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420A 2gNT Spark plug and wires to get

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Hello,

I have to considar myself a newbie:confused:. We all have to start some where. I start a Tuner Project in 2009. I purchased 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD M/T. It was in excellent shape and totally restorable. I have a family member that owns a speed shop. He luckly had junked out 1991 FWD Plymouth Laser Turbo A/T.OMG

When I purchased my vehicle it had a Blown ECU. I went ot his shop and started to yank part that I needed. I grabed the ECU and Coil Pack and Ingnition Power Trasitor etc;:tease:

I am in the learning stages and since the car had no ECU I plugged the 1991 ECU in and it cranked right up and the engine sound like a smooth sowing machine.:thumb:

They guy I purchased it from was an anal accountant. Nerdy guy and he just wanted too let it go since he did not want to put money into it and was sitting around for years at a local shop which his friend own.:hellyeah:

Well, I found out shortly/very quickly that the A/T ECU would not control the M/T Transmision component. I could only run the car at 1/2 throtle then it fall flat on its face then picks back up and you basically have to full throtle to stay out of lagging the transmission.WTF

I had some research and found DSMtuners :

www.thedsmgravyard.com had what I needed. Very hard to come by non programmable 1990 ECU Part# MD14509 which matched my "U" on my VIN.

It ran like a raped ape 0-60 was awesome for being stock. Now I knew I had to put some parts on it. But I wanted to teach my son how to shift and drive this new project car. Well we found a parking lot and was doing circles shifting up and down. During this test drive we had a fatel mis hap. The left CV joint collapsed and flopped over the wheel and it did some major damage to the left side of the enigine. Tore up the oil gear, timing belt and dented the oil pan pretty good but was repairable and I made sure that I did not screw up the valves since the timing belt was barley hanging on.:ohdamn:

Thank goodness I an 1991 2000l engine off the pylmouth. Bought new axles and rebuilt the left side of the engine. Learned how to time the CAM to all the other gears. And Varoom started right up and got new tires from www. tirerack.com and sanded down the rims and re painted them tricked out to match the car.

I use Lucas oil on my muscle cars in the past and replace all the general mainainance stuff.

I travel alot for my job which sucksa and over the months i have keeped the car battery charged and cranked it over and let it heated up.

Here is my problem. One day I started the car and had no spark. IT would not ignite. Being a member of dsmtuners I did some more research. I check the Coil pack, the power ignition transmitor on/off light test and came to a conclusion that the ECU must have went out.:nono:

I sent my ECU off to be rebuilt by http://www.aesmodules.com out of Florida. I high antisipation that I can take the car to get it front alignment since it was all over the road since I rebuilt the front end.

I got the ECU back installed it Battery Terminals disconnected and my worst fear. No Spark. Installed the 1991 ECU and it fires right up.

Any Suggestions? I need your all's help. I do not want to admit it but I am a Disable Vet and it takes a lot out of me when I work on this type of labor. I wish some one would "PIMP my Ride". But thats a pipe dream and I have to do what I can to get this job done.

Looking for the ECU Ohm' out test proceedures so I can check the pig tails to tell me want component is giving me the fault issue since I do not have an OBD1 Tester.:pray:

Thanks sorry for the book. Hope I can find some help on the 22 year old Tuner. I will be placing images on my project in my account
 
Looking for the ECU Ohm' out test proceedures so I can check the pig tails to tell me want component is giving me the fault issue since I do not have an OBD1 Tester.:pray:

Take a analog multimeter an test across these pins for a heartbeat,Also No CEL during the first five seconds after you turn the car on indicates that the ECU isn't powering up.

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How to read codes Here You can listen with a small pc speaker for the pulses as well

Btw next time, Maybe make your own thread or post in a thread related to your issues?

You will get alot more help that way... There's a Ton of info here that you can find by a simple search as well
 

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Thread stealer! Haha just kidding idc and thanks guys ill try the ngks for sure. My car seems to kinda stutter when I'm in a gear at low rpms (1400-2400?) Somewhere around there maybe its not getting a good connection and it been over a year since I've changed them so its probably time
 
No, tfaulk21 uses NGK BPR6ES-11 for the 4G37/4G63NT setup. And NGK plug wires.

Gapped at .044"

You can also use Autolite 63 gapped also at .044", and save a bit of money over the NGK plug price.

Don't get too crazy spending tonnage of money for an NT setup. It'd only helps a little.

-DSM
 
Dude, I am sorry but that was suppose to by my own thread I posted as for how I did I do not know how. ### I got my answer from a different post in the Tech Forums Like the guy stated above I learned shortly after. You can delete it?
 
AGAIN....

He's an Non TURBO ..., thus BPR6ES-11's, gapped at .044

If he dropped in the turbo "BPR6ES" plugs in there, the thing will simply not run at all. He needs the wider gap plug.

(If a lot would pay attention to what he's got in his description and get this NGK "BPR6ES" turbo craze that's been burned in most of the brains ...)
 
Is there really any value add on going with NGK wires over Magnacore? I see that the majority of the posters sugggested NGK setup for both plugs and wires.
 
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