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98 TSi awd - Autocross Build

Picked this gem up a few years ago. Looking forward to autocrossing it.

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The results for the event just got posted. I coned on my fastest run. :f-u::barf: Pushed me out to 9th in class and 26th overall. Would have been 13th out of 70 if it was clean. Will try harder next time.
 
The results for the event just got posted. I coned on my fastest run. :f-u::barf: Pushed me out to 9th in class and 26th overall. Would have been 13th out of 70 if it was clean. Will try harder next time.


There are worse things. This weather has forced our March Rallycross event to be canceled three times now. We now have to wait until May for the next event. I would rather be in your shoes than not race at all...

Your build is quite very nice by the way.
 
There are worse things. This weather has forced our March Rallycross event to be canceled three times now. We now have to wait until May for the next event. I would rather be in your shoes than not race at all...

Your build is quite very nice by the way.

Thank you.

That delay stinks dude. :/ I'm still an autocross newbie so the excitement is sky high. The weekend can't get here fast enough. Lol Good luck to you in your series.


The car wont change much more this season. I plan on modding my upper arms for some more negative camber and putting in Greengoblin's fender braces once he ships mine out. Should be a fun year otherwise.
 
4/10/2016

Motorsports NE had their 2nd event of the year at Metlife Stadium in Lot L. Temps were in the high 40's after the wind died down. Still no heat on the pavement, but at least better than the last event. The course layout was pretty good. Not a big power course, with a lot of quick direction changes, but fun nonetheless. Some dips in the pavement made for some tire/fender carnage, which I wasn't happy about, but I don't think it slowed me down.

If you remember from my last event, I coned on my fastest run. My next fastest run was nearly a second slower. I was motivated not to hit any cones this time. It was close on my first run, after the spin, but I'm happy to report that I hit no cones out of my 8 runs. Whats even more interesting is how I finished that first run. LOL it was pretty funny actually.



So, the tires were cold. I was carrying too much speed through the last corner and upon lifting (Dont lift!!), the back end came around me. However, I fit sideways in between the timing lights and did not hit any cones. Proud to say I was the only driver to finish a run with the back bumper. LOL Ran a 49.998.

After a few runs, I was able to start playing with the tire pressure. 37psi up front and 31 rear seemed to give me the best balance of corner entry speed and rear grip without tire rollover. I had to check my boxers after some of the runs because the tail kept trying to come around me. (see first video again) I didn't want to go any slower so this seemed to do the trick.

I ran a 46.298 on my 6th run and 46.227 on my last. This was enough for 4th in my class. (1st through third were club instructors.) Finished 16th out of 79 drivers. FTD went to a modified Lotus Elise SC on slicks with a 42.121.


This is my 46.298 run. The GoPro's batteries died so I did not get my last and fastest run on video, but not much of a difference.




A couple of the guys told me to get better tires. My advans still have pretty good tread on them so I'd hate to just remove them for now. I'll keep battling for a podium with these this year and get some Bridgestone RE71r's, or whatever is the flavor of the year, for next season.

Next event will be on May 1st.
 
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So I need more negative camber. With my current drop and Paul Volk's lower control arms, I'm currently at -1.7 degrees up front and about -1 in the rear. I'd like to be between -2.5 to -3 up front with around -1.5 in the rear. The rears are easy to set by removing a few washers from my homebrew camber kit. The front is a little more difficult, especially since I'm not a fan of what DSM's have available in aftermarket parts. I will not run the adjustable balljoint. I don't like the fact of it hitting the chassis on full compression. The eccentric bushings shift over time, but what other option do I have. I bit the bullet and ordered SPC eccentric bushings only to have my money refunded with the distributor claiming they aren't made anymore. Great! I then tried to order SPC anchor bolts with the eccentric bushing built in, but could only find 1 bolt on amazon and nothing anywhere else. Wonderful! I called SPC and left a message, but haven't heard back from them yet. I'd bet they too aren't being made anymore.


