The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

About to buy/review Forge BOV, Question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

It's nice, but mine leaked at the base where it swivels if turned at the exact angle I needed it turned on my 2g. I was doing a boost leak test and anything much over 15psi leaked.

I heard of a revised snap ring to fix this, but got no response from Forge regarding it.

Anyone have any details on that?


Who and how did you contact us? I don't have any PMs from you...

Any ways just PM me here or email me at [email protected] and I'll send you a new lock-ring.
 
TealTalon said:
It's nice, but mine leaked at the base where it swivels if turned at the exact angle I needed it turned on my 2g. I was doing a boost leak test and anything much over 15psi leaked.

I heard of a revised snap ring to fix this, but got no response from Forge regarding it.

Anyone have any details on that?







Here, read through this. :)
 
Ugh, OK BAD NEWs..... My forge bpv started leaking on me for the first time last week.
Was leaking so bad that i could barely drive the car home when it popped. I did a hard 3rd gear pull spiking 23lbs and dropping to 21 on a cold night and thats when it happened. When i boost leak tested it felt like a air vent around the flange it was blowing so much air... I ordered my forge bov maybe only 4 months ago from extremepsi , and it worked so good at first I was certain I had a revised version :notgood:
So now I have my stock dodge garage 1g bov back on in the mean time...

My friend told me to get another blow off valve and forget the forge but i payed my hard earned money on it already & like the sound and plus it cured my highway compressor surging in the upper gears that my stock modded 1g bov gives me, so im going to make the forge work. I thought about sending it in but might just get it welded or fix it myself even though thats still going to suck because its going to look like crap when im done fixing it. Luckily im not a ricer and dont pop my hood much but still dont think its ok ...

DsmUnknown, appears that link above came in handy in reguards to fixing it...
Any other links to any other threads were the guys solved the leaking problem themselves would be appreciated ( i.e. j.b. weld. etc.) I dont want it to warp or anything trying to weld aluminum without the proper skills or welder so im going to try the jb weld way first....

( Damn I wish the Tial recirculated.....:rolleyes:)
 
Supposedly people took it to the muffler shop and had them do the welding. There are pictures somewhere and the welds looks really nice. I bought a used one from a member on here who had his epoxied and claims to hold on strong. It should come in this week and I'm gonna see how the job is.
 
Are you guys who are talking about the sound of the BOV talking about one that is recirculated? I've never really been able to hear the ones that are recirculated and not open to the atmosphere. I mean, i can hear them "work" but there's no real blow off sound like I'm used to. Up until a few weeks ago i was running dual BOV's open to atmosphere and i loved that sound. My crushed 1g whistled in parking lot driving and decel and it drove me nuts after a while. But now my apexi one is surging and not working right, so I've got to move my location so i can put the blitz one i have on there. I need to get one of these monster BOV's i keep seeing that have ports all the way around, anyone know what brand those big ones are?
 
Are you guys who are talking about the sound of the BOV talking about one that is recirculated? I've never really been able to hear the ones that are recirculated and not open to the atmosphere. I mean, i can hear them "work" but there's no real blow off sound like I'm used to. Up until a few weeks ago i was running dual BOV's open to atmosphere and i loved that sound. My crushed 1g whistled in parking lot driving and decel and it drove me nuts after a while. But now my apexi one is surging and not working right, so I've got to move my location so i can put the blitz one i have on there. I need to get one of these monster BOV's i keep seeing that have ports all the way around, anyone know what brand those big ones are?

Are you talking about te Tial... If you can vent then yes you need to get the Tial for sure.
( Look in this link, the engine bay of the blue 1g has a Tial 50mm bov on it...)
Customer car pics needed!! - Page 2 - DSMtalk Forums

As far as the forge, I have the recirculated version as I am not set up to vent nor do i want to even if I could. A recirculated set up is more suttle for my sleeper look ;)and not to mention it keeps the turbo spooled up faster due to throwing the air back in loop with the compressor instead of spitting it out.
The forge its a great piece at a good price and the yellow spring im running has held 24-25 psi of boost well during a boost leak test. It also comes with different options of springs that depend on the pressure your running.

