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2g camber adjustment?

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ed1380

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2,971
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Sep 29, 2007
ATL, Georgia
I took my rear wheels off and saw this. It looks like offset bushings and spacers. Can someone confirm it nd why would anyone want that much positive camber?

Also I believe it looks like front offset eyebolts. I didn't know they made those???

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For a lowered car to bring Camber it back to spec.
 
Yes that is an SPC/Ingalls type rear camber kit.
It appears to be adjusted, as you noticed, to give positive camber. Think of it more as removing too much negative camber, if that helps at all.

What does your current alignment look like?
 
It also looks like it has them on the front. I didn't know anyone made them. I though the only way was to shim it. How's the quality on them?

I'm going to be adjusting ride height, because I got new wheels. I'll be doing my own alignment.
 
Can't shim the front. Instead, you get eccentric bushings and use them in the stock eyes or in new, offset eye-bolts.
 
I, personally, really hate that slider-type front camber adjuster. Plus, you really need more front camber, not less, and it can't be turned around. I would go back to stock or get SP eccentrics, instead.

Think twice about lowering the eye-bolts. Charles made the good point that it will make you gain camber in dive (i.e., under braking), as well as shorten the lifespan of your towers. Unless you're in the mood to play guinea-pig, maybe wait on that mod.
 
Good point about the dive. I didnt think about that.
I'm not worried about the towers now. I doubt street tires will put enough load on it. Ill probably be placed in unlimited, so I'd like to do everything I can
 
I've caught snippets of that conversation, I thought someone was already doing it. As far as doing it, there's 3/8 of thread above the nuts so I can machine adapters up to that length. Iirc 1/2" increases stress by 20% so 3/8 is 15% I'm not worried about that on a 90k chassis and street tires

Care to elaborate on your process? No offense, but for a guy that just discovered camber kits it's fairly lofty. There's hardly any discussion about it even, if at all, until just 2 days ago.
 
I've caught snippets of that conversation, I thought someone was already doing it. As far as doing it, there's 3/8 of thread above the nuts so I can machine adapters up to that length. Iirc 1/2" increases stress by 20% so 3/8 is 15% I'm not worried about that on a 90k chassis and street tires

Be sure to document. :)
 
As long as you zero the toe all around, run about as much front camber as you can get, with a max at about 3*. Then set the rear to about 1/3 to 1/2 of the front.
 
Would I have to worry about extra tire wear over 1-1.5*?
Back when I used to drive the 1g on the street I ran -1.8 in the front and -1 in the rear. It was a good street setting for me that resulted in very little extra wear. Might be different on a 2g though.
 
I ran -2.5* / -1.5 on my 2G with a touch of front toe-out and still had no issues. Of course, my streets were my rains, so I had many opportunities to even out the wear. tee hee
 
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