The last resort I had in mind was to cut and weld my control arms. Seems like a great idea and is more of a permanent fix. Unless the arms fails, I shouldn't have any of the usual issues found with camber kits. After doing some research and removing my upper arms, I decided against it. I don't know how to weld and without me being there and measuring and making sure the welder does a good job, I didn't feel comfortable with having someone else do it. I have buddies who can weld, but they are not welders by any means. I then came across a thread on ecmlink's forums about a guy who re-drilled the mounting points on his control arms. Make sense. Drill new holes so the arms sits further into the car. Seems easy enough. So out came the measuring tape, drill, and drill bits.
 
Made a measurement for exactly 3/8th inch from center of current hole to new hole. Being careful that I made the angle the same on both sides. This was a little nerve wrecking but after test fitting my driverside arm, I had no binding.

4656C061-DF4D-4E7A-A252-E763E8D76F39_zpsgz52ptq9.jpg

Gradually worked my way up until the bolt was able to pass through.

DD1E3188-6654-4659-A179-8374E0C5A07B_zpszsyzlz9c.jpg

Semi finished product.

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The arm extension doesn't seem to contact the body. But, I do have to grind away a bit at the "valley" where the anchor bolt travels through as it gets caught up just a little bit on full extension. I'll have a buddy weld some washers around the new holes for some strength as well. Trying to get this done as soon as possible and get an alignment done before the May 1st event. :crossing fingers:
 
2.5" i think is achieveable on the lower arms, i think we worked out each 2 turns put 11sec of camber or there abouts, at least this way you have done it wont cause any caster change as the lower is onky ment to be as a 2nd resort for camber adjuster not 1st but hey it works for now so gott Use what we got right. Hows it look installed in the car? Since this has now gone in further does the metal part of the arm bind on the inner strut area?
 
2.5" i think is achieveable on the lower arms, i think we worked out each 2 turns put 11sec of camber or there abouts, at least this way you have done it wont cause any caster change as the lower is onky ment to be as a 2nd resort for camber adjuster not 1st but hey it works for now so gott Use what we got right. Hows it look installed in the car? Since this has now gone in further does the metal part of the arm bind on the inner strut area?

I'll take -2.5 degrees, but would want somewhere around -2.7~-2.8. -3 would be ideal, but I still drive my car on the street 2-3000 miles a year.

I have not yet put the car back together as I'd rather have the arms reinforced before I do that. The arm does not contact anywhere in the strut area, but I will grind a bit off just to be safe. Had I gone a few more millimeters, it sure would hit.

I think your calculation is a bit wrong. I used my arms to gain some camber. 4 full turns out gave me an extra -0.6 degrees of static camber and took away the same amount in caster. I would not go more than 4 full turns as that leaves just enough threads in the arm to be safe. Otherwise it becomes a weak point. I confirmed this with Paul before driving the car like this.
 
I may be wrong as im going from memory and thats bad LOL i think i had it written down in my note pad so will have a look tomorrow,
 
I actually think i had more then 2 turns, i think i may have gone with 4 or around that but on 1 side only do to the compression arm causing caster issues, i cannot remember the thread length and may have it written down somewhere or the part number at least to check but in my initial setup off the car i had worked out how many turns is the safe limit to come out. I am very sure more then 4 was safe aswell. Again i will see what i have written down in my notepad and can co firm or deny my wacky replys LOL
 
Welded up and freshly painted. I had to grind the arms a bit so the anchor bolt can travel freely and ends of the arms don't make contact with the body. So far so good after 250 street miles.


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Comparison of front to rear.

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Prior alignment was -1.7 on both sides up front and -1.2 on the driver rear and -0.9 on the passenger rear. I removed some washers to try and get about -1.5 in the rear. More removed on the passenger side to hopefully equal them out. I also raised my front end 1/8th inch after noticing the carnage left on the bottoms of my fenders and fender liners. Didn't realize I was rubbing up front.

I drove the car to work today as my alignment shop is near here vs my home, but my mechanic was not in today. I don't want anyone else but him touching my car so it will have to wait. He is familiar with me so I trust him a bit more. :) Tomorrow it is raining so hopefully on Wednesday it should be done.
 
