Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Hey.....if it worked

 

[Bigbeanbird]

Okay got it, I won’t even try it then to be honest, because I do want my car to be working.

That’s prolly a great idea if it was running when you took it apart.. bearings are probably good anyhow

 

[RubyEclipse]

Yeah man, I didn’t mention that.. with new rings you HAVE to have the cylinders honed so the rings will set, it’s those cross hatched marks in the cylinders.. shoot, we’d get in there when I was just a lad with some sandpaper and sand it.. kinda worked..

that is amazing. I did know I had to hone it, I just didn’t know that’s what glaze means.

I think I’ll leave the bearings this time around. I’m even worried for the rings. I don’t want to mess up the gap at all, I’m worried for it.

 

[Bigbeanbird]

that is amazing. I did know I had to hone it, I just didn’t know that’s what glaze means.

I think I’ll leave the bearings this time around. I’m even worried for the rings. I don’t want to mess up the gap at all, I’m worried for it.

you do know that you have to remove the pistons whern doing rings, thats gonna expose the rod bearings anyhow.....

 

[RubyEclipse]

you do know that you have to remove the pistons whern doing rings, thats gonna expose the rod bearings anyhow.....

I have to take off the piston? Why? Why can’t I leave it connected to the rod and just do the rings?

 

[Bigbeanbird]

I have to take off the piston? Why? Why can’t I leave it connected to the rod and just do the rings?

How you gonna get to the rings otherwise?? The pistons don’t poke out of the block, and they can’t come out under Neath.. what do you know that I don’t..??

 

[techboy]

No need to separate piston and rod. You can leave the piston connected to the rod, as a matter of fact a shop would have to separate the pin for you by pressing it out, not something you can do yourself. To replace the rings with new rings the pistons have to come out. If I remember right from your previous pics your pistons are already out so you're already there anyway. At minimum you'll want to do a hone which also requires the pistons to be out.

Have the block honed as mentioned before by 1990TSI and purchase new rings. They are relatively cheap even on a small budget like your working with. You've come so far it wouldn't make sense to put this back together with old rings. NOW is the time to do them. Like has been stated, just keep those rod bearings and crank bearings in order. Dont mix up the placement or orientation. Mark them with Sharpie on the block-mate side if you need too.

As far as rings go .. I'm sure there are some YouTube videos you can watch on how to do rings. There is a process / method you'll need to follow and there are certain locations you'll have to clock the gaps. Lots of information on how to do this and your new rings should even come with a paper diagram.

 

[RubyEclipse]

How you gonna get to the rings otherwise?? The pistons don’t poke out of the block, and they can’t come out under Neath.. what do you know that I don’t..??

Oh, I thought you meant disconnect piston from rod. I took them off of the crank, they’re currently sitting in a garbage bag laying flat.

No need to separate piston and rod. You can leave the piston connected to the rod, as a matter of fact a shop would have to separate the pin for you by pressing it out, not something you can do yourself. To replace the rings with new rings the pistons have to come out. If I remember right from your previous pics your pistons are already out so you're already there anyway. At minimum you'll want to do a hone which also requires the pistons to be out.

Have the block honed as mentioned before by 1990TSI and purchase new rings. They are relatively cheap even on a small budget like your working with. You've come so far it wouldn't make sense to put this back together with old rings. NOW is the time to do them. Like has been stated, just keep those rod bearings and crank bearings in order. Dont mix up the placement or orientation. Mark them with Sharpie on the block-mate side if you need too.

As far as rings go .. I'm sure there are some YouTube videos you can watch on how to do rings. There is a process / method you'll need to follow and there are certain locations you'll have to clock the gaps. Lots of information on how to do this and your new rings should even come with a paper diagram.

