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1G act 2900 won't disengage

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jpdsm92

10+ Year Contributor
83
0
Nov 4, 2011
toontown, SK, Canada
Well i bought a finazda fly wheel, act 2900pp and 6 puck SPRUNG disk with extended rod. Installed on a fresh magnus transmission. For the life of me I can't get this thing to go into gear. with the clutch not depressed the fork seats about 1/4" off center towards the driver side. when depressed it goes over to where i can just get my finger between the external housing and the fork.

I've tryed bleeding the system. I've checked for leaks. I've adjusted the master road out to it's max give.. NO i didn't shim as the fork sits to the driver side of center. Yes i've watched jacks video.


HELP TRYING TO GET THIS THING TO A SHOW TOMMOROW
 
Proper step height on the flywheel?
Also, what was your method for bleeding?
What condition is your pedal assembly in?

flywheel is in correct step.

method:
1-push clutch to floor.
2-place bar to hold right to floor
3-crack bleeder nipple on slave into a jar
4-tighten nipple
5-refill res. if need
6-pull peddle SLOWLY UP and SLOWLY depress

7- REPEAT
 
if i put the clutch to the floor just barely wants to go forward.
 
What barely goes forward? The slave cylinder? If so, it sounds like you still have a bunch of air in the line. I would suggest you re bleed the line with the help of a friend.
 
the car.


i put it in first. put the clutch to the floor and start it and she barely moves.
 
...what was your reasoning behind using a slave cyl. extension rod? The extended rod is to band-aid a bigger issue and is never recommended as it puts constant pressure on the release bearing.

Does the pedal feel firm or spongy?

Did you use all the transmission bolts, including the 12mm bolt down by the starter, and torque them?

:dsm:
 
What could be possible is that the throw from the rod is over extending the pressure plate fingers.

Can you shift into gears at the transmission?
 
4-spring or 6-spring disc? And new style or old style pressure plate?

I'e seen issues with the old style pressure plates being run with the 4-spring discs. The larger springs interfered with the diaphram fingers and wouldn't allow the clutch to disengage. Consquently, it wouldn't allow any gear changes and forcing it resulted in plasticized syncros.
 
4-spring or 6-spring disc? And new style or old style pressure plate?

I'e seen issues with the old style pressure plates being run with the 4-spring discs. The larger springs interfered with the diaphram fingers and wouldn't allow the clutch to disengage. Consquently, it wouldn't allow any gear changes and forcing it resulted in plasticized syncros.

it's the 4 spring 6 puck.

I did notice if i back off the adjustor arm it wants to slid into gear a bit easier. But i didn't think OVER extending could be a issue?
 
Did you buy the PP brand new (recently) or is it an older model?

Bought a brand new one.. 99gsx i think your right.. i took the extend rod out.. put the stock on in.. started it in gear and she creeps even less forward like not at all basicly.. i can feel it when i start the car but once it's started it doesn't move.
 
Yup, sounds like it's dragging and not disengaging. There's a few possibilities as to why though. I'd pull the trans and double check step height and make the the fork isnt bent. And also check the spings on the disc for contact wear.

Putting the stock rod back in and adjusted the master properly and it works decent now!!
 
Well i'm still having engagement issues. I noticed a TINY TINY leak from the master, So i'm replacing it, the slave. and gonna order a fork and pilot ball just to have incase.
 
I've run into a similar issue when I installed a new disk that didn't slide easily on the input shaft. It was always pressed against the flywheel.

I fixed it the wrong way; by dropping the clutch a couple times, and doing a couple hard downshifts. That freed it right up.
 
well I had a tiny leak in the master that i wanna fix.. so your saying you had some disengagment issues and you basicly kicked the hell out of it to fix it?
 
Yes, that's what I'm saying. I know it wasn't the right way around it, but I didn't want to pull the transmission back off and file whatever burr made my disk so difficult to slide onto the input shaft. The clutch ended up lasting the typical amount of time anyway.

I just started the car in gear, and pulled outside and did a couple AWD launches as if I was trying to break the tires loose in the burnout box, then went for a ride doing a couple downshifts with sudden clutch engagements. It loosened it right up, and solved the problem permanently.

I should have noticed there was something wrong and stopped when the transmission didn't really slide on freely, but I hate working on my own cars, and it was probably really really late.
 
Well, a bit of a update. still having trouble.

1-ordered new slave,master,tob,clip,pivot ball and forged fork,speed bleeder for slave.

2- installed slave and speed bleeder, Bleed the hell out of it.

3-noticed a leak coming from inside of master now a decent one, So i will be putting the new master in if this doesn't work them i'll pull the transmission.
 
You need to pull the clutch and flywheel out, then put the assembly back together and in a press. Push on the fingers to release the clutch. Make sure you have plenty of release clearance before the fingers hit the spings and stuff. I'd guess You'd wan't like .030" release clearance. I don't really know, but I'm sure ACT would know. BTW the 2900's aren't known for releasing the best.
 
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