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80psi at 2,000 rpm after BSE!

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yoyo13131

10+ Year Contributor
75
0
Feb 5, 2010
Santa Clara, California
I eliminated my balance shafts with the correct kit (all Mitshubishi stub and bearings) I installed the bearings so the oil passages were blocked. Red locktited stud to spec and made sure oil pump gears markings lined up.

Fully rebuilt motor with rod and main bearings at 0.02mm using 10-30w oil I'm currently getting 80psi at 2,000rpm cold and 60psi fully warmed up. Idle warmed up is around 20psi. I don't dare to go past 3,000 rpm because it almost reaches 90psi, by how fast the psi is going up at 6,500 rpm I'd be hitting 250+ psi

Before balance shaft elimination I was getting 15 psi warmed up idle and 10+ psi for every 1,000 rpm. I'm using a direct plastic line aftermarter oil pressure gauge hooked up to the oil filter housing... Is this amount of oil pressure normal after a BSE?! It's climbing so high it's insane.
 
With my BS eliminated and running 20w50 full synthetic I see almost 90psi on cold starts, warmed up and cruising sits between 50-60psi, and idle warmed up is typically 15psi but eventually drops to 12psi. Not one oil related issue as a result. However, I am restricting the oil feed to the turbo due to the high oil pressure.
 
You can only really tell when it's at operating temperature. 80psi is high, but that could be due to the tolerances being so tight and fresh.
 
Well I can't rev it past 3,000 rpm fully warmed up becuase my 100psi gauge will peg 100+psi. Do I have to drop my coolant to remove the oil filter housing being I'm a Nonturbo 4g63?

Does timing have to do with oil pressure at all? Just trying to rule out everything. I might be forced to port my OFH
 
I might be forced to port my OFH
I'm curious as to why you thought it would be acceptable to *not* port your filter housing following a balance shaft elimination given the thousands of threads on this site with responses from other members cautioning against doing so.
 
I would like to give you my feedback from my BSE. when I re-installed the bearings (w/locktite aswell)I left the hole open to an 1/8th of an inch, I believe inside my engine should be a small jet stream of oil coming out that hole.on the gauge I typically see 40 psi on start up and 12ish @ idle. this is the second engine done like this/no problems. and this is the first time I'm posting this info.
 
Being non-turbo, you won't have coolant running to the OFH, so you should be able to remove it and port it or remove a coil or two of the relief spring to lower the pressure. Otherwise, you could end up killing your bearings with that high of oil pressure, that stuff is needed to wick away heat from them as much as it is needed to lubricate them.
 
Port the OFH. With a BSE and ported OFH, I see 14-16psi idle, and 50ish psi cold and about 55-60psi at 65mph cruising.
 
I'm curious as to why you thought it would be acceptable to *not* port your filter housing following a balance shaft elimination given the thousands of threads on this site with responses from other members cautioning against doing so.

Well I didn't know I had to port my oil filter housing after I did the BSE. Should of left the balance shaft bearings out, oil pressure might of been perfect in my case
 
Should of left the balance shaft bearings out, oil pressure might of been perfect in my case
WTF

If you do that it will be dumping a huge amount of oil back into the pan at all times, even at idle. That will effectively lower an idle oil pressure of 15psi to 0psi.

The pressure relief valve is like a wastegate for the oiling system. The system makes normal pressure up to the point where the relief valve opens and dumps a certain amount back into the pan.

If your method was a wise solution, U.S. citizens could save a pile of money annually on high blood pressure medication by simply drilling a 1/4" hole in their neck. :|
 
I've ported my OFH twice and opened it up just about as much as i could. I see above 60 psi on a cold start, 15 psi on a warm idle, 70 psi by 3000 rpms, and i've seen up to about 95 psi at high rpms. I did aquire a couple oil leaks in the winter cold, from the oil feed line and cas o ring. Fixed the leaks and haven't had any other problems.
 
Ok I cut a little more then two loops of the spring off grided down the side I cut so it would sit flat and smoothed any rough spots on the spring. Made sure valve went back and forth smoothly and it does. No porting.

I'm getting 40psi cold idle 15 psi warm idle

3,000rpm I'm getting 60psi
4,000rpm I'm getting 80psi
Didn't dare go above 4krpm because it was climbing even higher

How many spring loops can I cut off before it stops working properly?
 
Well cutting two loops off the spring gave me 20 less psi all around. So I'm going to port now to drop the psi even more. Which side of the hole should I port more? Towards the 22mm bolt or away from the 22mm bolt?
 
Just letting you guys know how it went, ported the OFH as much as I could with two and a quater springs cut and now my oil pressure wont go above 65-70PSI at redline! thanks for all your guys help!. idle psi is at 20 cold and 14-15 warm. :hellyeah:
 
So the dude is happy about his results, congrats bro. but is that good pressure to run? Like im wondering if that kinda pressure is good at 7-8k without starving? I just recently fixed my high pressure and i cut it down to 65-70 at wot (redline) is that a safe pressure to run?
 
I've seen this topic before, what’s the worry? I have never ported my housing to correct the higher pressure. 90-100 at cold idle, then 20 at hot running 20W50? My evo is the same way, even worse 110 cold! I have 25K on that motor with no issues. Is it oil pump failures or the concern about bearing "Wash out?"
 
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