The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Resolved 2gNT Manual transmission fluid

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Culon1997GS

Proven Member
99
13
Sep 22, 2023
Laredo, Texas
Hello guys, I’m doing maintenance on my eclipse and I wanted to know what’s the best transmission fluid that I could possibly get? And why? I’ve read that ATF+4 is good and that BG synchroshift is good af as well
 
Solution
This has been an ongoing debate for decades.

Not only is the OE fluid extremely rare, but the cost is just stupid. I've never even used it.

ATF+4 works fine and is preferred in the Neon variations of the transmission with plastic reverse hardware. I'd prefer something a bit thicker for the Eclipse/Talon variation with metal components, especially if it has some wear. I used ATF+4 on multiple occasions with very few issues but something thicker offers better wear protection and smoother shifting.

5w-30/10w-30 can also be used but doesn't offer much advantage over ATF+4 besides being held on shelves everywhere.

Synchromesh is acceptable to use, and is a similar compound to the OE fluid. It is a bit more costly than engine oil but...
"Best" is subjective and usually personal preference.
Not sure about ATF in a manual trans, except maybe in a pinch. I personally use Synchromesh (GM or Pennzoil) and have had good luck finding the Pennzoil brand at my local auto parts stores.
 
"Best" is subjective and usually personal preference.
Not sure about ATF in a manual trans, except maybe in a pinch. I personally use Synchromesh (GM or Pennzoil) and have had good luck finding the Pennzoil brand at my local auto parts stores.
I’m not so sure about ATF either, but that’s what I read in a lot of posts here, they said that it made their shifts smoother, have you found any difference in your shifts with Pennzoil or GM?
 
1 qt Redline MT90
1 qt Redline HD Shock
Top off with Redline MTX
I have used Pennzoil Syncromesh with good results, but in the car that has the ponies, I use that recipe I described above.
 
1 qt Redline MT90
1 qt Redline HD Shock
Top off with Redline MTX
I have used Pennzoil Syncromesh with good results, but in the car that has the ponies, I use that recipe I described above.
Well, Mine doesn't have the ponies yet 😂, I'm just a bone stock 420a sadly, but would you still recommend that mixture? Nice car btw! I hope mine looks like yours one day 🙏
 
I think in your case with a 420a car that the Pennzoil Syncromesh would work out just fine BUT, SINCE it is a 420a car, let's see if I can pull in a buddy that is more on top of the N/A stuff than me.

Thanks Steve!!!!
 
I’m not so sure about ATF either, but that’s what I read in a lot of posts here, they said that it made their shifts smoother, have you found any difference in your shifts with Pennzoil or GM?
No oil is going to account for worn synchronizers, if that's what the issue is. I tried 10w40 motor oil once just to see if it helped a bad 2nd gear synchro, and it did diddly squat. I've been running Pennzoil Synchromesh for so long I can't really compare, but it shifts really well with a healthy trans.
 
One place worth looking for an opinion is the Redline "Products for my Vehicle".
For your car, that comes up with this (below).
Then go to their page for MTL 75w-80 and read their points about it. It's interesting even if you don't go that way.
My own opinion about it - I don't have an opinion about it!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
Our experiences with 4G transmissions really don't carry any weight WRT the NV-T350 in the 2GNT cars, but I didn't like the GM or Pennzoil Synchromesh in my car. I didn't notice any change in the feel and didn't like how silver it came out after a couple of weeks.

Prior to that it only lived on the Mitsubishi fluid with their friction additive and since it's only received the MT90/MTL mix. I only tried it because it was all the rage for a while and cheap.
 
This has been an ongoing debate for decades.

Not only is the OE fluid extremely rare, but the cost is just stupid. I've never even used it.

ATF+4 works fine and is preferred in the Neon variations of the transmission with plastic reverse hardware. I'd prefer something a bit thicker for the Eclipse/Talon variation with metal components, especially if it has some wear. I used ATF+4 on multiple occasions with very few issues but something thicker offers better wear protection and smoother shifting.