Got the alignment done yesterday. I've had it done 3 times since the end of March. Hopefully, this is the last one for a while. Front camber ended up at -2.7 for both sides. So, drilling new mounting holes spaced 3/8ths inch in from the original location and raising my front end 1/8th inch netted me exactly 1 extra degree of negative camber. Exactly where I wanted it to be so pretty damn excited about that. I set my rear camber to -1.4 on the driver side and -1.6 on the passenger side. Rears are toed in 0.11 and fronts 0.06. Car drives pretty damn good, as it did before, outside of some more tracking up front. True test will be this Sunday at the next autocross. (hopefully if it doesn't rain.)


I also installed a Hallman Pro MBC. It did me no good as I started hitting fuel cut with very little change. LOL With the Evo 9 BOV and BCS mod, I was spiking to 17.5psi. Most I can get away with now is 18.5 before hitting fuel cut. I can hardly tell that the boost went up. haha
 
Been a while since I last updated my build journal. I've attended 4 more autocrosses, 2 were in the rain. (sorry, no videos) Was a good learning experience for driving and car setup. I've installed CompWorks fender braces and will be changing my wheel/tire setup soon. Going back down to a 17inch rim and hopefully some sticky autocross street tires. A lighter wheel/tire setup has its benefits. Next event is July 15th. I'll have more updates in the coming weeks after I get the car sorted out.
 
Going through a bit of autocross withdrawal. My last event was on 5/21/16. It was with the SCCA NNJR region. Finished midpack out of 88 drivers, fastest raw time out of 25 novices by over 2.5 seconds. BUT, I run in ASP class which has a PAX designed around cars with slicks, and ended up 4th on pax. My fastest clean run was 44.6. Fastest dirty was 43.9 with 1 cone. Would have been enough for 1st on PAX in the novice group. They say, if you're not coning and spinning, you aren't trying hard enough. :laugh: Top PAX for the day was with a 40.1 and went to an ESP 2015 Mustang GT driven by a nationals winner. Fastest raw time was 39.8 and went to our club's chair, co-driving a fully prepped ASP Evo 9. I think he might have coned on that run, memory is a little blurry.

I missed 2 events due to other engagements so the next event I'll be running is on July 15th. Its been a few weeks and I DEF have an itch to scratch. What do you do when you're bored and nothing to do?... buy more parts and work on your useless car. LOL

After a few years of haggling Kevin for his fender braces, he got in contact with me and got me on the list for a set. I jumped at it. Was anticipating these for a long time. Very exciting.

9037B6E3-1F5A-4E61-977E-87570FC23B23_zpsumbougav.jpg

Yes, I have painter's tape holding up my door. (put these on myself, until I had to set up the door lines.)
 
So, at this point, I got tired of making excuses for myself due to the tires I had. Things were looking good so I ordered a set of wheels and tires from Tirerack. The wheels are on closeout as well so that helped me with the decision.

17x9 Kosei K6r wheels with a +35 offset. Tires are Bridgestone RE71R in 245/40/17 size.

4716BC61-EF57-40EE-AA83-4D6F55D740EA_zpsb6thnhlg.jpg

Initial impressions... OMG can't believe how much grip these things have. My yoko's have much stiffer sidewalls so turn-in was a tiny bit more crisp. However, the increase in overall grip is tremendous. Plus a much smoother ride. The new wheel/tire package is exactly 2.5lbs lighter per corner. Advertised weights showed a 5lb difference, but actual weights came in at 2.5lbs. 45.6lbs vs 43.1lbs. 10lbs of rotating weight is good so i'll take it. T25 needs as much help as possible.

Random shot while setting the ride height. I also took out a few spacers from the rear control arms for a bit more negative camber. Noticed my current tires were wearing a bit faster on the outside.

76404009-15A4-499A-B13B-9B3BC6F7AE52_zps6jefaug1.jpg

I'll be getting an alignment tomorrow and then she'll be ready to go for the 15th. Hopefully I'll get another gopro by then.
 
