Resolved 2G Engine Rebuild

[RubyEclipse]

Hello everyone! I just purchased my 1996 Eclipse GST a few months ago, had some issues with a few different things. Most recent was car was smoking and running very uneasy, so I decided to pull the engine. I am going to do a full engine rebuild-ish, I bought new wisco heads, still looking at the rods I want, if there’s anything anyone thinks I should buy and upgrade I would love help! Trying to push more power but not an insane amount seeing how I want this to be more of a daily but not quite. Thank you guys!

 

[pauleyman]

I am not using that tool, I don’t actually know what it is or what it looks like.

Here is an example of the threaded rod and eccentric pulley tools in action. The threaded rod pushes on the arm which holds the hydraulic tensioner down. The other tool has 2 pins which stick into the pulley. The tool allows you to tension the pulley with enough room to fit a wrench/socket on the bolt while you hold the pulley in position.
Doesn't matter what method you use. What matters is when it's all installed the check is to spin the motor 6 times then check the marks and check the protrusion of the tensioner. If any of it is wrong you reinstall the pin and try again, whether that's moving a tooth on one or more gears or simply you didnt get the tension right the first time.
Fyi my first try took about 5 times. Follow us and you shouldn't take 5.
What yiu should notice is the pin in the tensioner is tight. When you start to turn the eccentric pulley the pin will get loose. Right at that point is when the tension is right. Thats IF there was no slack. That's why I kept telling you about it. What can happen is yiu get it all tensioned, looks good, then you rotate 6 times and notice the tension is wrong. That's almost always because there was a little slack. You can avoid this by taking the cam tool out(yiu shouldn't need it anymore) and rotate the crank just a tooth or so. Then proceed to the tensioning steps. It does not matter that you moved crank slightly. If you want to have it all lined up while tensioning then put a wrench on the exhaust cam and turn backwards a tooth then turn crank forwards where all marks lone up again. That will ensure no slack.
Clear as mud? Ask questions if you have any.

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The bolt on the tensioner pulley is loose, it is not tightened. I will send more photos of the cams when I get home, any angles you want most?

Just so we can verify the pins. I couldn't quite tell on the intake. Its probably right given the marks but I don't have one in front of me.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Ok got it, I bought a tool for the tensioner, it’ll be here tomorrow. I’m just moving it that over for tension and then tightening down the bold, anything else?

 

[pauleyman]

Ok got it, I bought a tool for the tensioner, it’ll be here tomorrow. I’m just moving it that over for tension and then tightening down the bold, anything else?

No that's pretty much it. Did you get the 2 pins tool and the bolt? I can provide tips based on what you have.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I don’t know what bolt you’re talking about but yes, I bought the 2 pins took, it’ll be here tomorrow.

 

[pauleyman]

I don’t know what bolt you’re talking about but yes, I bought the 2 pins took, it’ll be here tomorrow.

The long bolt that goes through the motor mount. I showed a pic. No matter. It's not a requirement.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Ok sounds good. Is there anything I should do waiting for the tool?

 

[pauleyman]

Ok sounds good. Is there anything I should do waiting for the tool?

If you haven't already you can start putting other stuff back together. Head is bolted down, you can add oil, add coolant if you have all the hoses back on etc. Leave the spark plugs out if you haven't already installed. Easier to spin motor for the next step.

 

[RubyEclipse]

If you haven't already you can start putting other stuff back together. Head is bolted down, you can add oil, add coolant if you have all the hoses back on etc. Leave the spark plugs out if you havemt already installed. Easier torn spin motor for the next step.

I had one out so I can find the exact tdc, but I’ll get them out it’s not a big deal. I’ll start putting everything else back on when I get home today.

Ok i did get the tool, for her as tight as I could get it on the tension, or as I was told, 4-5 o’clock for the dots. Then tightened the bolt and spun it a lot, like 7-10 times. And everything lines back up perfectly, nothing is off and the belt didn’t come off!

I put the intake manifold back yesterday, today I’m going to do the exhaust while I wait for my new motor mount to come in. Anything else I need to do before I call this a wrap with the timing?

Got it all done.

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Also what are all of these gaskets…? I have zero clue what any of them are. I recognize only the turbo oil one.

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[pauleyman]

Got it all done.

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Did you rotate the motor yet? You need to turn it 6 full turns and that should lineup everything. I assume you also made sure the oil pump/balance shaft is in phase? Remember the bolt you had to remove to hold the shaft? Finally, and this is VERY important. You must check the hydraulic tensioner protrusion. Most of us use the pin method. If the pin slides freely we call it good. The manual has a measurement and you can use a go no go gauge, or a drill bit or something to check it.
Typically I use the pulley tool to tighten the belt. Once you tighten enough you can feel the pin loosen you hold there and tighten the bolt. If the pin isn't loose after 6 turns of the motor you put the tool back and do it again.

