3rd gear pull with new stage 3 keydiver chip!

[matt98eclipse]

Hey guys i just installed a new keydiver stage 3 chip heres a new log tell me what you guys think. Im also noticing when i go anything over 6,000 rpms the car kinda backfires a bit. Like the it breaks up. Im thinking i have a boost leak somewere.

TIMA COOL O2-R TPS RPM KNCK INJDUTY
37° 196.3°F 0.47V 96.5% 3063 0 17
29° 196.3°F 0.84V 100.0% 3031 0 18
28° 196.3°F 0.84V 100.0% 3063 0 19
28° 196.3°F 0.82V 100.0% 3156 0 21
27° 196.3°F 0.84V 100.0% 3219 0 23
26° 196.3°F 0.84V 100.0% 3344 0 26
25° 196.3°F 0.84V 100.0% 3438 0 31
24° 196.3°F 0.86V 100.0% 3563 0 36
21° 196.3°F 0.88V 100.0% 3688 0 42
17° 196.3°F 0.88V 100.0% 3813 0 45
17° 196.3°F 0.88V 100.0% 3938 0 47
17° 196.3°F 0.88V 100.0% 4063 0 47
18° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 4156 0 47
16° 192.9°F 0.90V 100.0% 4250 3 48
18° 192.9°F 0.90V 100.0% 4344 1 48
20° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 4438 0 49
20° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 4594 0 52
19° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 4688 0 55
18° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 4688 0 55
19° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 4813 0 56
18° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 4906 0 59
18° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 5031 0 60
18° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 5125 0 63
19° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 5219 0 65
18° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 5344 0 67
19° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 5375 0 66
19° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 5469 0 68
19° 192.9°F 0.88V 100.0% 5594 0 70
19° 192.9°F 0.86V 100.0% 5688 0 71
20° 192.9°F 0.86V 100.0% 5719 0 73
19° 192.9°F 0.86V 100.0% 5813 0 73
20° 192.9°F 0.86V 100.0% 5969 0 76
20° 192.9°F 0.86V 100.0% 6000 0 77
20° 192.9°F 0.86V 100.0% 6063 0 77
21° 192.9°F 0.86V 100.0% 6156 4 77
21° 192.9°F 0.84V 100.0% 6188 2 79
20° 192.9°F 0.84V 100.0% 6344 5 83
20° 192.9°F 0.84V 100.0% 6313 3 82
18° 192.9°F 0.84V 100.0% 6531 6 82
21° 196.3°F 0.84V 100.0% 6563 11 83
18° 192.9°F 0.84V 100.0% 6656 17 83

 

[OneLove]

It looks to me like you are running to lean up top(above 6k). DO you have an afc or anything to make minor adjustment?

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Agreed, I'm no expert but looks lean up top by the looks of the o2 voltage and of course knock.
I find it fascinating that your lowest timing is 17* during a 3rd gear pull, let alone running 17* at the onset of boost. Perhaps I don't understand 1g timing maps very well.

 

[buddahboost]

Defenitely richen it up on top and around the 42-4300 area

Defenitely check for leaks. Your timing is ok, it should start a little lower though..

 

[matt98eclipse]

K so today o checked for boost leaks and didnt find anything. So ill try richening it up a little in the high rpms and see what happens.

 

[OneLove]

K so today o checked for boost leaks and didnt find anything. So ill try richening it up a little in the high rpms and see what happens.

Sounds good. Post up another log when your done.

 

[matt98eclipse]

I richened it up the WOT by 10% on the maft and the knock is completly gone! But im haveing a issue anything over 6000rpms my car cuts out really bad! No matter how much i richin or lean it out it still does the same! It feels like as if it was a boost leak but i have checked for leaks and found NOTHING. Im running out of idea's what this could be?????

 

[TalonJohn94]

Did you have the fuel cut eliminated with the KeyDiver chip?

 

[bastarddsm]

How good are your plug wires? get some new NGK wires..

 

[1qkfwd]

What are your plugs gapped at? How many lbs of boost are you running?

 

[matt98eclipse]

My spark plug wires are only 2 months old but are cheap auto zone wires. I will be getting some new NGK's soon. My plugs are NGKBPR6ES and are gapped at .28. Im currently running 18 pounds of boost.

 

[bastarddsm]

i'd be willing to place a significant monetary bet that its your wires.

 

[BoostedinSoFla]

Gapped to .028 and the wires might be the problem. Also, I would switch to 7's (looking at your mods).

 

[spyderturbo007]

Can you give us the settings for your chip? Such as max timing advance, target AFR, fuel cut removal, etc. That would help.

 

[Auto RS T]

6000 rpm every time?

This could be a clutchswitch wiring issue. Check the wire that goes to the ECU and be sure it is connected properly.

