ABS Problem buzzing motor [Merged 7-9]

[Tra2xx]

Hey all, yesterday when I started my car for some reason my ABS light came on. I haven't needed to use it or anything... it just kinda turned on when I started my car in the afternoon to go home. Anyways, all last night whenever I got in my car and went somewhere the light would come on, and when I turned my car off there was a little sound of a pump. Anyways this morning it had been doing it all night long, and the noise is coming from that brass ABS housing (I'm assuming some sort of ABS pump??) and my battery is dead now. Anyone know what the deal with my abs is?

Thanks in advance.

-David

 

[Gh0zTeR]

Yatzee!
Taping worked!

thank you for your help

 

[DSM_Roller]

the tapping should be a temp fix. Go find some good relays now! (same thing happened to me)

 

[FlashBurn]

Same issue just happened to me today, ABS light is on, pump running when the car is off.

Thanks for the tip sinclair, a little tapping worked great for me. About how much did replacing the relays cost you, and was it too difficult?

 

[DSM_Roller]

easy, here's a pic

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[FlashBurn]

Yeah, I popped the cover off the relay box and looked there myself yesterday. I removed and reinserted the relays, and the light went away, no more ABS motor running. Perhaps they had become unseated or something. In any case, no more problem for now.

Thanks for the pic though, should help anyone else with issues.

 

[djpurpose]

I was driving my car and my abs light pop'd on. I figured I was a little low on fluid and decided to stop and check my fluid. The fluid was fine, but after I turned off my car I had a buzzing sound coming from it. I went inside and came back to the car a few hours later and it was still buzzing. I narrowed the sound to the ABS motor (pump?) on the front driver side wheel well. As a temp fix I pulled the 50A fuse from the fuse box under the hood. I'm at work and I will attempt to drive home without the ABS. Any ideas what would cause this? I did a search but didn't find anything.

Thanks

Rick

 

[B-lackGSX99]

This happened to me on my old 3000gt. Basically the relay has gotten stuck on your abs pump and if you leave the fuse in, it will run till it burns itself out. I had to have the abs pump fixed, although I was basically told that it was going to happen again, as the issue was just a part of the vehicle. I pulled the fuse so that it wouldn't run the fixed pump, and purchased a rebuilt backup pump online to have just in case (overkill, I know).

While going through the ordeal, the mechanics that "fixed" the pump basically said they just cleaned off the relay that was stuck. Give that a shot, may work for you. Best of luck.

 

[Nofear20]

Hi. Ive had my car for about 3 weeks now (97 gst) and a few minutes ago I left my friends house and noticed the Antilock light was on. So I drive home, turn off the car, and there was like a really loud buzzing noise coming from the front left side of the car. It sounded like it was coming from the brake area. The only way to get this noise to stop was to disconnect the battery. So I disconnected it, and plugged it back in. I started the car and let it run for a minute and it sounded fine. So I go to take out the car for the test drive, and when I am in reverse and getting ready to pull out of the driveway, the car starts idling so low that it about died. I let it run for a couple more minutes, and then took it out for a drive and it seemed fine. Whats the deal here guys? Please help!

 

[yokotabrat]

The ABS relay usually causes this problem. It should be above/near the ABS pump in the front drivers side of the car. On a 1g it's in a black box mounted above the ABS pump. You can usually get it to stop running by tapping on the relay, however this will be a temporary fix most likely. They're fairly pricey from the dealer, so if you get a new one be prepared to spend $150+.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

I know that a lot of people on the forum recommend disconnecting the ABS anyway, would that solve his problem if he just yanked the ABS fuse and disengaged ABS all together??

 

[yokotabrat]

Sure, pulling the fuse should fix the problem also. From what I've heard the 2g ABS works fairly well (at least compared to a 1g) so if you get a lot of rain or snow, I don't know that disabling the ABS would be a good idea.

 

[95CarbonEclipse]

Yea... Personally I'm mixed on the issue as well. My ABS light comes and goes, so I think it's something simple like a wheel speed sensor or something like that.

 

[thesmartestyet]

there is a buzzing like noise coming from my abs controler box and does stop unless you unhook the baterie and if i leave the batterie hooked up then it will die what could it be?

 

[KBeast666]

Wow, it's been a while since I owned a DSM (god I missed it), and it's good to be back. I recently purchased a 95 AWD Talon that wasn't running. After getting it running all things seemed ok, until I backed it out of the shop. The abs light came on before I even went 10 feet. I pulled the car back in the shop (I work for a Dodge dealer) and hooked up the DRB w/ the proper mitsubishi connector to the ODBII port. The second diagnostic port is missing for some reason and another tech in the shop said that was normal and depended on the manufacturing date of the car and to just use the one plug and leave the other one hanging. When I tried to pull the trouble codes from the ABS module it showed 3 DTCs. I was only able to view 2 of them when the codes just erased themselves and the light went out in the cluster. I don't remember them exactly, but I believe the codes were (21)? G-Sensor Calibration & (52) Pump Motor (or something to that effect). The 3rd code is still a mystery. Since the codes erased themselves, I went to drive the car again and it did the same thing. Once again I tried to read the codes, but this time it kept saying NO DTCs. When I turn the car off and then on again the light comes on for the bulb check and then goes out until I go to drive the car. I've only been able to read the first 2 codes once more, but they erase themselves after 2 seconds. I haven't tried going through the diagnostic tests since the codes keep erasing themselves. I was wondering if any one had any idea as to what was going on. I'm about ready to just put in a junkyard abs ecu (one of the possible causes to both codes per the tests in the repair manual) to see if that fixes it. Other than the abs light and a few little issues (oil pressure light comes on at idle after warm-up, but gauge reads ok oil pressure - gonna replace the oil pressure switch. And between approx. 4k and 5K I get a weird buzzing like noise/feel in all gears - Not sure if it is an exhaust resonance issue or if I somehow timed the balance shaft incorrectly when I did the timing/balance shaft belts and head gasket.) the car is in pretty good condition. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone have any ideas? Should I just try replacing the abs module with a junkyard unit?