5w-30/10w-30 can also be used but doesn't offer much advantage over ATF+4 besides being held on shelves everywhere.

Synchromesh is acceptable to use, and is a similar compound to the OE fluid. It is a bit more costly than engine oil but some prefer it for various reasons.

I just do not recommend any heavy gear oil, not even 75w-90 or 75w-80. The synchronizers never seem happy to engage smoothly and I've seen premature synchronizer wear in transmissions that consistently use this fluid.

This advice is for the New Venture Gear transmission used in 420a cars only. The Mitsubishi 4g transmissions are a completely different animal and are not even comparable.
 
Solution
This has been an ongoing debate for decades.

Not only is the OE fluid extremely rare, but the cost is just stupid. I've never even used it.

ATF+4 works fine and is preferred in the Neon variations of the transmission with plastic reverse hardware. I'd prefer something a bit thicker for the Eclipse/Talon variation with metal components, especially if it has some wear. I used ATF+4 on multiple occasions with very few issues but something thicker offers better wear protection and smoother shifting.

5w-30/10w-30 can also be used but doesn't offer much advantage over ATF+4 besides being held on shelves everywhere.

Synchromesh is acceptable to use, and is a similar compound to the OE fluid. It is a bit more costly than engine oil but some prefer it for various reasons.

I just do not recommend any heavy gear oil, not even 75w-90 or 75w-80. The synchronizers never seem happy to engage smoothly and I've seen premature synchronizer wear in transmissions that consistently use this fluid.

This advice is for the New Venture Gear transmission used in 420a cars only. The Mitsubishi 4g transmissions are a completely different animal and are not even comparable.
so, what would be your recommendation? or what are you running in your transmission?
 
so, what would be your recommendation? or what are you running in your transmission?
Well, my newest personal transmission has some modifications that bias my preference in fluid. For example, my passages in the casing are drilled out which can allow for use of thicker fluid. And it has 100% brass alloy synchronizers, which do not require the same additive packages as the OE fiber mesh synchronizer linings. I can simply use a high zinc 15w-40 and it has performed very well for the short time I've used it. If all of your transmission components are stock I would just stick to something similar to the OE fluid, or ATF+4 if it is more convenient. You can also mix different ATF blends together to improve the additive package; heat resistance of most fluids will be acceptable as the NVT350 doesn't get as hot as the autos. I always liked the idea of having a red transmission fluid so that you can easily differentiate between engine leaks and trans leaks. But some prefer the values of a sychromesh/OE fluid more.
 
Well, my newest personal transmission has some modifications that bias my preference in fluid. For example, my passages in the casing are drilled out which can allow for use of thicker fluid. And it has 100% brass alloy synchronizers, which do not require the same additive packages as the OE fiber mesh synchronizer linings. I can simply use a high zinc 15w-40 and it has performed very well for the short time I've used it. If all of your transmission components are stock I would just stick to something similar to the OE fluid, or ATF+4 if it is more convenient. You can also mix different ATF blends together to improve the additive package; heat resistance of most fluids will be acceptable as the NVT350 doesn't get as hot as the autos. I always liked the idea of having a red transmission fluid so that you can easily differentiate between engine leaks and trans leaks. But some prefer the values of a sychromesh/OE fluid more.

would that work for me? this will be my first time doing it, so any tips will be greatly appreciated:)
 

would that work for me? this will be my first time doing it, so any tips will be greatly appreciated:)
Yea, I suppose that would work. It appears to an acceptable viscosity and additive package. It's a little on the expensive side compared to say Valvoline Synchromesh, which I typically use in Honda transmissions.

