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4G63T valve ticking/no power

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Beemer92

10+ Year Contributor
219
0
May 28, 2009
Peoria, Illinois
It's me again. Anyways I had cleaned and reinstalled all off my lifters using help from both the how to posts on lifter clean and reinstall, and a Chilton tech manual. Here's whats going on. I'm still getting ticking from the #1 area. Not sure if its on the intake side or exhaust side. Annoying. Second, When I had the cams tightened down to 15 foot pounds, the engine was very hard to turn over by hand. Yes the plugs were removed. I had reinstalled everything, and the car had almost no power. Currently when I run it, It seems that the more it runs the more power it develops. I'm using the 4G63 non turbo cam bolt tighten sequence and specs since I don't have the specs for a 4G63T. I had also called my local Mitsu dealership and had them look it up on ALLDATA. According to them, the bolts should be at 14 foot pounds. 1 foot pound shouldn't cause this much pain. Also, with most of the lifters, they were not compressing by hand as the how to's stated. Could a lifter cause this much trouble? The engine is a 97, and the cams, valves, lifters, and other head parts are only a couple years old. Please Help. I don't wanna blow up my baby.
 
My lifter just tick they didnt cause any problems. A few years old could mean a lot of things, wear and tear, posibly its something bigger sound like timing issue if its that hard to turn sounds internal. I would check compression. it shouldnt be that hard to turn by hand. You may have to tear it down, and find out for sure damage could already be done somewhere.
 
My lifter just tick they didnt cause any problems. A few years old could mean a lot of things, wear and tear, posibly its something bigger sound like timing issue if its that hard to turn sounds internal. I would check compression. it shouldnt be that hard to turn by hand. You may have to tear it down, and find out for sure damage could already be done somewhere.

The timing was off before I decided to do this. Car was running great with the exceptions of excessive fuel consumption, leaning out when coming to a stop, and stumbling when under hard throttle. I can't figure it out. Problem Child strikes again.
 
Hard to turn over by hand is a big red flag. The only proper and safe way to do it is to strip it down and start checking everything, especially clearances.
 
cams do not bend very well, especailly cast Iron cams (yes the cams in a 4g are cast iron) they crack and snap when put in a bind.

how hard was it to turn? when the HLA and followers are installed, a engine will be stiff from having to compress the springs.

I would check for a oil blockage in the HLA oil feed passage, if all the rest are quit, and just that one or 2 are ticking, they may have an oil restriction.
 
how hard was it to turn? when the HLA and followers are installed, a engine will be stiff from having to compress the springs.

Good question. Also were you trying to rotate the engine at the crank? The wording makes it sound as though you were trying to rotate the engine by the cams. If that were the case I'd expect it to be difficult as the cams don't have the same mechanical advantage the crank does. Just an idea.
 
First step should be a compression and leakdown test. You could have some bad lifters that are either collapsed or they weren't bled properly before installation. Either scenario will show itself during a compression and/or leakdown test.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I was turning the engine over by the large crank bolt on the harmonic. I was only able to compress 1 lifter by hand after the cleaning. Bad lifters? 1 more thing guys. Is there a how to sheet for bleeding the lifters the right way? I'm still getting a ticking from the #1/#2 area.
 
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