At anything under 18psi my forge didnt seem to blow off that loud especially on a hot day. It did have a audiable whistle noise to it when driving around though. After i did my cold air intake; at 22-23 psi during partial throttle ( while building full boost.) The thing blows off loud enough to be clearly heard from maybe 30-40 feet away on my car and yes thats in recirculation mode... Its a very clean sounding valve, not too over animated or exaggeratted, with a natural blow of sound to it without going o.d.

But the problem Im having along with everyone else is the damn thing leaking were the bov body connects to the flange so be aware of that if your looking at the forge.
Its pretty annoying actually that there still forge bovs out there getting sold with this riduculous problem.:toobad:
 
Yea, the one on that blue car in the link is what 'I'm wanting for my car now. SO is Tial the only people making that style? If i could recirculate i would again for the spool, but i'm not going to redesign my whole setup around that one need/want.But if i can incorporate it into my next set of pipes i will.

The Apexi and Blitz one's i have just seem like they're only good for smaller turbos and great for your basic upgraded (like an EVOIII16g) but i think once you get into t3/4 hybrids that they may not flow enough, that's why i was running dual BOV's as well and it helped a TON. If my Apexi didn't need pulled and rebuilt i would just add the blitz to another IC pipe. I think i may need to build all new IC piping anyway this summer just to get rid of some of the places where it's blocking places i want to get to, and get rid of the few places where it's audible when it shakes.
 
Yea, like i said if you can vent the Tial is the way to go and you wont ever have to worry about blow off valve related problems after you go Tial. It will hold whatever you need it to and you dont have to worry about compressur surge or fluttering either .I had a friend who ran one a long time ago, and as I recall it sounded great reguardless of the psi it was at.
There may be a cheaper place to get them other than here but this is what i found on doing a quick search..

DSM Performance Parts Turbo Eclipse Talon - Tial 50mm Blow Off Valve

Now back on track about the forge dv-
Whenever I get the thing welded or jb welded i will post pics of it and tell the results.
Hopefully the thing doesnt give any more troubles after I fix it as I do like the valve...
 
Jay, if you follow the link I gave in post 54, all you need to do is send the product back to Patrick at Forge and he will install the lock ring for free. No charge. All you pay is to ship the BOV to Patrick. That's it.

I was frustrated when I installed my Forge RV from Extreme PSI and it leaked as soon as I took it out on its first run. I was pretty pissed too, but after the lock ring was installed, it never leaked again. Patrick is an exceptional person to deal with. I give him the highest of praises. He is very helpful, very informative, responds to emails extremely fast, and is always friendly and willing to help out whatever way he can. Give him a chance. I promise you, the RV will not leak after the newly designed lock ring is installed.

However, it is surprising Forge hasn't gone through their products (or simply recalled them) to fix this problem. Hopefully they will work on that. (It may take a number of us to voice our opinions to make this happen, though.)
 
Jay, if you follow the link I gave in post 54, all you need to do is send the product back to Patrick at Forge and he will install the lock ring for free. No charge. All you pay is to ship the BOV to Patrick. That's it.

I was frustrated when I installed my Forge RV from Extreme PSI and it leaked as soon as I took it out on its first run. I was pretty pissed too, but after the lock ring was installed, it never leaked again. Patrick is an exceptional person to deal with. I give him the highest of praises. He is very helpful, very informative, responds to emails extremely fast, and is always friendly and willing to help out whatever way he can. Give him a chance. I promise you, the RV will not leak after the newly designed lock ring is installed.

However, it is surprising Forge hasn't gone through their products (or simply recalled them) to fix this problem. Hopefully they will work on that. (It may take a number of us to voice our opinions to make this happen, though.)

Thanks, appreciate the response. I believe you that Patrick is good with customer service and sorting stuff out, ive read a few of the threads were he's been very willing to help people. The forge dv is a great piece like I mentioned, im jus saying that the problem its having isnt helping their business. I wouldve sent it back to him, but Im not big on shipping stuff out thats all, (maybe because im lazy.) Ive already dropped it off with a friend who said hes going to fix it. I didnt have much time to bother with it since i work a lot; i just threw my modded stock bov back on. Hopefully it will never leak again once he's done with it.
 
No need to ship to us, I can send you a revised ring to fix the issue. All thats needed to swap the part is a pair of snap-ring or needle nosed pliers.