Okay got it. Thank you. : )

 

[Bigbeanbird]

Oh, I thought you meant disconnect piston from rod. I took them off of the crank, they’re currently sitting in a garbage bag laying flat.

that’s funny.. then you disconnected the rods from the crank.. how’d the bearings look..?? Those you don’t want to get those mixed.. you know same bearings, same rod same cap same direction

Okay got it. Thank you. : )

Pretty sure there is an end gap spec.. I dunno .005 or .007..???

 

[RubyEclipse]

that’s funny.. then you disconnected the rods from the crank.. how’d the bearings look..?? Those you don’t want to get those mixed.. you know same bearings, same rod same cap same direction

Okay so… i did indeed keep the caps with the same rods. Although… i don’t think i kept the direction of the caps correct. i will check the rod bearings when im home, send you all a video or picture of them. And my clutch, i want to make sure it’s in good condition and I can keep using it.

Pretty sure there is an end gap spec.. I dunno .005 or .007..???

I think i read .007 online, im pretty sure at least.

 

[Bigbeanbird]

Okay so… i did indeed keep the caps with the same rods. Although… i don’t think i kept the direction of the caps correct. i will check the rod bearings when im home, send you all a video or picture of them. And my clutch, i want to make sure it’s in good condition and I can keep using it.

Cool, I want to check my clutch too, not ready to split the motor and trans yet.. still feels good though.. can sure enough spin the tires through 2nd gear!!

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

On your rod caps, the little "notch" on the rods bearing journal and on the rod cap always mate, meaning they should both be on the same side, notches offset.

 

[RubyEclipse]

The guys at the engine resurfacing quoted me 280 in total, but I need to bring them the crank caps? I have no idea what those are. Any pictures to help me? They have to hold the block to deck it or something they said. But I don’t know what im supposed to bring them.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

They are asking for the crankshaft caps. I hope you numbered them and kept them in order. It's VERY important. You should ALWAYS # them and put them back on the block ASAP.

 

[RubyEclipse]

They are asking for the crankshaft caps. I hope you numbered them and kept them in order. It's VERY important. You should ALWAYS # them and put them back on the block ASAP.

umm… this is where I may I messed up… I got 4 of these and a big one. These are the things I took off the crank, I had no idea they needed to be number. What is what? And what do I do????

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[19Eclipse90]

The piece that bolts on here, and holds the crank in the block. Luckily, for a 7-bolt, it’s a single piece, also known as a a girdle.

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They don’t need the bearings to do a cylinder hone. But you will either need to figure out which bearing came from where or plan to replace them.

 

[RubyEclipse]

The piece that bolts on here, and holds the crank in the block. Luckily, for a 7-bolt, it’s a single piece, also known as a a girdle.

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They don’t need the bearings to do a cylinder hone. But you will either need to figure out which bearing came from where or plan to replace them.

Oh yes!! I didn’t know the girdle was also called that my bad. And yes, I am replacing all of the bearings. I got a full set of things to buy. And I did keep the girdle and bolts with its correct spots.

This is the current state of my clutch. I have to no idea what I am looking at if it’s good or not. I don’t want to be disconnecting my trans or taking anything out anytime soon, so tell me if I should replace it. Also, I am replacing my CV axles, both. They are so rusted and the boots on one is fully torn and the other is about 3/4ths gone. I’m about 600 into this rebuild, with a full gasket kit/bearings/rings, CV axles, and engine decking/cleaning. Is there anything else I need too add onto my list of purchases? I really gotta make sure im working enough hours to pay for all of this.

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[1990TSIAWDTALON]

So does anyone else see heat cracks in the flywheel? The plate doesn't look too bad. The disk, just get a new one. I put new stuff in there but I can afford to when that time comes so I understand your situation.

 

[RubyEclipse]

So does anyone else see heat cracks in the flywheel? The plate doesn't look too bad. The disk, just get a new one. I put new stuff in there but I can afford to when that time comes so I understand your situation.

I would not mind a new clutch if it means I get another few years without rebuilding. It will just make my project go into the school year. And as soon as school starts, I will not have much time if any, and no income except for weekends. Right now, im waiting for my boss to come back so I can buy everything. He gets back in 2 days so I should have a good amount for everything I need.