Also what are all of these gaskets…? I have zero clue what any of them are. I recognize only the turbo oil one.

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The kit is somewhat generic for multiple cars. Top two are thermostat housing for another car.
Round no idea. Next to that is throttle body gasket also for another car I think. Last is turbo oil drain and egr valve off the intake manifold.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Did you rotate the motor yet? You need to turn it 6 full turns and that should lineup everything. I assume you also made sure the oil pump/balance shaft is in phase? Remember the bolt you had to remove to hold the shaft? Finally, and this is VERY important. You must check the hydraulic tensioner protrusion. Most of us use the pin method. If the pin slides freely we call it good. The manual has a measurement and you can use a go no go gauge, or a drill bit or something to check it.
Typically I use the pulley tool to tighten the belt. Once you tighten enough you can feel the pin loosen you hold there and tighten the bolt. If the pin isn't loose after 6 turns of the motor you put the tool back and do it again.


The kit is somewhat generic for multiple cars. Too two are thermostat housing for another car.
Round no idea. Next to that is throttle body gasket also for another car I think. Last is turbo oil drain and egr valve off the intake manifold.

Yes I rotated the motor. And yes everything is in phase and I did put that bolt back and tightened it down. I did do the hydraulic method, I watched videos on that and pin cane out easily and slid back in easily too. I knew the oil drain but I’ll just chuck the rest of them since they’re useless.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Also what are all of these gaskets…? I have zero clue what any of them are. I recognize only the turbo oil one.

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round one looks like a 1g Fuel tank sending unit gasket- but just guessing

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Has anyone noticed that the tensioner arm has no big washer on it? Sorry to bring it up now, but I feel it is important to point out. I'm not sure how well it will work and not eat into the bushing. Just something I noticed. In it's absence, I have used a "fender" washer, the large diameter with a small hole type. Just about any hardware store or auto parts store has them.

 

[RubyEclipse]

Has anyone noticed that the tensioner arm has no big washer on it? Sorry to bring it up now, but I feel it is important to point out. I'm not sure how well it will work and not eat into the bushing. Just something I noticed. In it's absence, I have used a "fender" washer, the large diameter with a small hole type. Just about any hardware store or auto parts store has them.

Ok, I can pick ok up if you’d like, which tensioner is that again?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Ok, I can pick ok up if you’d like, which tensioner is that again?

Must have a big washer here:

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[RubyEclipse]

Must have a big washer here:

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Got it. I’ll go pick one up today.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Got it. I’ll go pick one up today.

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[RubyEclipse]

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Do I need to redo the tensioner and stuff then?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Do I need to redo the tensioner and stuff then?

Should not need to undo the t-belt. Just remove a bolt, add washer, replace bolt

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

No, the arm pivots on a large stud with a threaded hole in the middle so you should be able to remove the bolt, put on a large washer and reinstall the bolt to proper torque, so this time you got lucky!

 

[RubyEclipse]

No, the arm pivots on a large stud with a threaded hole in the middle so you should be able to remove the bolt, put on a large washer and reinstall the bolt to proper torque, so this time you got lucky!

Yeah no kidding! so very happy, I forgot about the threaded middle thing in it.

 

[Justin DuBois]

If you are not going to run a TB cover, at least get one if these timing mark indicators so you can use a timing light to verify base timing.

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[RubyEclipse]

I have a top timing cover, no middle or lower. The website you sent no longer has it available or I just can’t find it on anything. I checked throughout the whole thing and couldn’t find one.

 

[pauleyman]

Yes I rotated the motor. And yes everything is in phase and I did put that bolt back and tightened it down. I did do the hydraulic method, I watched videos on that and pin cane out easily and slid back in easily too. I knew the oil drain but I’ll just chuck the rest of them since they’re useless.

I didn't mean put the bolt back. I mean when all 5 marks lined up yiu need to be able to slide that screwdriver in the bolt hole. If you can't that rear shaft is out of phase.

 

[RubyEclipse]

I didn't mean put the bolt back. I mean when all 5 marks lined up yiu need to be able to slide that screwdriver in the bolt hole. If you can't that rear shaft is out of phase.

Oh oh got it. Ok I’ll make sure it’s in phase tonight. Got it.

 

[pauleyman]

Oh oh got it. Ok I’ll make sure it’s in phase tonight. Got it.

I was hoping you started out with it in position after you took the gear off. Double check is no big deal.