Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[pauleyman]

Im gonna catch crap for this I'm sure. I did the same thing years ago. I found a salvage car ( somebody here has a shell) and I cut off a foot of line with the fitting. I joined the two with a compression fitting. You can NOT use a fitting from Lowe's etc. I went to an industrial fitting place and got a steel compression union.
Alternately that line can be flared or connected to a piece of flexible line. Whatever you do hoses and clamps are not a fix.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Im gonna catch crap for this I'm sure. I did the same thing years ago. I found a salvage car ( somebody here has a shell) and I cut off a foot of line with the fitting. I joined the two with a compression fitting. You can NOT use a fitting from Lowe's etc. I went to an industrial fitting place and got a steel compression union.
Alternately that line can be flared or connected to a piece of flexible line. Whatever you do hoses and clamps are not a fix.

I was thinking steel braided line? But no hoses will work? It has to be metal? I broke it from the filter to that top part of the hose. I know quite a few people have done this, and they said they used hoses. But if you’re saying it isn’t good, then I won’t do it. Tell me what works and I should do, so I can. I’ve got my engine like halfway in, just trying to figure out where some connectors go, and the one to the starter mainly. Everything else is looking good. : )

 

[CKOPOCT]

I’ve got my engine like halfway in, just trying to figure out where some connectors go, and the one to the starter mainly. Everything else is looking good. : )

Try this link: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/

Thread: 2g DSM Engine Bay Electrical Connections

I completely rewired my 97 GST Spyder (moved the battery and fuse box to the trunk, swapped transmissions, deleted the cruise and emissions, went to speed density... a lot of changes). This link was invaluable. Not everything was there (write-up was based on a 99 GSX manual), but the majority was.

Let us know if you have questions, and take pictures of the connector and wire colors.

 

[pauleyman]

I was thinking steel braided line? But no hoses will work? It has to be metal? I broke it from the filter to that top part of the hose. I know quite a few people have done this, and they said they used hoses. But if you’re saying it isn’t good, then I won’t do it. Tell me what works and I should do, so I can. I’ve got my engine like halfway in, just trying to figure out where some connectors go, and the one to the starter mainly. Everything else is looking good. : )

Hose is fine. Im just saying you shouldn't use just some piece of hose and hose clamps. So....you're going to need some fittings etc.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Try this link: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/

Thread: 2g DSM Engine Bay Electrical Connections

I completely rewired my 97 GST Spyder (moved the battery and fuse box to the trunk, swapped transmissions, deleted the cruise and emissions, went to speed density... a lot of changes). This link was invaluable. Not everything was there (write-up was based on a 99 GSX manual), but the majority was.

Let us know if you have questions, and take pictures of the connector and wire colors.

awesome i definitely will!! Thank you so much. There is a couple I don’t know where they go, and after these I’ll know the rest.

Hose is fine. Im just saying you shouldn't use just some piece of hose and hose clamps. So....you're going to need some fittings etc.

Okay you got it, sounds good to me. I’ll find a hose made for fuel, and I’ll find the fittings for them both.

 

[pauleyman]

Additionally, absolutely make sure you get this repair right. Fuel is not the place to guess.
Its pretty easy to prime the fuel system safely and check for leaks when the car is cold.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Additionally, absolutely make sure you get this repair right. Fuel is not the place to guess.
Its pretty easy to prime the fuel system safely and check for leaks when the car is cold.

So what do you think I should do? It’ll be easiest when the engine is out, so where should I start right now?

 

[RamenPride]

So, it would appear i break more in this car than fix. I was trying to get my fuel filter pressure line off because the end that goes in the rail broke. Trying to get it off, it snapped the underlying metal pipe. Now I feel like an idiot, and have to replace it. : ) what am i gonna do? Put in a steel braided line? And I don’t even know where this line runs too and from. So this is just great, and I am running out of patience and time. I really just want this thing running, but it really seems to want to stay dead and or just hate me. I also fixed my sensor for the trans.