I also found a kit for 50 bucks on rock auto, is that bad or good? I don’t want too cheap out. But it’s got that heart next too it meaning many people have bought and liked it. Whatcha guys think? New plate and disk?

 

[pauleyman]

I also found a kit for 50 bucks on rock auto, is that bad or good? I don’t want too cheap out. But it’s got that heart next too it meaning many people have bought and liked it. Whatcha guys think? New plate and disk?

I'll add to the pile. You get a new clutch yiu need to machine that flywheel also. Probably another 50$ or so

 

[RubyEclipse]

I'll add to the pile. You get a new clutch yiu need to machine that flywheel also. Probably another 50$ or so

A new one is about 80-90, is it worth it?

 

[Bigbeanbird]

So does anyone else see heat cracks in the flywheel? The plate doesn't look too bad. The disk, just get a new one. I put new stuff in there but I can afford to when that time comes so I understand your situation.

From what I can see , the clutch plate is gone, pressure plate should be replaced while yer in there and the flywheel, ah the old flywheel trick, , I see radial markings on it but can’t be sure, I’m with the moderator, I like to replace replace replace.. it bugs me when I do a job and the thing I ‘thought’ about replacing, fails and I get to do the whole thing over

 

[pauleyman]

A new one is about 80-90, is it worth it?

You have to decide.
I'll tell you my story....truck I owned as a teenager needed a clutch. I had no money. I put a disk in it only. Drove it for the remainder of the life of the truck. Not suggesting you do the same. You know what happens of ot fails. You do the job again.

 

[RubyEclipse]

From what I can see , the clutch plate is gone, pressure plate should be replaced while yer in there and the flywheel, ah the old flywheel trick, , I see radial markings on it but can’t be sure, I’m with the moderator, I like to replace replace replace.. it bugs me when I do a job and the thing I ‘thought’ about replacing, fails and I get to do the whole thing over

Yep, I am with that. I’m going to get a new clutch kit with both the disk and plate. And take my flywheel in to get redone.

You have to decide.
I'll tell you my story....truck I owned as a teenager needed a clutch. I had no money. I put a disk in it only. Drove it for the remainder of the life of the truck. Not suggesting you do the same. You know what happens of ot fails. You do the job again.

Yeah, that’s exactly what I’m worried of. I think im going to just get it resurfaced and call it. I am estimated to spend about 800-900 bucks right now on the total rebuild. This is with some additional suspension parts I wanted. Like bushings, tie rod end that’s stripped, thrust washers, sway bar links, and ball joints. I also have the clutch kit, crank seals, front and rear, CV axles, left and right. Tell me if im missing anything guys, this pricing is including all these parts, the full rebuild gasket kit (rings, bearings all of it.) plus the engine resurfacing.

I hopefully can make all of this money, if not I am going to have to go to my parents for extra work, early maybe birthday money, and whatever else I can do. Thank you all for getting me this far, I am so so so excited to get this rebuilt. Let me know if I need to do or check anything with my transmission. I will be asking for a perfect walkthrough when rebuilding before I do a single thing, I am terrified up messing something of and spending so much more.

 

[Bigbeanbird]

I hopefully can make all of this money, if not I am going to have to go to my parents for extra work, early maybe birthday money, and whatever else I can do. Thank you all for getting me this far, I am so so so excited to get this rebuilt. Let me know if I need to do or check anything with my transmission. I will be asking for a perfect walkthrough when rebuilding before I do a single thing, I am terrified up messing something of and spending so much more.

Dude, just be careful and very sure of the work you have done and it will be fine.. certain things you MUST do, others you can fudge a little.. I paid 1000 bucks for my 97 and put in more than that to get it back in shape to run.. it’s only money.. Of course mine is not a DD so if it sits for a spell, we both take a break.. I think it’s gonna be a fast little car when yer done..