20g build & cam combo.

[1gAWD92]

Hey tuners im about little less then half way done with my 20g build and engine clean up. the question i have for y'all is what would be a modest cam, valve, and spring combo for this build? Nothing to aggressive. ill be sending the block and head out to the machine shop soonish i was thinking of some Brian Crower 272's but im open to suggestions.

the goal for this build is a street-able, clean, and track ride on a budget.

est. # 300hp&275tq with room to grow. which should be easy to hit.

any input is greatly appreciated.

-Thanks
Bryce

 

[Steve93Talon]

We ran FP2s with stock springs and valves on a 20g, best of 11.02 @ 126.79 at 28psi. The car had previously gone 123 best on HKS 264/272s.

 

[1gAWD92]

We ran FP2s with stock springs and valves on a 20g, best of 11.02 @ 126.79 at 28psi. The car had previously gone 123 best on HKS 264/272s.

wow thats impressive. is that on pump gas? thats good news that you dont necessarily have to get different springs and valves for those cams. the machinist that will be doing the work on the head said to find the cams that i want the lift and duration from them. cause he'll be able to regrind the valves.

anybody running Comp Cams?

 

[turbo23]

wow thats impressive. is that on pump gas? thats good news that you dont necessarily have to get different springs and valves for those cams. the machinist that will be doing the work on the head said to find the cams that i want the lift and duration from them. cause he'll be able to regrind the valves.

anybody running Comp Cams?

Not sure why he would need to know the lift and duration in order to grind the valves.. Hope he's not planning on changing the height of the valve by cutting the seat in the head or the seat angle on the valve.. The Comp 101200 cam is the same as an FP2 and will work well with a 20g on a 2.0l engine with the stock intake manifold.. Stay stock compression with these cams as well.

 

[LaserRS92]

Why do you recommend the stock compression ratio with those cams?

 

[turbo23]

With a higher compression you would benefit from running a larger intake cam. Depending on fuel choice possibly a larger exhaust cam also. Not that they would work, just wouldn't be the best choice.

 

[1gAWD92]

Not sure why he would need to know the lift and duration in order to grind the valves.. Hope he's not planning on changing the height of the valve by cutting the seat in the head or the seat angle on the valve.. The Comp 101200 cam is the same as an FP2 and will work well with a 20g on a 2.0l engine with the stock intake manifold.. Stay stock compression with these cams as well.

He just wants to make sure the clearances from the pistons and valves will be safe. dont want to be hitting the valves with the pistons you know.

I have 2g pistons in the block already so that should bring me up from 7.5:1 to 8.5:1 you think ill be safe with that set up? i should be good to go.


PS does anybody know a way of macgyvering a valve spring compressor?

 

[BogusSVO]

So many run the Comp/FP2 and the BC272 cams and not had issue with valve to piston contact with a properly set timing belt.

Good the machinist thought to ask that question tho, shows he is thinking. It also shows that he is not fully familiar with the 4g63 engine.

As far as your build is, it is nothing outside the norm and that has been done several times before, and so has gained a proven status as solid build.

 

[bigbird94]

For the valve spring compressor take a 5' long ,1" thick steel rod and put a |_| shaped piece on the end that will fit snug over the spring and retainer. Put the head on the ground, use the length of the shaft for leverage, have a buddy grab the keepers with a magnet.

 

[dsmcurse]

BluePoint part-number GA318A

Next time the Snap-On dealer comes to your work (or maybe your buddys work) pick up this tool. It makes this kind of work simple. Plus its a very affordable tool. If i remember it only cost me like 80 bucks?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEo8wtB0Rpk]Blue Point "on block" cylinder head valve tool - YouTube[/ame]

 

[1gAWD92]

So many run the Comp/FP2 and the BC272 cams and not had issue with valve to piston contact with a properly set timing belt.

Good the machinist thought to ask that question tho, shows he is thinking. It also shows that he is not fully familiar with the 4g63 engine.

As far as your build is, it is nothing outside the norm and that has been done several times before, and so has gained a proven status as solid build.

yeah the machinest is great to work with, and i think that he has only done one other 4g63 before, but the that guy gave him rav reviews!

last monday i was working on the block and gave him a call for some advice on how to prevent me from scratcing the cylinder walls when i take the pistons out. told me to get about 5/16th in. hose and cut it to fit the piston rod bolts if i decided to take them out the top. but taking a secound look at it, it might be a better idea to take them out from the bottom.

BluePoint part-number GA318A

Next time the Snap-On dealer comes to your work (or maybe your buddys work) pick up this tool. It makes this kind of work simple. Plus its a very affordable tool. If i remember it only cost me like 80 bucks?

Blue Point "on block" cylinder head valve tool - YouTube

i like that! ill def talk to the Snap-On guy soon.

 

[Cdc1221]

Have you thought about delta regrinds? They're cheaper and work really well.

 

[BogusSVO]

The pistons will not come out the bottom, crank side,they will get hung up on the main webbing and you will really have issues

I have yet come across an engine that the pistons come out the crank side of the block.

Once you have the crank out, you should be able to just push the rod/piston out the top,head side, with your hand.

You will want the hose for the rod bolts when you go to install the pistons, so the rod bolts will not hit the crank and ding it up.