The line runs all the way to the fuel tank. Cheapest way is probably to get a new piece of line, flare it (and bend if necessary), cut off the messed up end of the stock line and connect with a compression fitting.

You can use stainless steel braided line, but you'd need to cut off the stock end, put a tube nut on, flare it and then get the appropriate adapter for AN fittings, run the line, and then the appropriate fitting to attach it to the bottom of the stock fuel filter.

You can also replace the whole fuel line with braided, with the appropriate fittings to connect at the fuel pump hanger and bottom of the stock fuel filter. For about $250-300 you can get a kit that goes from tank to rail and replaces the stock fuel filter, although you can probably piece together your own kit for less.

 

[pauleyman]

Ramen summed it up. I would try and get a stock line and compression fitting. Likely a 25$ fix

 

[RubyEclipse]

I can’t find a line anywhere that will get here in time, plus when i want to push boost work that not work? What if i cut off the end and put the filter just back on? I have a grinder for a perfect cut? I just have to figure out how to make that line stay in the filter. I also am looking at my compressor, just want to make sure nothings broken on it. Does this look okay?

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[pauleyman]

I can’t find a line anywhere that will get here in time, plus when i want to push boost work that not work? What if i cut off the end and put the filter just back on? I have a grinder for a perfect cut? I just have to figure out how to make that line stay in the filter. I also am looking at my compressor, just want to make sure nothings broken on it. Does this look okay?

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No do NOT take a grinder to a fuel line. If you want to get the filter to fit you have to flare the line. Remove the fitting on the filter and you'll see.

 

[RubyEclipse]

No do NOT take a grinder to a fuel line. If you want to get the filter to fit you have to flare the line. Remove the fitting on the filter and you'll see.

Okay, I won’t cut it. But both sides are twisted so badly? Also what does flare mean…? It’s expanding the top right?

 

[pauleyman]

Okay, I won’t cut it. But both sides are twisted so badly? Also what does flare mean…? It’s expanding the top right?

You can cut it. Just not with a grinder. Unless you want to catch on fire. Lookup tube flaring. Get that nut out of the filter and you'll see the flare on the end of the tube.
You can get a flare tool. Reflare the line and go if you have enough room to do so and that nut is still good.

Okay, I won’t cut it. But both sides are twisted so badly? Also what does flare mean…? It’s expanding the top right?

You need a tube cutter

 

[RubyEclipse]

You can cut it. Just not with a grinder. Unless you want to catch on fire. Lookup tube flaring. Get that nut out of the filter and you'll see the flare on the end of the tube.
You can get a flare tool. Reflare the line and go if you have enough room to do so and that nut is still good.

I definitely will have enough room i think, the tube looks great, except for that one piece that is twisted. It just twisted it about an inch or less down. Very lucky. I think it’ll be an easier fix not going to lie. Do i want to change out any filter or whatever while it’s out?

You need a tube cutter

Got it, I’ll go and grab one.

 

[pauleyman]

I definitely will have enough room i think, the tube looks great, except for that one piece that is twisted. It just twisted it about an inch or less down. Very lucky. I think it’ll be an easier fix not going to lie. Do i want to change out any filter or whatever while it’s out?


Got it, I’ll go and grab one.

I assume you were removing this to change the filter in the first place.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I assume you were removing this to change the filter in the first place.

no… the pipe pressure hose to the fuel rail broke, so I was trying to take the filter off to take the pipe in, and ended up breaking the hose underneath. And im trying to figure out what this piece is, any clue guys? Next to the filter. and I want to take that air box thing out did possible too. The one under the battery tray.

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[Justin DuBois]

no… the pipe pressure hose to the fuel rail broke, so I was trying to take the filter off to take the pipe in, and ended up breaking the hose underneath. And im trying to figure out what this piece is, any clue guys? Next to the filter. and I want to take that air box thing out did possible too. The one under the battery tray.

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I think that's the same one that disintegrated on mine.

