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Resolved 2g No Start/ Very Rich

Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
Ok please read as I have tested everything I can think of and I can’t seem to narrow down this problem. Here is the setup to start:

6 bolt 2g head(oring)
Car is on Speed Density
280 kelfords
Magnus V4 IM/1G N/T TB
2150 FIC
ARC-2 CDI with COP/swapped stock coil on same issue
9:1 Wiseco
Auto

The car ran fine two weeks ago and I pulled off the COP setup to paint it. Plugged it back in and no start. Started looking in to the usual spark, fuel, compression and mechanical timing. I have all four but found my arc-2 CDI status light wasn’t turning on which ended up being a dirty harness plug, light came on after cleaning but still no start. Swapped in the stock coil and same issue.

I again checked spark and fuel which all four cylinders had. I replaced the CAS and had the same result. If I take out the spark plugs, there is fuel (e85) on the piston. I removed the CAS and spun it by hand and could feel each injector as it opened/closed(2150s are loud and make a loud tick).The coolant temp sensor is working and was reading the temp in the garage. All other sensors read as they should in link prior to starting. I have proper fuel pressure (it’s logged in link) while it is cranking/attempting to run.

So I went through my ECMLink setting and everything looks as it did two weeks prior when the car was idling perfect.
If I put the pedal to the floor, the car will start but sounds like it is missing bad/running on two cylinders. As soon as I let off the gas even a little it dies and my WB in Link is reading 7.5 which I didn’t even know it could read that rich.

I have tried everything I can think of and down to thinking something in the ECU is messed up from when I unplugged the COP without turning off the battery cutoff(Only thing I can think of). Anyone have any other ideas before I light it on fire? I pulled the ECU to send it off to get looked at but that’s a hopeful solution. I took a few pictures of my settings in link to see if I have my fuel way off randomly.

PLEASE HELP!
 

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Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
I opened up my ECU and found two “plate” looking things in the middle that have the surface covering all cracked and one appeared to have a “drip” down it and a small puddle under it. I took a picture of the two plates, front and back, to get some opinions!
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motomattx

Proven Member
3,331
1,222
Dec 9, 2010
wampum, Pennsylvania
That ecu is normal, have you checked to make sure that it didnt jump a few teeth on the cam timing? check that and compression first. Are you getting a check engine light when the key is turned on?
 

Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
That ecu is normal, have you checked to make sure that it didnt jump a few teeth on the cam timing? check that and compression first. Are you getting a check engine light when the key is turned on?

I did check mechanical timing which was spot on. The compression was all over 165. When I turn the key on, the check engine light is on and turns off as normal...

I am running out of ideas. I am not sure what causes the car to dump fuel. The injectors are new this year as well.
 

motomattx

Proven Member
3,331
1,222
Dec 9, 2010
wampum, Pennsylvania
It seems like its running on two cylinders to me, one bad coil primary will take out two cylinders but you said you checked spark, is there a way that you could have coils wired 1to2 and 3to4 instead of 1to4 and 2to3?
 

Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
It seems like its running on two cylinders to me, one bad coil primary will take out two cylinders but you said you checked spark, is there a way that you could have coils wired 1to2 and 3to4 instead of 1to4 and 2to3?

After I wired the COP the car ran great, after it ran for 30 min is when I pulled the COP off to paint the coils.

When the car wouldn’t start, I swapped in a stock coil pack and nothing changed. I also bypassed the ARC-2 using the stock coils and it did not help.

When I pull the wires and set them on the VC, all four are sparking. I may grab another PTU and swap it in to see if anything changes.
 
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Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
I meant to grab a log before I pulled the ECU and found I didn’t hit capture. I can put the ECU back in and give it a whirl.
 

Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
I finally was able to get to the car. I went through the engine harness and did not find anything. I also got my spare PTU and put that in but there was no difference. I tried to start it again and seems to still be doing the same thing. I took a log of trying to start it normally and another starting it while the gas pedal is to the floor. You can see in the second file the car starts but sounds like it is running off two cylinders. Any help would be great!
 

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Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
Do you think having the global that far off would cause a no start? It’s just weird because the car started with all of the current settings before and all of a sudden won’t start. It started for the initial setup but I shit it down to check over everything before dialing in the tune, seems like I should have dialed it in right away.
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,443
2,262
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Unfortunately I don't have much to offer. The car seems to want more fuel but maybe that's because the o2 sensor is being tricked by a spark issue? Not sure.
 

Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
I will pull some global and see if it will fire. The car is 30 min away so I will get out there soon to mess with the tune.

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it!
 

Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
Can't provide much here other than suggesting that if your running DSMLink to pull out the ZIF socket and install the DSMLink "chip" directly in the EPROM Socket on the board.

Have you seen people having issues with this chip setup? I pulled the chip out and all the connectors look clean.
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
13,746
829
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
The ZIF socket doesn't have robust pins that the machine pin socket (on the bottom) can grab onto. It was intended to be soldered instead of the machine pin socket to the circuit board. It's intended (by me) for people who were doing code development and burning EPROMS, changing them daily/weekly. It will work like this but it raises the chance that they come apart from vibration or shock.
 

Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
I swapped those fuel settings and played with them a little and got it to start! It's tough to start and still seems rough but it's idling. I didn't have time to set the ignition timing and start dialing in the idle but I any tips would be great!

I am going to try and tune with the Link Tool program so if you’ve used it, send me a PM or post here with some starter tips!
 

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Boomdeeze

Proven Member
2,082
312
Jul 5, 2009
Independence, Minnesota
Looks like I found it! The plug and play connectors for the FIC 2150s was the culprit. I took the connector off of cylinder 2 and when I pulled on one of the wires, the wire pulled out and looked like only one strand was connected. I have the solder in injector connectors so I soldered that in and bam we are running on all four! Here is a quick log, let me know what you think!

The fuel must have been intermittent so was hard to diagnose as fuel was in the cylinder when I checked.
 

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  • log.2020.09.07-05.elg
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