 

[matt98eclipse]

Auto RS T: You was right. I rechecked the clutch wireing and some how i ended up haveing a loose connection. The car doesnt cut out anymore! Thanks for the help.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Good call Auto RS-T, must've added the NLTS feature in the chip.
What fuel do you run, daily on this thing, stock 1g compression ratio?

You have some pretty aggressive timing there for a chip tune in my opinion.
Jeff normally gives a lot less advance than that, unless you have e85, or meth injection or something,
17degs at the onset of boost, with 18psi ( if on pump gas ) is pretty intense to be honest.

Get the NGK BR7ES....

I switched from the BPR6ES like you have and went to the BR7ES and it cleared up a little bit of the random knock counts when driving around. If theres no P in the code, that means its non projected, non projected spark plugs work better, they arent as prone to cause detonation.

 

[matt98eclipse]

This log was on 91 octane but i have 5 gallons of 100 octane i wanna use when i go to the track this friday night cant wait to see what i can get her to run! So your saying i should try and run some NGK BR7ES plugs. Ill have to see if i can find a place out her that sales them.

I do have the NLTS future on the chip but have not yet used it cus i was told it will brake my tranny. I have a stock tranny with a 6 puck clutch. You think it would be ok to use it or no?

 

[bling5tatus]

That clutch will roast your flywheel... trust me, I am replacing a flywheel this weekend on my car because of a 4 puck and going willy nilly with the NLTS. It is a lot of fun though, you should try it.... it's just, it slips your clutch so much that it can fubar things.

 

[Black_Bullet]

This log was on 91 octane but i have 5 gallons of 100 octane i wanna use when i go to the track this friday night cant wait to see what i can get her to run! So your saying i should try and run some NGK BR7ES plugs. Ill have to see if i can find a place out her that sales them.

Yes do the BR7ES, you can get them at autozone or any local auto store.
Just ask them for it, and make sure you specifically say B.R.7.E.S or they may accidentally give you the B.P.R.7.E.S by mistake...

It seems kind of odd that you are getting away with that much boost and timing on 91 octane. Do you know your air fuel ratio? You may have problems with your current timing maps with anything over your current boost level, and rule of thumb boost makes more power than timing btw. If I were you Id shoot for less timing and up to 23-24 psi.
( Like i do now.)

I do have the NLTS future on the chip but have not yet used it cus i was told it will brake my tranny. I have a stock tranny with a 6 puck clutch. You think it would be ok to use it or no?

No its a common misconception, the NLTS feature is actually EASIER on the syncros.
It will help you shift FASTER, and take off a little bit of your track time with maybe a gain of a few mph. I pretty much have programmed myself to ALWAYS use the NLTS feature when Im racing or even just doing a pull on the street, I forgot how to shift without

 

[matt98eclipse]

K ill put some new plugs in and how do i lower my timing? Do i just use a timing gun and retard my timing closer to like 5 or lower??

 

[Auto RS T]

Well, there are two ways to lower ignition timing with your setup.

1- Send Keydiver some of your logs with suggestions on what you think you would like to change and what your concerns are. Then see what he suggests to eliminate the problems.

2- The quicker less costly method would be. Adjusting the base ignition timing using a timing light and the CAS.

Engine Timing

Before you do any of this, verify that your ignition timing is at 5* with a timing light and the timing connecter on the firewall grounded. If it is not set correctly, set the timing at 5* BTDC and start your 3rd gear pulls and log over again.

 

[matt98eclipse]

Awsome man thanks ill check that out again and get back with you guys. It should be set to *5 thow.

 

[Black_Bullet]

Awsome man thanks ill check that out again and get back with you guys. It should be set to *5 thow.

But I wouldnt be surprised if it wasnt set right, especially with seeing your timing maps.
I dont know why Jeff would send out a chip for someone running 91 octane that sees nothing lower than 17 degs at wot and see's a peak of 21 degs of advance ... At least for 18lbs; thats aggressive for even 94 octane in my opinion; but your car is not knocking badly; and i dont know why, so hell with it, something good about that.

Whats your AFR look like? Theoretically you should be less likely to knock in the higher rpms since the more rpms your engine reaches the more timing it will naturally need/ be comfortable with anyways. ( unless your leaning out)
Im surprised your not knocking down low with 17 degs of timing at WOT at peak torque.

But from a look at the log presented, your timing shouldnt advance past 17 degs till 5k, and then slowly climb to 20 and then i think it should hold 20 the rest of the way without going for 21 degs. If it was like that then you probably would have a clean pull with no timing being pulled and it would clear up the knock...

Or do like my first suggestion, yank the timing back about 4-5 degs across the board and throw another 4-5 psi of boost at it.... Im positive that will give you much better results power wise, long as theres no serious boost leaks and your not heatsoaking your intercooler too fast...