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2.4l turbo selection

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What? MUCH Slower spool. bolton divided, t3 t4 all of them.

And about the same performance for a comparable turbo of the same frame size. More money for the o2 housing and for the turbo itself. Not a good deal.

The only difference is that FP has sponsored the track "legends". Hense the big talk of how many dozen guys at XXX mph with FPYYYY turbo. I'm sure any one can make 650whp with a BOLTON hx40 that spools to 20+ psi by 4K. Since a great guy, but a typical guy who has no secrets with no 'race team' and no monitary profit has done it. Who cares about 800whp potential when the OP wants a 600whp turbo and the spool speed of a more affordable brand of the same reliability is about 1000rpms sooner:p.

If you don't care about spool speed, be pleasantly suprised and get an hx40 with the 60mm compressor wheel and the .70 a/r t3 bep turbine housing (as mentioned). The smaller .55 a/r housing is the unit that has done 650+ whp, while at the same time showing the same powerband as the gt3076r (fp3052/gt30r).

Yeah, way to "school" me there...

The OP asked for options you sarcastic arrogant ass. Why the hell are you jumping down my throat? The OP asked for options, I gave him options and information to back them up. I know that you have always been a Borgwarner/Holset sackrider and LOVE to jump down people's throats when they offer anything otherwise. I may have never had any experience with Borgwarner or Holset turbos, hence the reason I didn't give any advice on them. However, I did give him advice on turbos I have had good personal experience.

I offered such turbos like the HTA86 because it will meet his needs easily and give him the ability to step up later. You've been around a long time, you know damn good and well that almost everyone says that they'll be happy with "x" hp or "x" mph, but as soon as they get it, a bug gets them and they want more. I never said my options were the cheapest options, I only said that they were proven options and were capable of meeting his goals and beyond. And, in my comparisons, I was only comparing the different turbos that I had offered. I wasn't comparing them to your precious Borgwarner and Holset turbos.

You're arrogant and sarcastic response is one of the main reasons that people don't like posting their opinions on this site. DSMTuners is notorious this and it's people like you that give this site that reputation. I did not one thing wrong posting my opinion and you jump down my throat. Way to go. I hope you feel like a big man. I think it's just your head.

You're a wiseman. Why don't you grow up and act like it and represent DSMTuners like you're supposed to.

I apologize to the OP for this post, but I feel it was necessary.
 
Im going to say that on a lot of threads that talk about turbos, once anyone asks for a turbo recommendation and someone says anything other than Holset they get jumped on. I feel that there are probably ten turbos at least that will meet each desired power level. Some may spool better, some may be at their max or just getting warmed up, some may cost more than others. It is known that holsets are durable and plenty capable of a wide range of power with decent spool. They are definitely not the only options though when it comes to cars desiring 300-1000whp.
 
SonySlave, as you already new this since you said you did, he never asked your opinion on the turbos you've discussed. Feel free to post any information you want answering his question:

4. No getting off-topic - if you're not replying to the thread starter's original post, take it to PMs/email or start a new thread.

I could have said this first. So I apologize for not initially repying in this manner. Enjoy what ever turbo you wish! Let the thread starter know any information you have to answer his questions.

The s362 is probably the closest comparable BW turbo to the hx40 pro. It's a choice of what you want now and later. The 40 pro is about maxed out at 700whp. Along with the s362. The s366 should give you around 80-100 hp more potential. Now, I'm not sure if the s3** seriese can be had in bolton form. If this is a concern, I'd take that into consideration and call BEP. The s258 compressor seams to be on par with the hx40 pro compressor. Perhaps flowing inbetween the pro and standard 8blade 58mm hx40 compressor. I'm not sure about the large s258 turbine wheel. I most certainly would go with the larger turbine wheel, but I don't know how much a bolton housing would choke that particular turbine wheel.

The hx40pro in the bolton housing will allow you to easily achieve your 1/4 goal.

A straight answer to the hx40 t3 or bolton question is: the bolton housing spools faster but has done 650+ whp at 40psi; the .70 a/r BEP t3 housing will give you such results at a lower boost and about 400rpms later spool speed. Some hx40s come with a t3 16cm^2 twinscroll turbine housing. So I didn't know to which housing you were refering. A stroker has been known to speed spool about 500rpms sooner. So you'll get the same spool speed as us 2.0L guys with the bolton housing with a .70 a/r T3 housing. I still don't know if this answers your question because of the different t3 options. You can even have a t3 boltpattern holset 14cm^2 turbine housing cut to fit the hx40 turbine wheel. You can run a divided runner manifold or an open design. . . Many different results, many different spool speeds.
 
I run an S258 on my 2.4... the only thing I'd probably change is from a Bolt on turbine housing to a T3. Other than that I achieve 30psi @ 4000 RPMs and rap it out until 8K.

If I didn't completely destroy my brand new clutch @ this power level - I would of had more accurate times... Plan is for 35+ PSI on E85 on the new PTT twin disc.

BW Turbos are incredible. No compressor surge @ any throttle position, all they want to do is push more and more boost. I've never been more satisfied with a turbo - I've had experience will many of the others, including HX's, Garrett's, etc. BW are rebuildable, very streetable, practically indestructible, cheaper than many, and have amazing power capabilities.

PM me if you want some pricing options on BWs.
 
I run an S258 on my 2.4... the only thing I'd probably change is from a Bolt on turbine housing to a T3. Other than that I achieve 30psi @ 4000 RPMs and rap it out until 8K.