Go ahead and port the front oil galleys of the block since you have the engine all the way down.
All you want to do is smooth out what is there. Getting rid of any cast flashing that will disturb the oil flow.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/452546-4g63-block-oiling-mod.html#post153148047

 

[1gAWD92]

Have you thought about delta regrinds? They're cheaper and work really well.

no i have not, who or where would i get that done?(edit) just looked them up. and that company looks pretty legit. ill keep them in mind

The pistons will not come out the bottom, crank side,they will get hung up on the main webbing and you will really have issues

I have yet come across an engine that the pistons come out the crank side of the block.

Once you have the crank out, you should be able to just push the rod/piston out the top,head side, with your hand.

You will want the hose for the rod bolts when you go to install the pistons, so the rod bolts will not hit the crank and ding it up.


Go ahead and port the front oil galleys of the block since you have the engine all the way down.
All you want to do is smooth out what is there. Getting rid of any cast flashing that will disturb the oil flow.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/452546-4g63-block-oiling-mod.html#post153148047

Thanks my friend you have bin a big help for me on this thread. and come this weekend ill give yall updates on my progress.

 

[Cdc1221]

I ran a set in my tsi. You'll still want adjustable can gears, as there is a little overlap. But the quality of their work is superb, and you can send your cams to them as cores and knock the price down some

 

[1gAWD92]

I ran a set in my tsi. You'll still want adjustable can gears, as there is a little overlap. But the quality of their work is superb, and you can send your cams to them as cores and knock the price down some

Ru talking about the Delta Cams? I'm not going to run adjustable cam gears yet, until i know exactly how to use them to there full potential and do my homework on them.

 

[1gAWD92]

So i think i have decided on the cams i want to go with, ill be going with the BC272's on the stock springs and valves. based on price and and reviews that i have found, and what y'all have suggested. thanks for all your help. ill keep yall updated on my progress this monday.

Thanks,
-Bryce

BluePoint part-number GA318A

Next time the Snap-On dealer comes to your work (or maybe your buddys work) pick up this tool. It makes this kind of work simple. Plus its a very affordable tool. If i remember it only cost me like 80 bucks?

Blue Point "on block" cylinder head valve tool - YouTube

I gave the the part number to a buddy of mine that works and a Dodge dealer yesterday so hopefully he will be able to find it for me when the Snap-On rep comes by.

 

[BogusSVO]

Good chance your stock springs are weak.

With the BC272 cams, you should install the BC1100 springs w/ stock retainers.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/466233-checking-4g63-valve-springs.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...omparison-stock-hks-bc1100.html#post152945194

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...2-evo-viii-stock-dsm-manley-brian-crower.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html

 

[RWD4G63]

Is your 20G a TD05 or TD06? Are you on the stock intake manifold? Both of these things are going to have a large effect on your camshaft choice. Shoot me a PM, I can probably find you a better camshaft for your application.

 

[1gAWD92]

Is your 20G a TD05 or TD06? Are you on the stock intake manifold? Both of these things are going to have a large effect on your camshaft choice. Shoot me a PM, I can probably find you a better camshaft for your application.

no it is not a real MHI TD05 or 06. here is some pics. a fellow tuner put this together for me 20g compressor wheel evo 7cm hot side so on and so forth.

yes to the stock intake manifold.

made some good progress on the engine block on Monday! got the pistons and crank out. now im ready for the machine shop!

the only thing im worrying about is, if you look at the last pic of the block, the lower bolt for the front engine mount broke. a piece of the cast iron broke off.i do have the piece that broke off. and my question to yall is. Is it possible to weld that back on and retap it? or am i screwed?

 

[1gAWD92]

just got some bad news about the 6 bolt block i was going to have cleaned up. turns out its just a giant papper wieght. the brokin piece on the front engine mount is not fixable.
So if anybody has a 6 bolt short block for sale, please PM me asap

 

[RWD4G63]

Cast iron is definitely hard to weld. I have seen a few people weld up holes in their blocks though! Sucks to hear, good luck on your search for another one.

 

[99gst_racer]

the brokin piece on the front engine mount is not fixable.

I don't see why it cannot be repaired.

 

[BogusSVO]

I have seen the outer mounting ear on a SBC bust off and be foxed too often to believe that your engine mount boss can not be fixed.

Take it to a welding shop, not a machine shop.

Take the piece that busted off, and the block, where the piece mates to the block, bevel the edge, on both the block and piece, about a third, this will give the welder a good groove to follow.

When you go to the welding shop, ask them before they weld, to pre-heat the area of the block and the piece with a rose bud torch, then tig

The pre heat will allow the tig weld to penetrate better.

when you get it home, it will not all be perfectly aligned,

Rol-lock the face of the boss flat.

Drill, tap, and install the proper sized heli-coil

 

[1gAWD92]

I have seen the outer mounting ear on a SBC bust off and be foxed too often to believe that your engine mount boss can not be fixed.

Take it to a welding shop, not a machine shop.

Take the piece that busted off, and the block, where the piece mates to the block, bevel the edge, on both the block and piece, about a third, this will give the welder a good groove to follow.

When you go to the welding shop, ask them before they weld, to pre-heat the area of the block and the piece with a rose bud torch, then tig

The pre heat will allow the tig weld to penetrate better.

when you get it home, it will not all be perfectly aligned,

Rol-lock the face of the boss flat.

Drill, tap, and install the proper sized heli-coil

problem with that idea BogusSVO is the piece that broke of was just JB weld, so i guess the last owner of the car broke it and jerry riged it just to get it back on the road.
here are some pics of the piece that broke off.

PS i have access to a 7bolt block, but is it true that the 6bolt head will not fit the 7bolt block?