 

[pukrnukr]

My 95 tsi awd was doing the same thing for a while. I had my brakes checked out, and they looked at the speed sensors and stuff. I was told to replace the abs ecu. Sometimes the abs light would be on, sometimes it would shut off and the anti-lock brakes would work fine. After about a month or two of the light going on and off, it eventually just stayed on. I never replaced the abs ecu, so my anti lock brakes haven't worked for the past year. Does anyone know if their is any ill-side effects of not fixing this. My car is still braking fine.

 

[KBeast666]

I didn't do anything to the vehicle that has anything to do with the ABS. I bought the vehicle not running. It had very low compression on all cylinders. Replaced the headgasket, and put in arp studs. Replaced the timing belt and balance shaft belt. Once it was running finally, that is when I drove it and the ABS light came on. I will check everything out, I was just wondering if anyone had ever come across something like this before. I've been a Dodge tech for 3 years, but I haven't really had much DSM experience. I've never seen an ABS module erase codes by itself and turn off the light before. Plus I don't think it has anything to do with the wheel speed sensors, since the 2 codes I could actually read weren't speed sensor codes. As far as the noise/vibration, I will inspect it on a lift pretty soon (I just changed jobs. Working for Lexus now. In my first week and don't wanna bring my car in yet), I was just curious if a mis-timed balance shaft could cause a vibration between 4-5k? I should probably ask in the appropriate forum, but since I'm here, whatever.

 

[pukrnukr]

I don't know if my car was erasing the codes when the light went off, but it's possible since the light was off for days sometimes before it came back on. My car was also throwing a couple codes from the brake system. Actually now that I'm thinking about it. It might have erased the codes when the light was off. I'm thinking this because I was having something else fixed on my car and the guy read the codes for my brakes. Then when I brought it back for the brakes I think one of the codes was the same as before and one changed. My mechanic at the time said that this happens sometimes when the abs ecu is on it's way out. Like I said before I never replaced mine, but it's more then likely your problem.

A mis-timed balance shaft can cause vibrations in the engine. I would personally make this my first priority if you drive it daily. I had my timing belt changed at a mitsu dealer when I first bought the car. A few weeks later my car starting vibrating bad from the front, so I brought it back in. They said the belt somehow skipped and the timing was off. They fixed it and it's been fine for the past 30k. Hope this helps. This is my first DSM and it needed some loving when I got it. I had to do alot of maintenance at first, but it's all worth it once you start upgrading it.

 

[2GeNTSi]

Just recently my ABS light came up after my headlight coincidentally went out at the same time. As far as I know I don't have ABS (there is no fuse and no contacts in the fusebox either), so I'm not sure why the light is turning on.

Also I noticed with the key in ACC, there is a strange buzzing noise coming from the unit pictured below. It's a noise I've never heard before, and I'm sure it's not something I just overlooked. From what I've read before, the unit is for the ABS, but as I mentioned, I don't have ABS.

Does anyone have any clue what this thing is and why it would possibly be emitting a strange buzzing noise w/ key in ACC position?

 

[bpestilence]

Well, you DO have ABS, because that is your ABS motor. So there is something wrong with it, hence the light.

 

[jdodds]

Looks like you found the problem. Replace the motor and see if that helps.

 

[2GeNTSi]

How can that be if I don't have a fuse in the fuse box? Like I mentioned, there isn't even contacts in the fusebox if I wanted to put a fuse in.

 

[2GeNTSi]

I'm going to perform the OBDII port test for the ABS light when I go home this weekend, I'll keep you guys updated. If that doesn't shed some light on the problem, then I'll probably just disconnect the pump.

It just seems weird that the very second that my headlight went, the ABS light decides to switch on. Maybe a wire running through the main wiring harness fused with one of the headlight wires.

 

[2GeNTSi]

I'm going to perform the OBDII port test for the ABS light when I go home this weekend, I'll keep you guys updated. If that doesn't shed some light on the problem, then I'll probably just disconnect the pump.

It just seems weird that the very second that my headlight went, the ABS light decides to switch on. Maybe a wire running through the main wiring harness fused with one of the headlight wires.

Whoa I forgot about this post a while back. I actually resolved the issue, my aftermarket headlights actually short circuited and burned through about half the wires in the wiring harness running under the bumper. I had a fun day unwrapping all of it and soldering them back together.

But on to another problem sort of related. If I were to disconnect the connectors at the ABS pump, would that effectively turn off the ABS? I accidentally installed non-ABS axles on my car and now the light is turning on. At low speeds the brakes won't work unless I pump them twice (but the light won't turn on until I go over 5mph or so). Also like I said I don't have a fuse in the fusebox, so I won't know why the light is even turning on.

 

[hoonigane]

Tapping fixed the issue thanks. Mine did that after dying and started back up again.