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ECMlink 2150 idle problems

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97_4g63t

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472
50
Jun 6, 2010
carlsbad, New Mexico
so I finally got around to installing my 2150s and the car starts but is running real rich. Weird thing is when cranking I hear a strange noise coming from the dash sometimes? My front 02 isn't cycling and my combinedft seems to flatline. ??????? I'm at a complete loss. Any ideas on something to check or adjust?
 

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Use the injector data that came with your 2150's and load deadtimes into your InjBatteryAdj DA table, then follow this.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html

CombinedFT's are flat lined because the car's never going into closedloop.

:dsm:
 
I'll try to video it tomorrow. It only does it every once in awhile. Alright gofer I'll check those out and put them in. I went from 660's to these so it's way different. I'll work on it some more tomorrow. It was making me think a wiring problem but everything was good before and I didn't touch the wiring.
 
Use the injector data that came with your 2150's and load deadtimes into your InjBatteryAdj DA table, then follow this.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/demos/fueltrim.html

CombinedFT's are flat lined because the car's never going into closedloop.

:dsm:

Ok so I put in the dead times the best I could since some of the voltage set points are different on link and fics chart.
at 43.5 it has
8v-1590
10v-1110
12v-860
14v-680
16v-590


my airflow per rev looks good around .25 .26.
I cant change my combinedft though because my car is staying in open loop.
ive read the reasons why it stays in open loop but I don't understand what I need to do to get it into closed loop.
I'm guessing it's running rich because it's in open loop and not making any adjustments????

Oh and I tried to video the noise but you cant hear it on the video.
 

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-64.8 global
-180 dead time

Inj battery offset

7 2249
9 1418
12 920
14 750
16 600
19 540


If you can't get rock steady idle and good fuel trimming with those numbers, you have other issues not related to the injectors that you need to resolve first.

This is on E85, so adjust global accordingly for gasoline.

Hal
 
-64.8 global
-180 dead time

Inj battery offset

7 2249
9 1418
12 920
14 750
16 600
19 540


If you can't get rock steady idle and good fuel trimming with those numbers, you have other issues not related to the injectors that you need to resolve first.

This is on E85, so adjust global accordingly for gasoline.


Hal

UPDATE

I needed a firmware update for these injectors. Downloaded that and now my car goes into closed loop. dead time at 0 makes my combft close to zero. This is the end of a cruise log which I planned to MAFCOMP adjust which is why my openloop thresholds are adjusted. seems like it still doesn't idle right. Driving runs really lean. If I try to accelerate it runs 16-18 afr unless I really slowly let it climb. I haven't done another blt because I need a reducer coupler for the larger turbo. New one was ordered like a week ago though. gonna mess with it some more tomorrow.
 

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Anyone have any ideas? I checked all my exhaust connections yesterday and no leaks. I disconnected my negative terminal last night and it still ran bad this morning. Doing another boost leak test tonight when I get home. Before the problem my header had a huge leak and I was running 660's. I swapped turbo, header, 2150s with res. Plug and plug n play harnesses, redone some intercooler piping and rerouted my harness under my smim. I also used all new gaskets on the exhaust. On my first crank I forgot to plug my coil pack in. After it started I realized my cam sensor was unplugged too. Could that of damaged anything? My check list for now is timing, blt, check electrical plugs and pull fuse for ecu to reset. Anyone got anything else to add? I'm supposed to be getting an alarm installed tuesday so I'm trying to make that.
 
A BLT should always be a first step when you're idling lean and your injector data makes sense. Leaving a CAS/coil pack unplugged won't damage anything trying to start the car, you just don't want to accidently plug the ISC in the injector resistor pack and vise-versa because you can burn up the driver in the ECU.

Your problem doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak though, it seems the o2 swinging rich/lean is causing the WB to overshoot going really rich (13.5:1) then back to lean (17:1).

I had the same issue and was told from Stacy (MY1GDSM) to lock the car in OL below 1500rpm and see if it fixes it. Mine was bad enough it would kill the car because it would swing so rich/lean... I tried it and the car holds a 14.7:1 steady.

To lock it in OL you'll go to your OLThresholds table and put a '0' under the 0 - 1000 - 1500 RPM columns, this basically disables the ECU from watching the narrowband o2 signal and makes it rely on your MAFComp sliders to be adjusted correctly in that RPM range. You'll probably need to do some tweaking of the 0 and 50Hz slider to get to 14.7:1 at idle but it should fix it. After you get over 1500 rpm the ECU will switch to CL and watch the narrowband signal like it would normally under low load cruise conditions.

:dsm:
 
A BLT should always be a first step when you're idling lean and your injector data makes sense. Leaving a CAS/coil pack unplugged won't damage anything trying to start the car, you just don't want to accidently plug the ISC in the injector resistor pack and vise-versa because you can burn up the driver in the ECU.

Your problem doesn't seem to be a vacuum leak though, it seems the o2 swinging rich/lean is causing the WB to overshoot going really rich (13.5:1) then back to lean (17:1).

I had the same issue and was told from Stacy (MY1GDSM) to lock the car in OL below 1500rpm and see if it fixes it. Mine was bad enough it would kill the car because it would swing so rich/lean... I tried it and the car holds a 14.7:1 steady.

To lock it in OL you'll go to your OLThresholds table and put a '0' under the 0 - 1000 - 1500 RPM columns, this basically disables the ECU from watching the narrowband o2 signal and makes it rely on your MAFComp sliders to be adjusted correctly in that RPM range. You'll probably need to do some tweaking of the 0 and 50Hz slider to get to 14.7:1 at idle but it should fix it. After you get over 1500 rpm the ECU will switch to CL and watch the narrowband signal like it would normally under low load cruise conditions.

:dsm:


Alright. When I get the car back together I'll try it. I found a few small leaks but didnt finish fixing them yet. That's what I was thinking gofer. I've been talking to stacy about tuning my car. I'll get with him and see what he thinks. Only bad thing about that is it would still drive lean. Maybe my Boost leaks are worse than I think. Idk
 
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