Street Build - ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

There is no easy way to remove the rear bumper cover. Jack up the rear, remove two wheels, remove the back fender liner to get to the corner bolts. All the lower rear interior has to come off: This lets you remove the tail lights and center garnish, and THEN you can get to the cover bolts top...

www.dsmtuners.com

 

[RubyEclipse]

Do I need my charcoal can?

I think that's the same one that disintegrated on mine.

Street Build - ITFLYS - 1Gina2G

There is no easy way to remove the rear bumper cover. Jack up the rear, remove two wheels, remove the back fender liner to get to the corner bolts. All the lower rear interior has to come off: This lets you remove the tail lights and center garnish, and THEN you can get to the cover bolts top...

www.dsmtuners.com

I’ve heard of people chucking there’s. If its necessary I’ll keep it, I just find the hoses annoying I’d like to not have to ship things in, trying to hurry but not to fast. Getting that hose off of the fuel filter and I think I flared the fuel line on the bottom, I don’t know how well though. I really do honestly want to just replace it with a braided line or hose, anything but that one. I know I’ll break it again, and it seems like junk.

 

[Bigbeanbird]

No do NOT take a grinder to a fuel line. If you want to get the filter to fit you have to flare the line. Remove the fitting on the filter and you'll see.

I’ve flared many a pipe, MANY.. I come from an AC background, yeah don’t grind it

Do I need my charcoal can?

I’ve heard of people chucking there’s. If its necessary I’ll keep it, I just find the hoses annoying I’d like to not have to ship things in, trying to hurry but not to fast. Getting that hose off of the fuel filter and I think I flared the fuel line on the bottom, I don’t know how well though. I really do honestly want to just replace it with a braided line or hose, anything but that one. I know I’ll break it again, and it seems like junk.

The new braided line will have flared ends.. you should get a flaring tool, there’s cheap, some work better than others though.. copper flares allot easier than stainless steel

 

[RubyEclipse]

The new braided line will have flared ends.. you should get a flaring tool, there’s cheap, some work better than others though.. copper flares allot easier than stainless steel

Yep, it was very very hard to flare it, and im not sure I did it very correct so I want to make sure it will not come lose and leak fuel, but im not sure.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Trying to put this air canister back on, i have zero clue where anyyyy of these pipes go back to and connection. Would love some help figuring it out. Thank you all

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@Justin DuBois did you ever happen to find that part number for the piece you had that melted? The one under the charcoal canister. I want to buy one, but it looks like all of them have to get shipped in, none are close by for pick up? I really don’t have time to be wasting to wait for something to ship in.

There had to be someone else i can get this part, or at least ship on faster. The ones on eBay won’t be here for at least 2-3 weeks. I’m about to go back to the parts car a couple hours away to get.

 

[RamenPride]

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Hope this pic helps. I believe the line in your first pic by the subframe is the fuel tank pressure relief. I think the plastic piece you're talking about that needs to be replaced is the check valve. You might have to find one used as it may be discontinued. The bottom port on the black piece goes to the intake pipe.

 

[Justin DuBois]

@Justin DuBois did you ever happen to find that part number for the piece you had that melted? The one under the charcoal canister. I want to buy one, but it looks like all of them have to get shipped in, none are close by for pick up? I really don’t have time to be wasting to wait for something to ship in.

MB925886

 

[RubyEclipse]

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Hope this pic helps. I believe the line in your first pic by the subframe is the fuel tank pressure relief. I think the plastic piece you're talking about that needs to be replaced is the check valve. You might have to find one used as it may be discontinued. The bottom port on the black piece goes to the intake pipe.

Yes that picture definitely helps! I did go through a lot of forums and see it was called a 2 way check valve, im going to get one today, checking a closer vehicle and then if they don’t have it I’ll go to the further one. I’m pretty sure this is the last piece I need, then I will start putting the engine fully back in. I had started but realized that piece was missing and broken, so I took the engine back out before it was to hard to reach.

 

[RamenPride]

Looks like MB925886 has been discontinued. MB504075 looks like the corresponding part on 1g's and stealth/3000gt, so it *might* work if you can find that one.