Going through a bit of autocross withdrawal. My last event was on 5/21/16. It was with the SCCA NNJR region. Finished midpack out of 88 drivers, fastest raw time out of 25 novices by over 2.5 seconds. BUT, I run in ASP class which has a PAX designed around cars with slicks, and ended up 4th on pax. My fastest clean run was 44.6. Fastest dirty was 43.9 with 1 cone. Would have been enough for 1st on PAX in the novice group. They say, if you're not coning and spinning, you aren't trying hard enough. :laugh: Top PAX for the day was with a 40.1 and went to an ESP 2015 Mustang GT driven by a nationals winner. Fastest raw time was 39.8 and went to our club's chair, co-driving a fully prepped ASP Evo 9. I think he might have coned on that run, memory is a little blurry.

I missed 2 events due to other engagements so the next event I'll be running is on July 15th. Its been a few weeks and I DEF have an itch to scratch. What do you do when you're bored and nothing to do?... buy more parts and work on your useless car. LOL

After a few years of haggling Kevin for his fender braces, he got in contact with me and got me on the list for a set. I jumped at it. Was anticipating these for a long time. Very exciting.

View attachment 305833

Yes, I have painter's tape holding up my door. (put these on myself, until I had to set up the door lines.)

For exactly the withdraw reason, I went to RallyCross! I too, was also bugging Kevin for a set of braces. I have yet to install them though. I look forward to your feedback on them.
 
For exactly the withdraw reason, I went to RallyCross! I too, was also bugging Kevin for a set of braces. I have yet to install them though. I look forward to your feedback on them.


I don't have the balls to put my car through RallyCross!


I installed the braces a week or so before putting on the new wheels/tires. Steering response increased and turn-in felt much better. They also seemed to have cured a bit of off and on throttle understeer. Heavy braking feels more stable as well. I'm very happy with them. If Kevin charged double what does, I would have still bought them.




On another note, I decided to replace both of my front compression arms. My car had this weird vibration at speeds over 60mph that I could not necessarily diagnose to one single part. My lower control arms are less than a year old. Upper anchor bolts were completely fine when I modded the upper arms. Wheels/tires were balanced in March. I swapped the tires front to rear and the shake did not change. I installed the fender braces and it seemed to have gotten worse. So, new compression arms were in order. Also, my passenger side CV joint was making noise and was replaced with a new unit from autozone. After doing those and then getting the new wheels/tires on, I can say the car shakes no more. Honestly, it drives smoother than ever.
 
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I hope to finish the Laser sometime soon to beat that up in RallyCross instead of the 2g. Thanks for the feedback on those braces! I am going to wait to install them until the 2g undergoes its next transformation (hopefully soon).
 
ileagleracing let me know of an event that the NEPA SCCA was hosting yesterday. It was held in Wilkes-Barre, PA which ended up being only an hour and a half from my house so I decided to attend. I couldn't wait to test the car out after the last round of changes.

The venue had a decent size lot. The course designer more or less used as much space as possible and laid out the longest course I've ever run on. Ileagle took FTD in his SM 98 talon with a 68.00. My fastest run was a 71.25. There was only 1 other car in ASP class, a BMW M235i on hoosier slicks and a pro driver, and his fastest time was 70.002. I finished 17th overall out of 65 drivers.

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Between the fender braces, the new super sticky tires, and my new alignment settings, I felt like I was driving a new car. It took until my last run to really push the car on its edge. The braking, the turn-in, how complaint the rear end wants to be, is ALL different. Its better, much better. I can't believe how much the car has changed. These braces and tires are magical. You just point the car where you want it, and the rear end follows. Its amazing really. Ileagle jumped in with me on my 5th run and more or less told me to stop braking so much in transitions. I followed his advice and my times started to drop. On my last run, I really pushed it and lucked out by not hitting any cones landing me with the 71.25 time.


One of the course workers took this quick video of me. Hopefully next time I'll have a gopro again.




Next event is back with the MSNE on 7/15/16.
 
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