Road Race Build 2G Auto Time Attack race build!

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Excuse my not knowing but Which are the rear upper knuckles? I thought they were part of the new upper suspension part you sent?

No these bushes are in the knuckle itself, these are seperate, my kit just replacd the inner arm bushes with rod ends, not the bush in the knuckle

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Been busy lately working on the car and development of parts but progress is being made,

A while ago i got my time attack light installed and all wired in. Its super bright and i hate wiring as i always say, but i did it and im happy it works first time aswel.

I then moved forward to make a plate in the dash air bag area for my power outlets and track formula wireless control unit, which needs wiring still a d wont be done till i do the cage which is due to be done soon (made by myself) of course, means less wiring to redo since the dash needs to be removed for the install.

Over this weekend i got my battery relocation done and finished up, (not done by me) the guys down the road from my work did it as they build race cars alot and build ultimas for the company so i trust them and they the only folks who have touched my car, wired in the FIA cutoff switch which i have to run, kills everything! Also made a plate to go where the fog/mirror/cruise switches were to house my ctek battery charger port, figured its easier this way and i dont have to pop the hood all the time now,

Other then those parts ive been getting in small bits ready for when i put all the engine parts on, things like nuts/bolts, clamps which are special constant tension clamps to silicone hoses, im trying to get everything needed to avoid as much down time as possible.

Tuning will be hard for me since im new to it and ecmlink but ive watched the videos and know how to start so i have a decent basic idea! Lets hope it goes well when i get to it!

 

[TSiAWD666]

I like the ctek port. I'm gonna have to do that.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I like the ctek port. I'm gonna have to do that.

Well worth it, i moved my charger in the garage to be right next to the door for easy connection and with the extension from ctek if i left it outside it can sit through the lower door seal while locked still,

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

So recently i been getting stuff done thats been put off and i cam across a big issue! A while back i bought this alternator pully because i wanted to make sure i dont kill my race battery and fry the alternator, more precaution then anything, its from kiggly racing and it was first launched a while ago,

Forward to last weekend and i tried to fit it and what do you know! It wont fit! Go back online and it now states "1g dsm" fitment!

So thats great its a 15mm bore vs our 17mm bore but its not as simple as bore it out either! The spacings wrong the offset is wrong! Everything is wrong good job i love to engineer new things and make ways around things that work,

So i ended up boring out the pully flipping the pully and having a hat piece seat between the alt bearing and pully all with clearance to spin and sit at its correct height! In theory it should work fine but i would also like to see the effects it has on a 2G output.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Update on my dash, as some of you are aware i was going to flock it, and infact the whole console and kick panels to make it suit nicer, this was because im fed up of the sun glare ee get on our 2G dashes! Its a killer sometimes and dangerous so i went and bought my own midrange flocking gun and kit and its the first time ever doing such a job. So im no expert here haha. My first piece was OK! At bes, the glue was not thin enough but looked ok, so i spent some more money and got some extra parts like acetone, micing pits and other bits to help make and mix stuff, and its worked well, glue was thinner and went on easier,

Glue is deceiving as its thin but its not thin enough so when your brains saying no its too thin you put it on and its thick as tar, so you thin it more and now you say "oh man i have gone too far" but thats where you have to over rule your brain here, the thinner the better to put on and the fibers stick better!

This is the only picture i have at present as its still drying and wont be ready to touch and shake the excess off till tomorrow and then i can get a pic in the light outside and show if its come out good or not, im not overly fussed on how good it is as im new to this and its to serve a job and not win beauty or car shows it looks good though and as long as it stops light glare im happy!

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Progress!! Ish,

Firstly the dash came out ok, im not expecting a pro job for the unit i bought and i have never even done flocking before but it will do the job and do it well, i mixed the glue wrong and by weight rather then volume so it did not take as well as it could have so the company said! I also cut the back sides out so the cage can sit nicely behind it so i can remove the dash again in the future if needs be so more planning ahead then anything else,

CAGE!!!!! Well sort of! What happened was i made it from 38mm tube and had it made to FIA regs 45mm but the guy who bent it and copied mine and i assumed it was correct! But failed and i only found this out this weekend! Upon installing it! It sits above my head and its not safe nor legal so i have told him and we are arranging a date to have it re done again correctly this time! I just wiah i checked it when he done them rather then just assumenit was right! This is also exactly why i do everything myself if i can! Want it done right the do it yourself!!!!! Tube bend Pics are too large to upload so will add some later on.

So i managed to get the base plates and supports mocked up and welded in except the top plates as i will remove these to drop the cage down to weld the tops of the cage other wise its not able to be done how i have it set then raise it up to weld the rest in place,
It goes through the dash and to the rear shock towers!

The bolts for the rear shocks i found out had somehow pulled up metal like it has twisted and the outside was nearly cracking! Nearly! Pic shows what it had done. I tapped it back down flst again and not sure how it done this as the nuts are tight!! Weird.