As for re-calling the product.... not really as easy as it sounds. We have quite a few larger dealers that sell our products to other re-sellers. We have no record of these transactions.
 
I had my forge BOV on my car for a few days now....I love the way it sounds, but more importantly it holds 20 psi no problem and still opens up cleanly and low boost.
 
No need to ship to us, I can send you a revised ring to fix the issue. All thats needed to swap the part is a pair of snap-ring or needle nosed pliers.

As for re-calling the product.... not really as easy as it sounds. We have quite a few larger dealers that sell our products to other re-sellers. We have no record of these transactions.

Thanks, i wouldve done that but its already about to be all welded up and stuff similar to canadiantsi's...

I had my forge BOV on my car for a few days now....I love the way it sounds, but more importantly it holds 20 psi no problem and still opens up cleanly and low boost.

Mines did at first and soon as I ran 23psi one night thats when it popped.
 
Thanks, i wouldve done that but its already about to be all welded up and stuff similar to canadiantsi's...



Mines did at first and soon as I ran 23psi one night thats when it popped.

What do you mean popped? What spring were you using?
Like I said, I;ve only had mine on for a few days maybe 200-300 miles, and i really like it, sounds good, and holds boost and releases low boost nicely.
BTW I am running 20 psi and am using the already installed yellow spring.
 
patty AT forge said:
No need to ship to us, I can send you a revised ring to fix the issue. All thats needed to swap the part is a pair of snap-ring or needle nosed pliers.






This is what I was told before sending my RV back to Forge:

We have a special tool so it isn't that difficult for us to disassemble, getting it clocked in the correct position is still a pain. There have been people that have used a set of snapring pliers to do the job but I can't comment on how well that worked for them. If you look at the bottom of the valve you should see a small aluminum ring with two small holes in it, this is what needs to be replaced, it screws onto the bottom of the valve and holds the flange to the valvebody. I will leave it up to you but my fear is that using something other than our tool won't allow for the ring to be torqued sufficiently and it might rattle loose.






As for re-calling the product.... not really as easy as it sounds. We have quite a few larger dealers that sell our products to other re-sellers. We have no record of these transactions.






Yeah, but this is not a new problem. Customers have been complaining about this issue for some time. Forge has quickly come up with a solution (the lock ring), but only as an afterthought it seems. I only say this because Forge hasn't gotten to the heart of the problem, that is, not sending out new products off the line without fixing them beforehand.
 
Update, I finally got my forge welded up at a welding place for 15bucks.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



Yea it doesnt look pretty any more, the welds arent beautiful by any means, but whatever luckily i dont care. Its not leaking any more, I just feel a slight faint breeze of air coming out the valve hole under any psi over 15lbs but not enough to really be considering a boost leak, so i think im going to add a shim to the spring. But with the yellow spring in place its not popping open at 26psi and under.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Side note: This car likes to compressor surge in 5th gear only (highway) going on and off the throttle under boost. Not enough that it makes strange noises or hasnt visually damaged the turbo yet but its enough to feel like someone stuck a potatoe in my exhaust for a brief second as its surging. I thought about putting the green spring in to see if it lessens the surge but it probably wont hold the boost especially considering I had to add two shims to the yellow spring to tighten it up. I mean, the car surged really bad on my dodge garage modded 1g valve , its nowhere near as harsh but think i need to rid myself of the surge completely. Any ideas?
 
Just thought I would post an update that I received the updated ring quickly. I suppose it helps we're in the same state. Haven't had a chance to put it back on the 2g, I think I'll use it on my Talon instead. :thumb:
 
Yeah, but this is not a new problem. Customers have been complaining about this issue for some time. Forge has quickly come up with a solution (the lock ring), but only as an afterthought it seems. I only say this because Forge hasn't gotten to the heart of the problem, that is, not sending out new products off the line without fixing them beforehand.

As an afterthought? The problem was fixed as soon as I heard about it. All new flanged valves (Subaru, Mazda, DSM etc) have the new rings, all old stock leaving our warehouse leave with the new lock rings.

I can only imagine that the problem is old stock being sold by our dealers, which is part of the reason I'm taking a proactive stance and LOOKING for people that have the problem. I don't want people unhappy with the product or even using it unaware that there is an issue. Doing the best that I can think to do but I'm open to suggestions on how to improve.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top