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6 bolt swap no fuel no spark no ecu power.. help

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TofastForU_99

10+ Year Contributor
781
10
Mar 1, 2009
Kalamazoo, Michigan
here is my problem I just finished a 6 bolt swap and it cranks over but will not start. I have 5v to the ECU link v3 will not connect. I have no spark and No fuel and I have checked my CAS on a diff car and it is fine. I even wired up and soldered the CAS to RRE liking's. I am lost and Need help. Thank you.
 
here is my problem I just finished a 6 bolt swap and it cranks over but will not start. I have 5v to the ECU link v3 will not connect. I have no spark and No fuel and I have checked my CAS on a diff car and it is fine. I even wired up and soldered the CAS to RRE liking's. I am lost and Need help. Thank you.
You need to make sure that the ECU is powering up correctly. Watch the CEL when you first turn on the ignition, it should disappear after 5 seconds of being illuminated.

Of course you won't be getting spark or fuel if the ECU is wired up incorrectly/bad so I'd look there.

:dsm:
 
I have 5v to the ECU link v3 will not connect.

What? The ECU puts out 5v for the sensors but it uses 12v from the car.

Check for the CEL right after turning the ignition on and let us know.
Were you running ECMLink before the swap or did you just put that in too?
 
I have two ecus that both work in a 95 gsx. I have link v3 and yes. It is new. What does the cel have to do with? And it is pin 12 13 and 25 that I get 5v I took apart mthe main. Harness and found nothing. I don't get it I pulled the working runing 6 bolt and had it rebuilt put it back in and installed link and I have nothing when I did not mess with the harness at all
 
If/when the ECU powers up it turns on the CEL light for about 5 seconds as part of the bulb test that goes on when you turn the ignition switch on. If the CEL doesn't turn on then either the bulb is out or the ECU didn't power up.

Pins 12, 25 are the switched 12v from the MPI relay to power the ECU.
Pins 13 and 26 are the ground connections for the ECU.
Pin 80 is the unswitched 12v used to backup the memory in the ECU.
Pin 81 is the 5v sensor power from the ECU
Pin 92 is the sensor ground.

If you really have 5v on 12 13 and 25 you have a big problem.
 
I have power power on pin 13 an 25 of 5v pin 12 has no volts that is the ground right?

no check engine light comes on. but all the other ones do, if that matters IE oil SRS and so on.
 
I have power power on pin 13 an 25 of 5v pin 12 has no volts that is the ground right?

no check engine light comes on. but all the other ones do, if that matters IE oil SRS and so on.
Your ECU is done for if the CEL doesn't appear when you turn the key to the "ON" positiion. There is no wiring that needs to be changed to POWER ON the ECU when you do a 6 bolt swap so I wouldn't suspect wiring. Since you have two ECU's try the other, see if you can atleast get a CEL to come on...

:dsm:
 
both ECU's work in the other GSX so it cant be the ECU
 
could it be something to do with the MPI relay? i might have pin 12 and 13 confused I will re check today at 11 and post back results. Thanks steve for the help
 
okay i have a cel but it oes not turn off. and my stock boost gauge does not move and i still cant connect via link V3
 
So your CAS is turned 180? What year ECU are you using? Do you know if you need to switch the firing order? Did you check the ECMLink Wiki for the "No fire" checklist? Is everything plugged in correctly -- sensor wise (i.e. coolant temp sensor)?

swapplugwires [ECMTuning - wiki]
http://dsmlink.com/wiki/newenginewontstart?s=won start

okay i have a cel but it oes not turn off. and my stock boost gauge does not move and i still cant connect via link V3
Did you install the driver's for the USB cable from ECMlink's site?
 
My mpi relay works I have Fuel pump and fuel pressure now. checking spark and ill turn CAS 180
 
Also do this -
ECMWiki said:
Try to get ECMLink to connect to the ECU before trying to start the engine. This will help greatly in your debugging efforts, if they are needed. If you can get ECMLink to connect, you will have not only confirmed 100% that the ECU is up and running OK, but you can also start some basic checks before the engine even turns over. Start an ECU stream (ECU→Stream on) and check that intake temp, coolant temp, TPS, etc., all make sense. For example, if you see stuff like -40F for intake temp, then you may have a BlownSensorGround.

Blown Sensor Ground

There are two separate grounds as far as the ECU is concerned. There's a low-current ground shared by many of the analog sensors in the car (throttle position sensor, MAF sensor, coolant temperature, etc.) and a high-current chassis ground.

If you install a high-current device, like a WBO2 kit for example, powered off sensor ground or you short an O2 sensor somehow, you can blow this ground track inside the ECU. If the track is burned, you need to fix whatever caused it to burn or else after repairing the track, you'll just blow it again or, worse, blow something else in the ECU if your repaired track is stronger than the original.

A blown sensor ground trace will be evident in datalogs. It will result in -40F intake and coolant temp readings, 100% TPS, an unusually high Baro reading (like 37 inHg) and O2 voltages greater than 1V. The car will also most likely not even start. Note that with the V3 application, you may see as low as -74F on the intake and coolant temp readings.

Sensor ground is pin 92 on a 2G DSM ECU and pins 17 and 24 on a 1G DSM ECU.
Shouldn't take long and will let you know right away if a sensor is jacked. It sounds like you have fuel so it's either ECU and/or spark. Always the little things that snag us. Good luck!
 
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