One tip I'll give is not to remove the fill plug on the transmission. The rubber is always dry rotted and I tore one apart, then struggled to find replacement before learning not to mess with them. You'll want to refill by removing either the speedometer gear or the reverse light switch. I prefer the speedometer since the reverse switch is sometimes seized. It's underneath the intake piping with a 3 pin connector and a 10mm bolt. Use a long skinny funnel. The trans hold 2-2.3 quarts of fluid depending how much drains out. I'd say ~2.1 is for a basic drain and fill and closer to ~2.3 for a full disassembly/cleaning.
 
Yea, I suppose that would work. It appears to an acceptable viscosity and additive package. It's a little on the expensive side compared to say Valvoline Synchromesh, which I typically use in Honda transmissions.

One tip I'll give is not to remove the fill plug on the transmission. The rubber is always dry rotted and I tore one apart, then struggled to find replacement before learning not to mess with them. You'll want to refill by removing either the speedometer gear or the reverse light switch. I prefer the speedometer since the reverse switch is sometimes seized. It's underneath the intake piping with a 3 pin connector and a 10mm bolt. Use a long skinny funnel. The trans hold 2-2.3 quarts of fluid depending how much drains out. I'd say ~2.1 is for a basic drain and fill and closer to ~2.3 for a full disassembly/cleaning.
should I use Valvoline as well?

thanks for the tips! ill keep them in mind
 
If you opt for synchromesh Walmart has the Pennzoil flavor for a decent price usually in stock. Some will argue with me but like many other oils synchromesh is synchromesh whether it be in a Pennzoil or GM or Valvoline bottle. Amsoil might add some extra wizardry to their sauce but if it does anything at all over the others it will never be noticed on a stock 420a car, 98.9% of the time anything Amsoil slaps their name on is a marked up gimmick that is no better than comparable options for less money.
 
If you opt for synchromesh Walmart has the Pennzoil flavor for a decent price usually in stock. Some will argue with me but like many other oils synchromesh is synchromesh whether it be in a Pennzoil or GM or Valvoline bottle.
A few years ago I actually read a detailed write up on the differences between Pennzoil and Valvoline Synchromesh, and it came down to not much more than the cold temperature performance. In my area it is significantly easier to find Valvoline, even Walmart doesn't carry Pennzoil.
 
If you opt for synchromesh Walmart has the Pennzoil flavor for a decent price usually in stock. Some will argue with me but like many other oils synchromesh is synchromesh whether it be in a Pennzoil or GM or Valvoline bottle.
I guess I'll be going Pennzoil synchro, thanks for the advice. :D:dsm::thumb:
 
A few years ago I actually read a detailed write up on the differences between Pennzoil and Valvoline Synchromesh, and it came down to not much more than the cold temperature performance. In my area it is significantly easier to find Valvoline, even Walmart doesn't carry Pennzoil.

Ive noticed oil selection like that is hit or miss with Walmart, I’ve been to some that stock even vr1 and others with kind of limited selection. While Autozone is usually sky high on oil products it’s actually the best place around here to buy the Pennzoil branded synchromesh at about $13 a bottle. As far as brand differences I know it sometimes has to do with trademarks, for example the Ford junk I play with mostly calls for Mercon V atf in the automatic transmissions, yet the “Mercon V” name is trademarked by Ford, so whether you buy it in a Valvoline bottle, Supertech Walmart house brand bottle, or at the dealer labeled as Motorcraft, Mercon V is Mercon V pumped from the same place. Now that doesn’t stand for fluids that say they’re “Mercon V compatible” only those labeled as Mercon V. I’ve often wondered if Synchromesh is a similar case but getting into that conversation is getting off track of the Op’s question, just interesting to think about though.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Mitsubishi logo early valve cover
    Early Mitsubishi logo valvecover. “1990” All threaded holes are good. Has the 90 style vent...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale Carbonetics Carbon Quarter glass
    Bnew Carbonetics Quarter glass
    • jabo97gst
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 1g Wtb: Palm pilot w/ MMCD and cable
    I am doing an old school build with my 1G and am looking for this ancient hardware. Preferably...
    • Jeff D
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top