The rear shock base plates are welded in now with the cross bar which is now my rear strut brace, nice and strong, the rear back stays from the main hoop will also tie into the shock towers at close to 30* angles that are listed in the MSA/FIA regs,

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

I also took out all the metal under the dash as it was rusting on its surface as most dont have any protection at all from the factory! Then i blasted it all and had it clear zinc plated, its now looking amazing and fresh and should not rust for a very long time! Not exactly needed but i love to make every detail count if im doing a job and the dash was out so was the perfect time to do all of this! All new zinc socket cap bolts installed aswell, the only part i did not swap was the shifter as i could no get the OD buton off and did not fancy breaking it but its ok as its hidden and looked pretty clean compared to the rest,

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Put the rest of the dash and kick panels in to protect wiring and such, seems to be a good finish considering mixing the glue wrong, im happy and it does work well, had sun on it the other day and not 1 bit of glare or reflection off the windshield! It passed the test!!!

 

[TSiAWD666]

On the roll cage the point where the upper door frame bar is welded into the hoop is too far towards the center. On mine it's welded kind of where in your second picture your finger visually crosses the hoop. The door frame bar then kind of follows the dimpled stock frame metal (seen in your pic) along the upper part of the door frame making two bends before it connects to the bar that goes across the top of the windshield. I don't know the terms for this stuff so don't laugh too much at my made up terminology. Doing it this way gives me JUST enough room for my head in a helmet with the requisite bar padding up there, but if I move my head slightly left I can hit that padding. My seat though is a couple inches back from where most are as I don't use the stock mounting studs/bolts and likely have a different torso length so you might have slightly more room up there. I am just sharing this to show one way the cage bar can be made to give you the head room as it's a very very tight fit up there.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

On the roll cage the point where the upper door frame bar is welded into the hoop is too far towards the center. On mine it's welded kind of where in your second picture your finger visually crosses the hoop. The door frame bar then kind of follows the dimpled stock frame metal (seen in your pic) along the upper part of the door frame making two bends before it connects to the bar that goes across the top of the windshield. I don't know the terms for this stuff so don't laugh too much at my made up terminology. Doing it this way gives me JUST enough room for my head in a helmet with the requisite bar padding up there, but if I move my head slightly left I can hit that padding. My seat though is a couple inches back from where most are as I don't use the stock mounting studs/bolts and likely have a different torso length so you might have slightly more room up there. I am just sharing this to show one way the cage bar can be made to give you the head room as it's a very very tight fit up there.

Yeah this was just to show its wrong location, my unhappy face gives it away haha Where my finger is pointing is where it should have been as my original was where my finger is also pointing, he bent them wrong and is going to sort it out on the 19th for me after i get back from Monza, it will follow the outer pillar as close as possible,

I also am making new seat rails to drop and move the seat back, as i am 6'1" i am not exactly short , i need as much head room as possible and with the padding as you say it takes a bit of room for your head

 

[slowwhite]

New seat brackets that move the seat down and back.... yes please... new group buy!
I'm 6'4" and I have to lean in the stock seats with it reclined and I still touch the headliner.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

These are not brackets and will be welded in place upon my final choice of location, my stock bodywork / seat bolt on area has to be cut a bit for this to work as intended,

 

[slowwhite]

I really need to learn to weld.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Its a good idea to learn basics at least, but many forget when working on cars to disconnet the battery or ecu, for safety and to not ruin them

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Got aome good progress dne today! Finally after 6 months of issues and having the bars rebent the cage is going in!

It started with me reading my rules wrong then me having some guy make my bends but did them wrong so it delayed and time is not something i had lots off so i did stuff inbetween to keep progress moving but now finally after having the guy sort his issues out of not bending them correctly (kinda) i wanted new tubes as they was going to be too short but he would not do it so i had ti make do! Guess what they too short .

I pulled the main hoop forward a tad to close the gap and all is well now, finishing it off tomorrow and then on to the seat install.

Some of you may remember my thread about cage tips and such and i wanted to keep rear seats! Well that went out the window so it now has a full weld in cage with rear X brace, but no X brace for the main hoop to the floor as it will block my seat going back further so i may 1 day add a / support but only if it does not block my seats from sitting in there location!

EDIT!!! Harnesses will be strapped around the rear strut brace/cage bar as this is straight and strong since its welded in

Here are some pics of the day and all tacked up ready for welding! Plus a few fun oarts of the day we had as well. Ha

 

[slowwhite]

How do you plan to mount the harnesses?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

How do you plan to mount the harnesses?

Oh damn i thought i wrote it in the post haha, woops, i will edit it in now,

But they are being strapped around the rear strut brace/cage as the harnesses reach ok and its straight.

 

[slowwhite]

My last car I had issues with head room because my cage didn't allow my sparco seats to recline.
And what you did with the cage would resolve at least 1 aspect of making head room for me (6'4")

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

My last car I had issues with head room because my cage didn't allow my sparco seats to recline.
And what you did with the cage would resolve at least 1 aspect of making head room for me (6'4")

Yeah it certainly helps, its not ultimatly ideal and i will need to find anotuer way to add strength in the main hoop eventually but for now i need leg room im 6'1" so shorter but i still feel cramped haha.

I may see if its allowed to use a X beam from the rear stays to the lower main hoop, is better then nothing

 

[gsx4g64]

Looks amazing.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Looks amazing.

thank you more to come still! just relieved the cage is now done! thats the biggest pita and biggest delay i had!

 

[95eclipser]

Did you buy this or make it?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Well the cage is now done! Fully!! Yay

Installed my new race mirrors (very weird to use and get used to)

Seats/rails and harness are next along with the removeable door bars but this weekend i will be making my new door panels to make more room inside and to remove some more weight, a little bit of course haha.

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Did you buy this or make it?


View attachment 338714

What the floor block off plate. I bought it