If I didn't completely destroy my brand new clutch @ this power level - I would of had more accurate times... Plan is for 35+ PSI on E85 on the new PTT twin disc.

BW Turbos are incredible. No compressor surge @ any throttle position, all they want to do is push more and more boost. I've never been more satisfied with a turbo - I've had experience will many of the others, including HX's, Garrett's, etc. BW are rebuildable, very streetable, practically indestructible, cheaper than many, and have amazing power capabilities.

PM me if you want some pricing options on BWs.

this is what im leaning towards. either the s258 or the 362 both ETT. still dont know if a 2600 with a 6puck will be enough or i should go with a twin disc....
 
It may be time for a twin disc because i dont see a 2600 lasting too long at this power level.
I wouldn't say youre going with a BW turbo too loud, this thread may never end if the holset people see it
 
thats what im thinking also. i keep getting mixed reviews though about how one person is fine with a 2600 and the other isn't. the other thing that keeps bugging me is my STOCK transmission. i do not have the money to have it built up, but i will probably put a 4spider in there. do you guys think that will HELP hold the trans together until i do eventually rebuild it?
 
s258 is great! Again I'd run the larger turbine wheel. And use the .70 a/r turbine housing, more power at lower boost.

The center diff is usually the first thing to go. Several have hit the low 11sec mark with a stock transmission and stock weight. You can do weight reduction to help the transmission survive, which is pretty much free.
 
this is what im leaning towards. either the s258 or the 362 both ETT. still dont know if a 2600 with a 6puck will be enough or i should go with a twin disc....

I had a full face street disc - it didn't like the new power @ all. I 6puck will last a little longer, but you'll probably be going through discs every 15-20 passes or so. Just my estimation. My street disc (rated @ 400ft-lbs) lasted about 10 passes. A 6 puck (500ish ft-lbs rated) might hold up longer.

Surprisingly, I'm on the stock transmission at near stock weight. My clutch has gone before my trans has - but I'm not very hard on transmissions. The reason I went with the new Twin Disc is because I'm experiencing clutch drag issues @ 7-8000rpms. It doesn't like to shift that high, grinds a little, or won't go into gear. The twin disc will hold the power, won't drag, and will be easier on the trans. Not to mention should last longer than a few passes.

@ 20psi I ran my 12.1 quarter on pump gas. It would have been 11's if I could actually get the clutch to quit dragging.

Now, before the clutch started slipping (new power issue), 30psi felt like night and day. Added timing, etc with E85 is like running cheap race fuel all the time. The new plan is to push it to 35ish PSI and a little more aggressive timing - until I see knock, which is nonexistent @ this point... and see if this Almost Full weight Street car is 10 second capable on a 63-lbs/min turbo with a tiny .55 a/r housing.

If I did it over again, it'd be a S362 w/ a T3 housing somewhere in the 70 a/r fashion. The efficiency would be amazing. a 2.4 is like a super air pump. 280 Cams are fun too.

Good luck with your build! PM me if you'd like some parts/pricing options.
 
I had a full face street disc - it didn't like the new power @ all. I 6puck will last a little longer, but you'll probably be going through discs every 15-20 passes or so. Just my estimation. My street disc (rated @ 400ft-lbs) lasted about 10 passes. A 6 puck (500ish ft-lbs rated) might hold up longer.

Surprisingly, I'm on the stock transmission at near stock weight. My clutch has gone before my trans has - but I'm not very hard on transmissions. The reason I went with the new Twin Disc is because I'm experiencing clutch drag issues @ 7-8000rpms. It doesn't like to shift that high, grinds a little, or won't go into gear. The twin disc will hold the power, won't drag, and will be easier on the trans. Not to mention should last longer than a few passes.

@ 20psi I ran my 12.1 quarter on pump gas. It would have been 11's if I could actually get the clutch to quit dragging.

Now, before the clutch started slipping (new power issue), 30psi felt like night and day. Added timing, etc with E85 is like running cheap race fuel all the time. The new plan is to push it to 35ish PSI and a little more aggressive timing - until I see knock, which is nonexistent @ this point... and see if this Almost Full weight Street car is 10 second capable on a 63-lbs/min turbo with a tiny .55 a/r housing.

If I did it over again, it'd be a S362 w/ a T3 housing somewhere in the 70 a/r fashion. The efficiency would be amazing. a 2.4 is like a super air pump. 280 Cams are fun too.

Good luck with your build! PM me if you'd like some parts/pricing options.

I guess I'm different, If I was running a 2.4 I would undoubtedly run a full t4... take advantage of that extra displacement.
 
I guess I'm different, If I was running a 2.4 I would undoubtedly run a full t4... take advantage of that extra displacement.


I guess I wanted more drive-ability. Yeah it's fun when a turbo comes on like a freight train, but what about road racing or trying to power out of a corner. if you're in 1st or 2nd gear it just slides the car because it's making so much power in that range. I guess it takes the fun away in anything other than brute force.


I'd like to keep some power below 5000. I get full spool (30+psi) @ about 4000. That's a fun 4000RPMS before redline... not just 3000 or less. I guess it really depends on what you want your setup for. I was thinking about going with an even smaller turbo for road race.. but The suspension needs a whole lot more work first. I guess I'm getting a little tired of the straight line stuff. I'll build a full RWD race car one day for drag. AWD is fun in turns.
 
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