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If your theft alarm horn (behind battery) stopped (if it doesn't, pull the theft alarm horn relay) but the regular horn still honks, locate the 2 diode pair in the orange casing plug above the interior fusebox (see post 14). It has 3 wires, red, green-black, blue. Try unplugging it or if no connector cut the green-black to disable the regular horn (only when alarm goes off) or the blue to disable both the regular horn and the headlights flashing (and tape the ends up).
You might try grounding the green-white left door panel wire described here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/371398-2g-factory-alarm-going-off.html#post152220542. He calls it a factory disarm wire but I looked at the diagrams and it's actually the left door unlock wire. It probably would disarm the alarm but your door locks may then not work (may never be able to lock them) so you'll have to try it.
There's no fuse unique to the alarm as the alarm is in the ETACS-ECU which controls all kinds of non-engine stuff.
I assume you mean the ETACS-ECU control unit. No, as I said the factory alarm is just one of many things that unit controls. It doesn't appear there is any one fuse or wire that is just for the alarm. Perhaps there is an option in the odbii unit that Mitsubishi technitions connect to test things with which could disable it, I don't know. Perhaps Steve or Old Mitsu Tech might know.
If you can't disable the alarm the next best thing is to prevent unwanted alarm things from going off like horns and flashing lights. I can help you to disable those functions by identifying wires to cut. Or even better, identify the sensor that is causing the alarm to go off and disable it.
Hey how's it going.
I'm brand new to these forums and so far im lovin it =D
Anyway, funny thing i see this post because just yesterday i had a similar issue. I unlocked the car from the inside when it was turned off since i had the window open and the alarm went crazy. I took out the fuse for it from the inside and the sound stopped but then my headlights were all flashing as if the hazards were on. The relays were ticking as well. I then took out the headlights fuse and kept it out for a while. After that everything seems ok now. I took out the horn fuse as well though. I dont know if this will help at all but thats just how i "fixed" mine.
Haha you are going to love me. Open both doors and find your door switches on the bottom of the doors unscrew them and disconnect them. Use electric tape and tail the connection to the switch and feed it back in so u can get to it again then screw the switch back on the doors. Your door light and security lights will never come back on but your car will always think that the doors are closed and not locked. This will not affect your battery as well yea buddy your welcome
soo i have a 98 gs and i recently did an engine swap and it will not start i believe its the alarm system deactivating the cpu but ive got no clue how to dectivate it or even where it is if anyone can help that would be great
okay so i figured out that im not even getting power out of my pcm after my engine swap its not bad cause ive got 2 of them neither work and they both used to work perfect so does anyone know what could be deactivating it anything at all ? any help would be great.
The link only shows 2 locations for the ground, there are usually 4 -6 ground connections on most vehicles but I'm not positive on the 2g. My camaro with the ls1 had 4 grounding connections
Your comment about a vehicle antitheft system disabling the car would make sense on a vehicle equipped with a chipped key antitheft system, however the 2g eclipse can use a home depot or walmart cut generic car key. After you know for sure all the wiring is connected and everything is correct I would double check the fuse box for the ignition or the ignition relay. Assuming you had 2 running vehicles to make 1 everything should have worked first try, the only other explanation would be that there is a poor ground somewhere that possibly caused a fuse to blow and now your ignition switch isn't working correctly
Long story short, you could have blown a fuse when you connected the battery terminals
thanks man still not working but im checking im getting really upset about it because ive been working on it for months now and its still not working so basically im not getting any power to the coil pack im not getting any power to my intierior lights no nothing my stereo wont come on nothing and i really need it soon ive got 24 days to fix it
The alternative to wire cutting and fuse pulling is to fix the problem with the alarm system.
When you lock up the car that sets the alarm. There's a green light on the dash that comes on for 20 seconds; I think you can do 'illegitimate' things during that period (like reach in an open window to open the door using the lock button) without triggering the alarm. Once the green light goes out, the system is armed and any attempt to enter wrongly (pry open hood or trunk, open a door with a jimmy, etc.) will trigger the alarm.
The alarm is turned off when you put the key in either door lock and open the door that way. (Not sure about the trunk -- need to read the owner's manual and find out about that.)
My car's a '95 GS-T, 'new' about two months back, with a list of 58 things needing fixing so far. The problem of 'alarm goes off when you unlock car and open the door' was #34 but I managed to fix it accidentally.
I was swapping the interior from a parts car. When I pulled off the driver's door trim pad (two screws front edge, two rear edge, one in hand pull pocket and one under the inside release handle, yank the push fasteners loose starting at the bottom) I found the rod from the inside release back to the latch assembly almost glued in place under the nylon guide with that black 3M sealant. No clue how that happened but no matter which way you tried to move it, it went only a little way. So ... I cleaned that up just on general morality without thinking that it would fix anything.
And VOILA! The alarm problem was GONE. It works perfectly now.
The door latch assembly -- the part that actually fastens the door closed -- contains switches that tell the rest of the system whether the door is latched (meaning fully closed) and also whether it is locked or not. (AFAIK the button switch at the bottom of the door ONLY operates courtesy lights -- it isn't connected to the electric door lock system. I know this is true of other Mitsu models in those years.)
Anyway my theory is that because of the semi-glued rod, the switch to say 'door has been unlocked with the key' didn't have a long enough stroke to work, even though the door WAS unlocked. Cleaning up the rod allowed a normal stroke and made that go away.
It seems to me that the 'alarm goes off even though door unlocked with key' symptom must always mean either that switch isn't operating because it's not moving far enough or something equivalent, like a broken wire or dead switch. Before disabling the alarm I'd pull that trim pad and do an inspection to see that everything moves freely. I would also lube the latch assembly -- WD-40 with the white lithium grease worked well on mine. The latching function should work very freely with a fingertip in the slot -- just be sure to unlatch it before you slam the door!