_garaget/7274_2010-04-20-dsc04293.jpg

/A
Hmmm, here's a thread with more info on those photos:
Bimmerworld E36 Roll Center Correcting Control Arm Install

Wonder if we can come up with a solution that involves a press in lower bushing/sleeve with minimal modification to the lower control arm - preferably without welding - that would allow for the necessary longer ball joint stud. Maybe like a combination of a CNC bushing and a smaller than OEM ball joint housing and longer stem. The bushing could even be offset to help with the angle.
 
I bought a Vette instead of a DSM so I won't be designing it.
 
Sorry guys, I never received a reply from Pitstop. I'll get back to it at some point here. Don't have too much extra time or money to throw at it, and nobody is very helpful. I'll see if I can send some notes to the manufacturers instead of the dealers.[DOUBLEPOST=1407425967,1403793842][/DOUBLEPOST]Finally got Howe to reply... their smallest diameter press in ball joint body that will accept the longer Chrysler shank we need measures 1.925" wide, meaning that's the size of the hole it will need. Our stock ball joint body width measures 1.571" from what I was told. I'm not sure if reaming the hole in the control arm that much would be safe, as it seems like that would cause it to be a little weak for the stresses of hard driving at the track. Thoughts?
 
Have to do some meusering but 1,925 thats almost 50 mm right ? only have my polk arms at house for the moment but eyeballing them there seems to be plenty of room ( my arms dosent look anything like the polk ones pictured earlier in this thread, but i have the complete subframe ) From what i remeber the stock arms i think there should be room and also if you weld in the reciver it should be strong or atleast i think it will be .

Best regards A
 
Have to do some meusering but 1,925 thats almost 50 mm right ? only have my polk arms at house for the moment but eyeballing them there seems to be plenty of room ( my arms dosent look anything like the polk ones pictured earlier in this thread, but i have the complete subframe ) From what i remeber the stock arms i think there should be room and also if you weld in the reciver it should be strong or atleast i think it will be .

Best regards A
It would really be nice if the stock arms could be used without too much modification. If it was a matter of reaming out the stock hole and just reinforcing it for strength that would be a good solution. But the less modification the more accessible this will be for more DSMers. I really need to find a cheap/free OEM control arm to mess with.
 
Did some rough meusering today and i do think that it should fit stock arms without to mutch problem, the ridge that the balljoint pressures against is likely around 50 mm so that will have to go but there is plenty room after that and if you weld in the insert strength should not be compromised.

/A
 
I have a couple questions in regards to the weld in sleeve for the Chrysler style screw in ball joints.

I just ordered the sleeves so I can weld them onto my LCA's. Before I cut them up, how did you all set up placement for the sleeves? Do I just center the sleeve over the factory ball joint hole, Mark the edges of the sleeve and cut? Did anyone do it this way or was there a different approach?

Also, I recall someone posting that the extended ball joint stud could possibly touch or rub on itself or the sleeve due to the angle of the LCA... Now I know that the factory ball joint sits on a flat plane in relation to the rest of the LCA... When welding in my sleeves, should I add some angle to it to keep the stud from possibly hitting/rubbing? IIf so, how much?
 
make a plug on a lathe could be made out of delrin or aluminium or whatever one side the same size as our balljoint and the other the size of the new reciever , this way it will plug in to the lca and make a perfekt fit and the bigger diameter will press against the top of the lca now mark around it with a pen or something to etch the metal, think this should work it would be perfect centered and then you just grind it out. angle is hard to say and you will probably have to test this before you weld it

put it in an agle and spotweld it then remove spring from suspention and test max and min travel without binding

/A
 
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I'm going to be addressing this with a weld in solution soon.

Donk, any chance you can post some pictures of your polk subframe/arms? I'm curious as to how they're different than the scrap I pulled off my chassis.
 
sure ,bad pictures let me know if you want m
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ore
 
I am in the process of modding some stock front control arms. I plan on installing a heim joint in the front and a sold steel bushing in the rear. I will also install the threaded ball joint in it. My question is what is the extended size of ball joint do I use? I lowered the car less than 1"
Rick
 
I made a jig for the lower control arms. At the moment I am working on installing 3gen master cylinder and brake booster. I thought the brake booster was more important than the lower control arms at this point.
Rick
 
Here's an example of the K772 screw in ball-joints on my 1990 GSR-4 (JDM Eclipse GSX). The rubber boots are just stacked like a sandwich to keep the ball joint relatively sealed. The top boot is original and the bottom one is QA1.

I also found an EASY fix for bump steer. It turns out that a bump steer kit for a 2005-2010 Ford Mustang bolts right on and has the right taper. I only had to cut 1" off of the threads on the the inner tie rod (outer side). This setup will work well. I used parts from QA1.

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And yes, those are Evo8 Ohlin coilovers on the car with SCE's adapter kit for 3000GT VR-4. It works perfectly too.

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That is excellent!

>edit< I cannot find any info on those coilovers...
 
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